[enorbit3]

ok....heres the deal...i need the C/C plates to go with my SuperSport springs...i was thinking about getting the UPR kit, which is only 3 bolt. how much of a difference in the handling is there with the 3 bolt vs. the 4 bolt....here is the link to the UPR kit...
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=231

UPR also added the 4 bolt kit but i havent heard anything about this either...here is the link for that.. http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=725

i know that steeda and Maximum Motorsports are the best, but they are also pricier....I'm buyin the C/C plates pretty soon so any info is greatly appreciated....thanks in advance..

[tripleblack]

I have the Steeda 4-bolt items (aluminum), and am very pleased with them. They were not tough to install, although I had to massage the 4th hole a bit (drill) and have the car aligned afterwards, of course. I run the Steeda sport springs as well (superlite type), and they are wonders at introducing the right caster/camber settings. In all likelihood you don't really need the 4 bolt versions unless you're putting severe stress on your car. I chose the 4 bolters because I preferred their look and I drive a convt., which is not as rigid as a coupe and needs all the support it can get (I also use a strut brace from Steeda for that reason). Far as I can tell you get the same amount of adjustability with the 3 bolt versions, just not as strong and not any extra support. As for differences between the various manufacturers, my Steedas allow for a good amount of up and down adjustment (which allows me to raise or lower the front end about .6 inches or so).

Not familiar with the UPR items, but if money is the issue go with the 3 bolt. You might do some research into whether they can be adjusted like the Steeda and MM units. Maybe there's a reason why they cost less...

tripleblack

[Jakes]

3-bolt will work fine. The 4-bolt does add some strength if you feel you want it. The 4-bolt (steel not aluminum) is a must if you're going to coil-overs.

I don't know what Tripleblack is talking about when he says he can raise and lower the frt end with the CC plates. The CC plate adjustment is for tipping the top of the strut side-to-side (chamber) and forward & back (castor).

[tripleblack]

Originally Posted by Jakes

3-bolt will work fine. The 4-bolt does add some strength if you feel you want it. The 4-bolt (steel not aluminum) is a must if you're going to coil-overs.

I don't know what Tripleblack is talking about when he says he can raise and lower the frt end with the CC plates. The CC plate adjustment is for tipping the top of the strut side-to-side (chamber) and forward & back (castor).

"Strut height adjustable from 0.6" above to 0.3" below stock" - Steeda

The cc plates I use have steel bearing plate and allow for more adjustability (steeda claims "the most"). I just bolted them in per their spec sheet and turned it over to the alignment guys. Guess I'll now have to go check (if I can figure it out) what adjusting the strut height really does. Just assumed it could be used to fine tune the car. With their bumpsteer kit and springs, the car was so transformed I really haven't wanted to mess with a good thing...

tripleblack

[enorbit3]

thanks again for all the help guys....i really appreciate it, my car really needs these plates and an alignment.....think i might go for the Maximum Motorsports or the UPR pieces