I've noticed that during my last 3 oils changes, I have about 3 quarts of oil that drain out of the engine. I don't see any leaks on the engine, and there are no spots on the driveway. My only thoughts are that I am burning the oil through my engine. Even though there is no white smoke. Between my last 2 oil changes, I was checking the oil every few weeks and the lowest it looked to me was 1/2 way in the hashed marks in the dipstick. Then at the oil change, about 3 quarts came out.
I am religious about changing my oil every 3,000 miles and only have 39,000 miles on the car. I am working towards supercharging the engine and obviously don't want to hurt anything. A friend of mine recommended an engine flush, but after reading horror stories about others blowing the engine or throwing a rod afterwards has scared me. Is there anything that I should look for or can do about this?
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Matt
1999 35th Anniv GT Coupe - 226 RWHP (Bone Stock)
GRC Subframe Connectors, Bassani CAT-back, Eibach Sportline Springs, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Caster Camber Plates, Tri-AX Shifter
The difference between 5 quarts and 3 quarts is obviously a big one. You don't say what the stick reads at oil change, only in the weeks before...What does the stick read when you positively add 5 new quarts? Is the stick seated fully?
Are you patient enough to let the engine cool down and drip dry when discharging the used oil?
Don't forget the capacity of the oil filter. It's contents needs to be taken into account when you are attempting to measure used oil. Betcha it holds near a quart itself. 3 plus 1 is four.
If your stick is fully seated when checked, and it reads about 1/2 quart low at change time, I would not be concerned...yet. Keep an eye on the situation, however.
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daughter owns '00 GT, bone stock, black on black, rag top
It's hard to read that clean oil on the stick after I put a known 5 qts in. But it looks to read about 3/4 of the hash marks. I would take this 1/4 qt low. I hadn't thought about reading the stick right before the oil change. And yes, the stick is fully seated in. I read it 2 - 3 times just to make sure. I do let the engine warm up for a couple of minutes. All while I am getting it up the ramps so I can crawl under it. No more than 4 minutes of run time, otherwise I'd be burning my hands. I let the oil get to a slow drip, but I don't let it sit for more than 5 - 10 minutes. There isn't much coming out after the oil gets to the dripping stage.
I figured about 1 qt is in the filter. I do tip the filter over and drain out what ever wants to come out. I then pour everything into an old gallon sized milk container. It only fills up 3/4 of the way, which I would guess to be about 3 qts. The odd thing, I put the containers of the last two changes side by side and they are dead on equal in the amount of oil in them.
Sean Hyland Motorsport has an oil breather separator that they recommend with supercharged engines. Anyone recommend this or is this a gimmick?
It sounds to me that most of the oil is staying in the engine when you do your changes because the oil is still cold when you drain it. You said that you idle the engine for only 2 to 4 minutes before draining it. The exhaust system gets hot but the engine and its fluids are not up to operating temperature. You should drive it atleast 5 miles to get the engine and its fluids up to operating temperature before you drain it - more miles in colder climates/temperatures. Also don't forget the oil that stays in the oil filter. According to my owner's manual the 4.6 takes 6 quarts with filter. If the car is up on ramps with the nose in the air, it is possible that the cold oil is trapped at the rear of the cam covers and isn't draining back into the pan. Try driving the car 5 to 10 miles and draining it on a flat and level surface. I'll bet that you will get more oil out of it than with the method that you are using now. Also oil smoke is blue. White smoke is condensing water vapor which is a by product of combustion. Pull some plugs and look at them. If you are burning oil the plugs will be wet and covered with black soot and carbon. You can get a buddy to follow you when you punch it and then left off. If there is no blue smoke you probably aren't burming oil. I really think that your problem is that the engine isn't up to operating temperature when you drain the oil.
Thanks for the tips. My car is pretty much flat when I change the oil. I back into my garage and put the ramps down the driveway a bit so as I pull out of the garage the nose stays about the same height. I've lowered the car so getting under it on a flat surface is pretty difficult without the use of a lift.
Looking at the PDF version of the owners manual, it lists 5 quarts. No mention of an extra quart for the filter. I do remember that from auto shop though. I'll have to check the manual in the car.
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Matt
1999 35th Anniv GT Coupe - 226 RWHP (Bone Stock)
GRC Subframe Connectors, Bassani CAT-back, Eibach Sportline Springs, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Caster Camber Plates, Tri-AX Shifter
There is a difference between dry capacity and wet capacity. Dry capacity is just that, a dry engine. Believe it or not, if you were to pull the drain plug, you'd never get all the oil out of the pan, even if it sets for a year. Get that nose in the air if you wanna get more used oil outa the pan. You are not emptying the pan....
And then, NEVER overfill your crank. When the auto is level, only fill to the dip stick full mark. Factory correct dip stick... Regardless of what the literature says, fill to the factory marks on the stick.
When was the last time (if ever) the PCV valve was replaced? If this valve is malfunctioning, stuck open, then you could be sucking oil outa the crank. I lost a slant six this way, years ago. Since then, I rattle the PCV valve every oil change. It is also a very inexpensive replacement part for most engines. Get in the habit of replacing it annually, or risk pre-mature, unwarned failure.
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daughter owns '00 GT, bone stock, black on black, rag top
When was the last time (if ever) the PCV valve was replaced? If this valve is malfunctioning, stuck open, then you could be sucking oil outa the crank. I lost a slant six this way, years ago. Since then, I rattle the PCV valve every oil change. It is also a very inexpensive replacement part for most engines. Get in the habit of replacing it annually, or risk pre-mature, unwarned failure.
My father in-law is an ex-mechanic and pretty much said the same thing. But his recommendation was to replace it every 30,000 miles. I assume if you rattle the valve, that it should make noise? If it was silent, then its safe to assume it's faulty and it should be replaced?
BTW, I read the owners manual from the car and it states "5 qts (including changing the filter)"
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Matt
1999 35th Anniv GT Coupe - 226 RWHP (Bone Stock)
GRC Subframe Connectors, Bassani CAT-back, Eibach Sportline Springs, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Caster Camber Plates, Tri-AX Shifter
Tanks, I did not want to sound presumptuous and quote from the manual. Sounds right 5 qts including filter capacity.
Have we added an oil cooler? That will increase capacity.
Yes, the correct test is to rattle the PCV valve. And, 30k could be a more economical replacement time...IF....there is nothing wrong with the PCV valve. For under $10, I can afford to replace it each year, then I don't have to worry about it failing mid-year.
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daughter owns '00 GT, bone stock, black on black, rag top
By chance do you get in the habit of using the engine to brake the car. You know downshifting and letting it coast down with your foot off the gas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by qwkstang97
If you do that is more than likely where you oil consumption is. When you do that it will suck oil up past the rings.
I always downshift. It's habit. But I don't see how oil would get past the rings during the downshift and not during regular up shifting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiat Freak
Have we added an oil cooler? That will increase capacity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiat Freak
Yes, the correct test is to rattle the PCV valve. And, 30k could be a more economical replacement time...IF....there is nothing wrong with the PCV valve. For under $10, I can afford to replace it each year, then I don't have to worry about it failing mid-year.
No oil cooler. And since I've never replaced the valve, would you recommend going to Ford and getting it, or a local Pep Boys? Also it's probably pretty easy and self explanatory to replace, but where is it on the engine? Right or left valve cover or somewhere else? My 66' Mustang has it near the back of the valve cover and I don't know if things had changed in the 35 year difference.
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Matt
1999 35th Anniv GT Coupe - 226 RWHP (Bone Stock)
GRC Subframe Connectors, Bassani CAT-back, Eibach Sportline Springs, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Caster Camber Plates, Tri-AX Shifter
When you engine brake the throttle blade is closed and it is still trying to pull air into the cylinders. It will pull air from the crankcase by the rings and that air brings oil with it. Stop engine braking and the consumption will be less.
The position of the PCV valve differs, depending on your engine. However, needing fresh air to operate properly, it should have some source of filtered fresh air (usually from the air cleaner). Typically, you can follow one of these hoses from the air intake system to the PCV valve.
On 3.8 & 4.6 SOHC engines, the PCV valve is located on the passenger side valve cover. On 4.6 DOHC engines, the PCV valve is located on the driver's side valve cover. On 5.0 engines, the PCV valve is located on the rear of the lower intake manifold.
No manual or self-help book I've ever read recommends changing these valves as often as I do. However, at least to me, loosing an engine due to a faulty $3.00 part is a big deal. Therefore, I change this valve regularly. There is no test to see if it is going to fail soon, and usually operates just fine until it craps out and sucks out all of the oil from your crank. Anyone who is experiencing mysterious oil shortages should immediately suspect this valve.
If you need OEM parts in your ride, or are a FOMOCO/Motorcraft fanatic, then by all means see your local Ford dealer for this and other parts. Advice is usually not free here, unless the counterman has had a good day, or is bored. It is counter-productive for Ford Service to advise do-it-yourselfers on how to install their parts, especially those who are first time, or rare customers.
If you're gonna be doin' all your own maintenance, oil changes, and asking for advice; get to know your local Auto Zone or Pep Boys counter man. Typically, he's a wrench head just like you; and he loves to spout off about what he knows about cars that you don't. Typically, the parts he sells are manufactured by name brand companies, and re-packaged to store brand containers. They also carry most of the name brand parts.
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daughter owns '00 GT, bone stock, black on black, rag top
Oil burning question 
