1996 mustang gt e-brake cable woes - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011 Thread Starter
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1996 mustang gt e-brake cable woes

I rebuilt the whole rear brake system with the exception of the emergency brake cables. I can get the e-brake cable in one side, but for the life of me I can not get the cable in the second side no matter what. I have compressed the one side and had my wife help me with the other to no ado.

Do I need to relieve tension somewhere perhaps at the tension wheel? or is there an adjuster somewhere that can buy me like 1" of slack or is there some mind to the madness with this dang thing?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011
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interesting problem. I haven't ever had that problem. after getting one side looped into place, I just grab some pliers put them on the zinc ball at the end of the cable and pull. That has always given me enough "slack" on the other side to get it put in place.

Your manual brake cable handle isn't engaged is it?
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011
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Make sure the ratchet mechanism is released. The inside end of the cable, when attached to the small wheel should be at the bottom (of the wheel). DO NOT LET THE SPRING LOSE TENSION.
Make sure they release completely when the e-brake is released.
I just got my 96 GT on the road, and found that all new brake parts seemed to settle in after a couple miles.

I need to add this to my sig...96 GT coupe...leather, auto, mach 1 sound, underdrive pullies, K&N, 3.08's, pretty much factory, KM paint...moonlight blue I believe 147,000,daily driver. That is until I get some gas mileage figures...my 95 3.8 can give me figures of 28 MPG if I'm a good boy. (220,000 mi.)

Bruce

1995 coupe, 5-speed, bright blue, black & grey interior, home made rear seat delete for the pooch, 180 degree thermostat, Billet quadrant, adjustable clutch cable, firewall cable adjuster, billet headlight knob, Cobra shift knob, Energy Suspension front sway bar bushings, plug and
play OEM fog lights and switch.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011 Thread Starter
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cable tension

no, the e-brake handle is all the way down. I haven't taken the center console off to look at the guts of the whole deal though. I was hoping there was an adjuster that i could loosen a little bit. three of us could not get it in the second side with the other side pushed in slightly.

If I lock the tension wheel under the center console will that help my cause at the back?

1996 Mustang GT - 260k miles, Pacific Green, BBK Underdrive, BBK offroad, FRP Shorty headers, Flowmaster mufflers with stainless tips, Bilstein shocks struts, Motorsport H springs, Urethane bushings, Subframe Conn, Cobra R rims, Cobra R 4" cowl hood, BBK TB, K&N filter, Superchips custom, Aluminum DS, Motorsport 3.55, Pro 5.0, Cobra shift knob, FRP Injectors, MSD Coil Packs, Drilled R
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011
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Okay, I found it in a manual. Give me a minute to write it up.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011
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So here is the deal.

Make sure the parking brake is released.

Get inside your vehicle. Have an assistant under the vehicle pull the parking brake equalizer to the rear about 2-1/2 inches to rotate the self-adjusting reel counterclockwise.

Insert a steel gage pin or drill bit through the hole in the parking brake lever, the lever base assembly and the adjustment reel

CAUTION Do NOT remove the gage pin or drill bit until the parking brake cable has been reinstalled. If you do, the spring-loaded adjuster reel will unwind and the entire parking brake lever assembly will have to be removed in order to rewind the adjuster mechanism.

In reference to where the gage pin goes. It is located at the base of the parking brake arm very close to where the reel is attached to the lever. It's looks to be a small hole in the lever that's about 1/8th inch or so in diameter.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011 Thread Starter
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got it

I finished it this afternoon. went sort of like that. I pulled the center console. from the passenger side I pulled the ratcheting pawl to the disengage position, and then I rotated the pulley wheel to the right then I clamped the edge of the pulley to the mount boss with some needle nose channel locks. a pin would not go through with minimal pulling as I did. (I was alone - no helper) the wheel tension is unbelievable!!! my cable must not have been stretched much if any after all these years... amazing! anyways, One inch of play and both rear cables hooked up easily.
thanks!


I

1996 Mustang GT - 260k miles, Pacific Green, BBK Underdrive, BBK offroad, FRP Shorty headers, Flowmaster mufflers with stainless tips, Bilstein shocks struts, Motorsport H springs, Urethane bushings, Subframe Conn, Cobra R rims, Cobra R 4" cowl hood, BBK TB, K&N filter, Superchips custom, Aluminum DS, Motorsport 3.55, Pro 5.0, Cobra shift knob, FRP Injectors, MSD Coil Packs, Drilled R
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flight risk View Post
I finished it this afternoon. went sort of like that. I pulled the center console. from the passenger side I pulled the ratcheting pawl to the disengage position, and then I rotated the pulley wheel to the right then I clamped the edge of the pulley to the mount boss with some needle nose channel locks. a pin would not go through with minimal pulling as I did. (I was alone - no helper) the wheel tension is unbelievable!!! my cable must not have been stretched much if any after all these years... amazing! anyways, One inch of play and both rear cables hooked up easily.
thanks!


I
Thank you for coming back and reporting the results and solution.....It has become very rare.

Good Job!
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