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Unread 10-04-2012   #1 (permalink)
DJAlsip is online now GT Member

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Default Fuel Pump not Priming

Hey guys, it's been a while! As some of you know, I recently moved back to Norway. I left my Mustang standing in the garage at our house here, and now, four months later, I'm back here on vacation. My goal was to sell my Mustang within the time period we're here, as we might be selling our house, resulting in me not having anywhere to store my Mustang.

Before I start; we have checked all the fuses and relays, they all work fine. We have also checked the fuel pump inertia switch, which is good to go.

The battery is almost dead, but I have tried jump starting my car to get it running. The battery is charging, and the car turns over, but it doesn't fire. The first tries it did fire at an uneven rate, which has turned out to only be leftover fuel in the fuel lines. There is fuel in the tank; however, it has been under half full. We have tried starting the car by spraying some starter spray into the intake, with the success that the engine fired up, but shut right down. Now we know that the spark plugs are good, so we unhooked one of the fuel injectors and tested the voltage, and they are getting power. We proceeded to unhook the main fuel line going into the fuel rails as we were getting more and more certain that the engine is not getting any fuel at all. Not even a single drop came out of the line.

My father and I have researched some, and we have concluded that either the fuel pump is bad, or either the FPDM (Fuel Pump Drive Module) or Fuel Pump Relay (which is part of the CCRM). Tomorrow I will test the different wires with a multimeter to see if the fuel pump and FPDM get's any power at all.

Now, my question is, what do you guys think? Replacing the fuel pump will be on h*ll of a job to do, especially now that I am here on vacation, and there is no way in h*ll that I am paying someone to do it for me either. I am hoping it's either a bad FPDM or a problem with the CCRM, which would be the easier to fix of the three. Has anybody else had any similar problems? Does anyone have some good instructions on how to lower the gas tank to remove and replace the fuel pump? I know roughly how to do it, but some good instructions would help speed up the process.

Thank you guys, and sorry for the long post, I just like to be thorough.
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Unread 10-04-2012   #2 (permalink)
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When you turn the key before starting do you hear the pump hum? If not then the pump is either not getting power or it is bad. Dropping the tank isn't bad I personally think the quick disconnect fittings are more of a pain then anything unless you have a bunch of gas in the tank. If so then you gotta worry about it sloshing out of the fill neck hole. Also if you drop the tank buy a new filler neck grommet from latemodel or somewhere else. I would find out if the pump is getting power or even working first. If you have to drop the tank it's honestly not that bad. I dropped mine to put a walbro 255lph pump in and it took a little modifying and still wasn't a problem.
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Unread 10-05-2012   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordman777 View Post
When you turn the key before starting do you hear the pump hum? If not then the pump is either not getting power or it is bad. Dropping the tank isn't bad I personally think the quick disconnect fittings are more of a pain then anything unless you have a bunch of gas in the tank. If so then you gotta worry about it sloshing out of the fill neck hole. Also if you drop the tank buy a new filler neck grommet from latemodel or somewhere else. I would find out if the pump is getting power or even working first. If you have to drop the tank it's honestly not that bad. I dropped mine to put a walbro 255lph pump in and it took a little modifying and still wasn't a problem.
Thanks for the reply.

I have around a gallon or so in the tank right now. I don't hear the pump humming when I turn on the ignition, so it's not priming like it should. I really just hope it's an electrical problem. I don't have time to order parts and wait for them to arrive. I need to get it sold within 11 days, and I need something I'll be able to fix ASAP. I really don't have any money to spend either, which doesn't make things easier for me. I wish I could keep the car, but I'll have nowhere to keep it if we end up selling the house.
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2003 Mustang GT
Exhaust: Mac O/R H-Pipe, Stock Catback.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Lowering Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit.
Styling: Mach 1 Chin Spoiler & Grille Delete Kit, Spec-D Halo Projector Headlights, Sequential Tail Lights, 8" Black Antenna.
Audio: Pioneer DEH-X8500BH Receiver, Kicker CS68 Speakers (4x 225w).
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Unread 10-05-2012   #4 (permalink)
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I know it's possible, but I just find it hard to believe that the fuel pump is the one part to go bad after less than 4 months in non-operation. A gummed up fuel filter, injectors with bad fuel restricting flow, or maybe a bad fuse would be more what I had expected. There are so many snow birds here that leave their cars (both old and new) for more than 6 months at a time without even disconnecting the battery, and they fire right up. It makes no sense to me right now. :/
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2003 Mustang GT
Exhaust: Mac O/R H-Pipe, Stock Catback.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Lowering Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit.
Styling: Mach 1 Chin Spoiler & Grille Delete Kit, Spec-D Halo Projector Headlights, Sequential Tail Lights, 8" Black Antenna.
Audio: Pioneer DEH-X8500BH Receiver, Kicker CS68 Speakers (4x 225w).
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Unread 10-05-2012   #5 (permalink)
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You said you checked the inertia switch.... Does that mean you confirmed voltage there or that the button is pushed in?
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Unread 10-05-2012   #6 (permalink)
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+1 above. If time is important, then don't guess, TEST.

Confirm there is +12 volts coming into the IFS switch with the key on. Be sure to make good contact with the tester.

If no voltage, the problem is a fuse, CCRM, ignition switch, or wiring.

IMO, FPDM don't fail nearly as often as ppl think. Before replacing a FPDM, run the fuel pump directly from 12 volts. There's a round plug right in the middle of the gas tank. It can be seen from below near the bumper. It's an easy spot to power the fuel pump directly and will rule out/in a bad fuel pump.

The wire colors are RD/BK and BN/PK.
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Unread 10-05-2012   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal2V View Post
You said you checked the inertia switch.... Does that mean you confirmed voltage there or that the button is pushed in?
At the time it was confirmed that it was pushed in. I have now tested both the inertia switch and the FPDM. Both work fine. The gas tank is dropped, tomorrow a friend and I are going out to look for a used fuel pump at some local junk yards. If all goes well, the pump will be installed and the car running again by tomorrow night.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
+1 above. If time is important, then don't guess, TEST.

Confirm there is +12 volts coming into the IFS switch with the key on. Be sure to make good contact with the tester.

If no voltage, the problem is a fuse, CCRM, ignition switch, or wiring.

IMO, FPDM don't fail nearly as often as ppl think. Before replacing a FPDM, run the fuel pump directly from 12 volts. There's a round plug right in the middle of the gas tank. It can be seen from below near the bumper. It's an easy spot to power the fuel pump directly and will rule out/in a bad fuel pump.

The wire colors are RD/BK and BN/PK.
Thank you for the information! I did some more research last night and stumbled upon some wiring diagrams for the CCRM, IFS, FPDM, and Fuel Pump. I got all the electronics tested, +12 volts on all the hot wires.
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2003 Mustang GT
Exhaust: Mac O/R H-Pipe, Stock Catback.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Lowering Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit.
Styling: Mach 1 Chin Spoiler & Grille Delete Kit, Spec-D Halo Projector Headlights, Sequential Tail Lights, 8" Black Antenna.
Audio: Pioneer DEH-X8500BH Receiver, Kicker CS68 Speakers (4x 225w).
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Unread 10-07-2012   #8 (permalink)
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Update:

I ended up just buying a new pump at AutoZone, rather than driving around for hours looking for a pump that might not even work. Put the brand new pump in, mounted the gas tank, jump-started the car, and it worked just fine! I primed it five or six times before I turned it on, just to build up the fuel pressure. Took it for a spin around the neighborhood, it run's like a new car! Thanks for the help and info guys, appreciate it. Now I'm off to sell my baby...
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2003 Mustang GT
Exhaust: Mac O/R H-Pipe, Stock Catback.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Lowering Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit.
Styling: Mach 1 Chin Spoiler & Grille Delete Kit, Spec-D Halo Projector Headlights, Sequential Tail Lights, 8" Black Antenna.
Audio: Pioneer DEH-X8500BH Receiver, Kicker CS68 Speakers (4x 225w).
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Unread 10-07-2012   #9 (permalink)
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That's really strange it would just quit from being parked a few months, but glad you got it figured out without much headache.
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Unread 10-07-2012   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal2V View Post
That's really strange it would just quit from being parked a few months, but glad you got it figured out without much headache.
That's why I was baffled, otherwise I would just have fixed it without posting this. About $240 I didn't want to spend, but oh well, better to sell a working car than to get nothing for it.
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2003 Mustang GT
Exhaust: Mac O/R H-Pipe, Stock Catback.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Lowering Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit.
Styling: Mach 1 Chin Spoiler & Grille Delete Kit, Spec-D Halo Projector Headlights, Sequential Tail Lights, 8" Black Antenna.
Audio: Pioneer DEH-X8500BH Receiver, Kicker CS68 Speakers (4x 225w).
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