the car ran excellent when all was replaced the battery im guessing was junk because it was running fine then shut it off turned it back on there was nothing the post i did is exactly what happened sorry i didnt think it was confusing im a women sorry i guess the next step is too check fuses and what ever else you people suggested im new to nc soo i dont know any good mechanics i just no he wasnt the answer he couldnt find nothing wrong with it!!!!!
Just wondering, do you plan on doing the work yourself? As a reminder this is the tech section.
Also note that the quality of the help you get is largely affected by the quality of the information that you provide.
Garbage in = Garbage out. 1996+ Crank with no start check list.
Check all fuses under the hood (BJB=panel F1) and driver's kick panel (CJB=Panel F2). Check the trunk mounted IFS cut off switch. 1999-2004 BJB CJB fuse panel layout: https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...1.html#2669271
Check the Grounds around the radiator core support. Are they clean and tight? Perform a through visual inspection of the visible ground connectors that are almost always black wires or black with a white stripe.
Pay special attention to the PCM/CCRM ground which is a large black wire with a white stripe. From the radiator core support it travels around the battery to a round single pin connector. Confirm that this ground hasn't become disconnected. Note, very possible to accidentally disconnect during a battery replacement.
Check the battery and battery terminals. Are they clean and tight? Pay special attention to the battery negative as it's bad about splitting when over tightened. Is the battery fully charged?
It's always a good idea to confirm that the alternator is good. A bad alternator diode will cause excessive AC ripple that will "cause" other symptoms. Almost all auto parts stores will do alternator tests for free.
Bottom line. Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Do not cut corners here!
More information on Howto perform charging system voltage drop tests. https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-drop-test.56/
Confirm that the fuel pressure regulator/sensor intake vacuum reference line is connected and leak free. Inspect the line for raw gas. If any is found, repair/replace.
If you have access to an ODB2 scanner/reader, check to see if the PCM will "talk". If so, this will confirm that the PCM is getting power and functioning at some level. Note, IF the PCM is not getting power, this will CAUSE
an apparent PATS problem.
For the 1999+ model year if the cluster is displaying all dashes ("------") this is a sure sign that either the PCM is not getting power, PCM has lost programming, or the PCM is bad. STOP and find out why.
Unlock the driver's door with the key. Use the remote key FOB to lock and unlock the car. On some systems, this will reset PATS after a battery disconnect.
Turn the key on/pause/off several times but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds. A helper may make this easier. If the fuel pump never runs, STOP and find out why.
Turn the key on but do not crank. Confirm that the theft light goes off after a 3 second "prove out". If not, STOP and find out why.
*NOTE: sometimes the PATS system can be affected by large metal objects on the key ring. When a possible PATS issues is suspected, try again with JUST the key. Even better try with a different key.
*NOTE: If PATS has been disabled via a custom tune, then the theft light will still blink as if tripped but the motor will start anyway.
Does the theft light blink or on solid during cranking? If so, STOP and find out why.
Pay close attention to the check engine light during cranking. It should go out during cranking indicating that the PCM is receiving a CKP signal. Does the check engine light STAY ON SOLID
during cranking? IF so suspect a missing CKP sensor signal or other basic crank shaft sensor issue. STOP and find out why.
Hold the throttle half way open during cranking. What changes?
Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Does it start now?
Will the motor start or "hit" on a small amount of starting fluid? Note be careful using starting fluid on a modern fuel injected car!!
If you follow all of the steps and post the results likely you will get much better response than the 1st time.
PS if you honestly didn't think that the opening post wasn't confusing, then this offers further proof that Men are from Mars and Women are from Venus.
More information on an affordable full featured ODB2 scanner: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...elm327-usb.57/
Note: if you have access to an ODB2 scanner check to see that the values as reported by the PCM are "reasonable".
- MAF flow. Should change during cranking.
- RPM's should change during cranking. If they do not, suspect a problem with the CKP sensor.
- Input Air Temperature (IAT). An open circuit IAT will often read -40 degrees. This can create a hard/no start condition.
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT). The ECT should read close to IAT on a stone cold motor.
- Fuel pressure (FRPS) for 1999+