BigB, the tensioner if its making any noise is worth replacing. I just assumed mine was normal ford belt noise like lots of the trucks have... til my wife took it for a drive and it seized up... much easier to replace it if its not covered in antifreeze and power steering fluid.. As to the rest of this topic, I just replaced my intake thinking that was the problem since intake had a crack leaking antifreeze(mine was never replaced for free by previous owner, so there went just shy of $500)....I have not taken it for a good drive to really test if the problem is still there, but on the short drive from the oil change place down the block it did not feel smooth.. I need to get a new battery as the old one got shot over the winter, not holding a charge. If I find any more trouble with this car I'm sadly gonna sell it...
My 97 mustang gt seems to die every time it rains or snows it will start and i can keep it alive with gas. a day or so later i can start it but it acts really bogged down for a bout a week could it be a cloged egr valve or maybe new coils?
I have a 2000 GT and i have been having a lot of problems with the rough idling and stalling before i put a aftermarket TB and upper plenum on...i bought a 75mm throttle body and an upper plenum and the problem got worse...i replaced the TPS, the IAC, PCV, and gaskets, still rough idle and stalling...so i got pissed and just took the aftermarket products off and put the stock back on...restarted the computer and it idled pretty good with the new TPS, IAC, and PCV...drove it all day and the rough idling came back, but it wasn't stalling...so i went to walmart and bought this product called Sea foam (red and white can about $8)...had my girlfriend start the car and i had a hose and funnel and pored the sea foam in a little at a time...don't freak out when your adding the sea foam and the engine starts revving up, its normal, if you add too much at a time your car will sound like its going to die, but just let it breath a minute...i put the whole can in and it smoked like crazy..pretty cool though..lol..i put the vacuum hose back on (if your looking at the engine its the far right one in front) and held 2000 rpm for about 30 secs to get the smoke out...turned the car off, disconnected the battery for about 20 mins...went outside and started it back up and it runs like a champ!! it still smokes because of the left over sea foam, but it runs really good now...so for you guys who were having problems like me and have tried almost everything besides taking it to a shop, try this and see if it helps you out like it did me, feed back if it helps or doesn't, just curious if it helps anyone else out
Could this problem be caused by the A/C Compressor clutch? My 99 GT has the irratic Idle and stumbling but I have found that it is only when the heater is set to one of the following A/C, Demist and Mix. In these setting the compressor is on and the clutch irratically engages and disengages (20 times / minute) does anybody no the cause? The car runs perfect when the heater is in the Vent, Floo or off position
That is normal. The compressor clutch is suppossed to cycle when the fan is set to defroster or AC.
Hi All - I've owned my 04 Mach for 5 years now. I'ts my daily driver and has ran perfectly since new, until recently. Nearing 60k miles, the clutch started giving me trouble. I purchased a RAM clutch kit and had it installed by a Mustang shop. The clutch seems to work great, but every since the mechanic returned the car it began stalling on me. It stalls only when I'm slowing down, clutching and down-shifting into second gear, and only with the AC on. I have replaced the IAC, the MAF sensor, the wiring harness on the transmission, plugs, and the rear O2 sensors. The mechanic says it has nothing to do with the clutch, but as a driver who is not a mechanic, I obviously want to blame it on the clutch since I didn't have problem before replacing it. There is no check engine light and no error codes. Simply frustrated....can't wait to have my Mach running like I know it should.
Just curious, is it normal for a 1999 Mustang GT to idle around 800 then rev up to around 1200 or so every 10 seconds? It's somewhat loud and have always wondered why my car would do this.
Ok I got just a 3.8 with a 5 speed but it idles rough and at times seems like it gots a miss. I have repleced the plugs two times and the wires once. It seems my rps take forever to drop back down. Is this the AIC sensor.
Also I have had my service engine light come on and had autozone check it and they told me a vacume leak. So I replaced the gas cap. No differance. Then I added some stp injector cleaner and heat in the tank the light went off. But after awhile it just comes bk on.
AWESOME thread took out my IAC and cleaned it didnt look to dirty but WOW what a difference in performance.Right after i reinstalled the IAC there was a really loud whirring or whistling noise but went away after driving ANY IDEAS ?????
Didn't read every post but I have a new build. Teksid block,. cams, 11.4:1 copmpression, headers, etc, Even an SVO intyake port matched top the PI heads. When warm the motor will sputter with light load and even thoiugh an auto a downshift fixes it but I would rather the computer and IAC do the job or can the cams just be too radical, 230*/234* on a 110*LSA and a 106* centerline?
I have been told I need a dyno tune but the car gets stored in 4 weeks and there is not a dyno with SCT tuniung within 150 miles of Syracuse, NY to my findings. Would a dyno really fix the drivability and add power, significant power over the email tune? THX!
I know this is an old message, but I was just wondering what YOUR fix was.. I have a 2000 GT Convertible, stick shift, which has been doing the same thing intermittently.. It wont idle right, most of the time it will stall without me holding the gas, although SOMETIMES I can get it to idle roughly by turning on the A/C, then some time into my trip, or idle, I'll hear a "pop" which either sounds like a mini backfire, or as you say, perhaps a stuck vacuum driven gate or something, and it smooths right out. Sometimes it'll do this when hot, and switch to "bad mode" while I'm driving, and ONE time, it was running fine, and I had been running it hard and fast on the highway and when I came to idle at a light finally, I found it was idling about 4000rpm.. BUT.. most of the time, it's just a slow rough idle when cold in the garage...
I had originally suspected that it was missing on one whole side of the engine or something, but it runs fine when given gas.. doesn't sound like it's missing...
Based on what I've read, I'm going to try the IAC cleaning first, but I was just curious what your situation was, since your car is basically identical, with identical issues...
Thanks!
-Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00blueGTvert
Have you guys heard these symptoms? I have the same problem with my 2000 GT. It runs as long as I give it gas, but dies the second I let off. One weird thing, I removed my air filter and drove it for a day, and it was fixed for few weeks. When I would start it, I would give it gas and then there was a small pop(?) that sounded like a vacuum gate closing or something(making that up mostly...) and then it ran fine, with the filter installed. Then a couple of days ago, it rained hard, and now is not working again, and removing the filter didn't work this time...?
Hey 172pilot, I would not purchase anything yet. I would check IAC, EGR, PCV, make sure they are working. Usually the egr gets stuck all you need to do is to take it apart and see if the opening is free if not get some kind of tool and push it in back use wd-40 or a cleaner to clean all the carbon build up. Same thing goes for the IAC. also see if there is any vacumm leak. Usually vacumm leaks will make rpms to get higher or low.
Hope this helps.
now can someone tell me where it is on a 4V motor 
the photos on this post are no longer thier. any help would be great
