Rear Main Seal replacement help! - Ford Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013 Thread Starter
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Rear Main Seal replacement help!

Hey guys, Here are a few pictures of when i put in a FEL-PRO rear main seal. Did I adjust it to the correct depth? I made it so that the front was flush with the crank surface. Also, outside of the original rear main seal, there was rust on the crank. Should I depth the new seal such that it is below the rust? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013 Thread Starter
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here are the pictures.
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03 GT Vert.
Mac Longtubes, o/r prochamber, Flows, K&N CAI
262HP 308 TQ

Plans for a 2013 someday
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013
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Keep It Clean

The seal should be flush with the block or until it seats. Why in hell did you not clean the crank exposed surface where the seal rides? Any rust or scale on the outer edge of the crank tends to tear at the new seal as the crank rotates in the block. Any time I replace a main oil seal I always clean the surface as best as possible,flush the area with brake clean and use a smear of RTV around the outside of the new seal. (INSURANCE AGAINST A LEAK) This job can be a pain in the ass and one you don't want to do over. You may be ok just make sure the seal is seated as far as it will go. If it were me and you are at this point I would replace the seal after cleaning the crank area. Good luck,Rascal.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013 Thread Starter
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thank you. i took that seal out and cleaned the edge of the crank. it would not ride where the rust is, but i cleaned it anyway because it did have to slide past it to get to its final resting place. this is quite the job. headers, a clutch and replacing everything around it. Hopefully it will all work when were done!

03 GT Vert.
Mac Longtubes, o/r prochamber, Flows, K&N CAI
262HP 308 TQ

Plans for a 2013 someday
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rascal View Post
The seal should be flush with the block or until it seats. Why in hell did you not clean the crank exposed surface where the seal rides? Any rust or scale on the outer edge of the crank tends to tear at the new seal as the crank rotates in the block. Any time I replace a main oil seal I always clean the surface as best as possible,flush the area with brake clean and use a smear of RTV around the outside of the new seal. (INSURANCE AGAINST A LEAK) This job can be a pain in the ass and one you don't want to do over. You may be ok just make sure the seal is seated as far as it will go. If it were me and you are at this point I would replace the seal after cleaning the crank area. Good luck,Rascal.

What he said.

And put a little oil on the inner diameter of the seal before installing it so it doesn't burn up on dry start.

The artist formerly known as SteedaMatt.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013
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Good stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eleanor39 View Post
thank you. i took that seal out and cleaned the edge of the crank. it would not ride where the rust is, but i cleaned it anyway because it did have to slide past it to get to its final resting place. this is quite the job. headers, a clutch and replacing everything around it. Hopefully it will all work when were done!

Stephen,You are welcome. And racin 366 is spot on. I negelected to add to lightly lube the inside of the seal.
Just a little advice, in the future if in doubt about replacing any engine seal always get the area as clean as possible you don't want a leak and it's no fun doing it over. I hope your car is back in action soon. Good Luck.
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