I am just about ready to shop for some headers. But i have heard advatages of both. I don't have much knowledge about headers so any advice would be helpful. I have heard that short headers might be the best choice for me, because my goal is more acceleration.
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1997 Mustang Gt (woodward dream cruise edition), Auto,BBK Cold Air Intake, Strut Bar, X-Pipe, Flowmaster 40series mufflers, sideexhaust, BBK fuel press. reg,15inch JL Audio, Eclipse soundsystem, pioneer head unit, GPS,
Long tubes are the way to go if your heart is set on them. Beware, they're a huge PITA to install and expensive to have someone install for you. Also you have to get a new mid-pipe to go with them. It can get pretty pricey to do headers.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
SHorties have advatages over Longs... internet myth. If you are going to invest the time and trouble it takes to do a header install, do a complete long tube/h-pipe install and enjoy the extra power and better sound.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
Thanks for all your advice. I was wondering though, what is a good brand and the cost of professional installation? And does the fact that i have a x-pipe side exhaust with no cats effect anything? Thanks
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1997 Mustang Gt (woodward dream cruise edition), Auto,BBK Cold Air Intake, Strut Bar, X-Pipe, Flowmaster 40series mufflers, sideexhaust, BBK fuel press. reg,15inch JL Audio, Eclipse soundsystem, pioneer head unit, GPS,
It depends where you go. I found a pair of Hooker Competition ceramic coated longtube headers on ebay for $175 (which included $25 for shipping). On Summit racing they are selling for nearly $800. I guess I got really lucky but my car is not being driven for 5 months and they are sitting in the garage in Cali while im in Hawaii. I actually founf a plaxe that was going to install them for $275. You really have to ask around.
i have BBK and love them i would have gone with hooker but they were at least 200$ mroe expensive. the BBK sound and feel great on my acceleration and my hp gains were beautiful. MAC was 20-30lbs heavier so i didnt go with them. my fl headers are ceramic coated as well and the O2 emitor works just fine
Also with long tubes, its a pain in the butt when you have to do any type of tranny work, so if you are going to get a set of Longtubes, put in a new clutch kit aswell.
thats my 2Cents.
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-Felipe, 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed
Track Results = 13.53@102.4mph 1.97 60' on 245/45/17 Street Tires
|Cold Air Intake|MAC 70MM Throttle Body|C&L Plenum|MM CC Plates|SCT Xcal2|Steeda Triax|Ford 3.73 Gears|Steeda LCA|FRPP "C" Springs|Kenny Brown Subframe Connectors|MAC O/R H-Pipe|MAC Catback|Strange Engineering 10Way Struts|8K H.I.D. Kit|Spec2|Nitto 555r 315/35/17 |
Does the fact that i have an automatic transmission make it easier to do work on it once i have the headers installed? Once you have the headers intalled do you really feal an accleration difference?
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1997 Mustang Gt (woodward dream cruise edition), Auto,BBK Cold Air Intake, Strut Bar, X-Pipe, Flowmaster 40series mufflers, sideexhaust, BBK fuel press. reg,15inch JL Audio, Eclipse soundsystem, pioneer head unit, GPS,
i actually dont know about automatic but yes i did feel a difference especially because for my car shorty x pipe is a big hp gain and tq gain compared to the rest of the normal bolt ons i also recommend 4.10 gears or 4.33 since you have a automatic and they are all naturally geared higher then manuals. i had these 3.73's put in just recently (about 3 months ago) and love them and seriously dont see to much of a difference in mileage and rpms and am considering 4.10's
sorry i need to read correctly. never mind on clutch if you are auto.... have you considered a stall converter? u can launch similar to manual. if you go with a stall converter id stay with no more than 410s more streetable 373s, because if your stall rpm is 3500rpm its going to be a really hard launch unless you got some nice rubber.
either way if you go with stall, do it before LTs....
As for me performance gains vs price of LTs is not justified just yet for me.
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-Felipe, 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed
Track Results = 13.53@102.4mph 1.97 60' on 245/45/17 Street Tires
|Cold Air Intake|MAC 70MM Throttle Body|C&L Plenum|MM CC Plates|SCT Xcal2|Steeda Triax|Ford 3.73 Gears|Steeda LCA|FRPP "C" Springs|Kenny Brown Subframe Connectors|MAC O/R H-Pipe|MAC Catback|Strange Engineering 10Way Struts|8K H.I.D. Kit|Spec2|Nitto 555r 315/35/17 |
yeah i didnt even think of a stall converter but i dont think 4.10's would puch his rpms that high cause auto are natrually geared higher then manuels. there wasnt to much of difference jumping from stock 3.27 to 3.73's.
I just had my longtubes put in, and I like the sound... a little quieter then what I had previously.. but when you get into the higher rpms it just roars... most shops can do it in 8 hours or so... the longtubes really help if you go FI from my understanding...
Side exhaust? I dont know if you'll have to mess with it or not... I know i had to get a new mid pipe for mine...
Personally I would like to hear the "advantages" of shorties for a GT....
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2003 Redfire Cobra
Steig stg 3 port w/ported TB plenum
Steeda Intake w/sniper tune
Mac O/R H-pipe w/flowmaster catback
Steeda Tri-Ax 315/35-17 Nittos
2.93 Pulley w/Even Flow Head Cooling Mod
LFP Dual pass Heat Exchanger
Spec 3 clutch w/fidanza flywheel
Shory or Long Tube Headers 
