Its time to put a supercharger on my stang. I have chosen to buy a Procharger. What I was wondering is what psi is safe to run my factory 2003 GT Convertable. I'm not going to be getting on it all the time just every once in while. I was also wondering how hard it is to install. Any help would be nice.
8lbs. is what Procharger rates as safe boost on a stock 99-04 GT, however, many people are running 10-12 with success. Your tune makes all the difference, make sure to get it on a dyno. The install is fairly easy, just time consuming.
Would it be ok to drive the car to get dyno'd after installing the supercharger. I plan on doing the whole install myseft. I used to work on cars a while back. The only thing I'm worried about is intalling the fuel system upgrade.
Get it tuned before you put it on a dyno and have it abused. The last thing you want is to have it on a dyno, it gets pushed to see what peak numbers it will make and then something goes wrong because it wasnt tuned properly.
The Procharger kit should come with a generic tune, which should only be used to get it to the shop. The tuner will then attempt a baseline pull on the dyno while monitoring A/F and will back out if it leans out too much. The fuel system upgrade is not very difficult, the hardest part was dropping the tank. It's actually very easy, but that was my first time ever dropping a tank. Once the tank is down, its an easy plug and play swap.
The tune needs to be done on a dyno. Funky's description is exactly how it should go at a shop with a decent tune guy. If you see the A/F ratio lean out or hear pinging, yell at him to shut it down and throw some fuel in the tune and back off some timing until he can get a good solid baseline to improve on. The tune is the life or death of a forced induction motor unless you have forged internals, which you don't. Forged internals can take a bit more abuse, but they will still break under a crappy tune though.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
Hey bluestreak, what do you think a good boost level for me would be with a good tune. Everything in my sig, I should be at about 12psi once I get everything on.
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1998 GT Saleen replica
New forged internals w/cobra crank, TEA CNC ported heads w/ comp cams XE270AH, AccuFab throttlebody and plenum, Spec III clutch, TKO 600 trans, aluminum drive shaft, 3:73 gears, BBK long tube headers, 255lpm intank fuel pump, Dyno tuned, Polished Procharger D-1sc 12psi, 3 core intercooler. SVO hood and 18in Budnik wheels w/toyo tires. Caster/Camber plates BBK lowering springs. Car web page
Comp cams XE262AH,T-45 with tri-ax shifter for sale
I'm not quite so sure you're actually going to see 12 pounds with a '12psi' pulley with ported heads. That's not really a bad thing though. Boost pressure is a numerical representation of resistance to flow inside your engine. The less boost, less resistance, more flow, more power...see how that works. With forged internals, I think you would be safe up to about 15psi or so myself, it could be more though as long as the tune is safe.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
Well I thought that I would get 12 psi or get close because of the boost a pipe. I am going to run it with what ever psi I do get for a year to see how things work out but I do hope I will get 15-16 psi later.
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1998 GT Saleen replica
New forged internals w/cobra crank, TEA CNC ported heads w/ comp cams XE270AH, AccuFab throttlebody and plenum, Spec III clutch, TKO 600 trans, aluminum drive shaft, 3:73 gears, BBK long tube headers, 255lpm intank fuel pump, Dyno tuned, Polished Procharger D-1sc 12psi, 3 core intercooler. SVO hood and 18in Budnik wheels w/toyo tires. Caster/Camber plates BBK lowering springs. Car web page
Comp cams XE262AH,T-45 with tri-ax shifter for sale