Help! Car cutting out under load! - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-12-2002 Thread Starter
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Help! Car cutting out under load!

Alright, here goes. My car is cutting out under moderate load while driving. I just bolted my stock h-pipe back on and ran a fuel injection cleaning kit through it, and man it is running bad! It is cutting out so bad under acceleration, a Neon could smoke me! I'm wanting to think that it is the o2 sensors, but I could be wrong. If it is missing, it is not missing just sitting at idle and revving it. It only does it under load. If it is the o2's, woiuld the MIL eliminators eliminate this as well as take the "check engine" light off? Need some insight fast! Thanks!

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1996 Moonlight Blue Mustang GT
offroad h-pipe, 3 chamber flows, motorsport "c" springs, removed air silencer, '98 17" GT wheels, Clarion 12 disc changer, Viper 650 ESP
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-12-2002
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So the engine revs fine? its just when in motion?
does it feel like the transmission?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-13-2002 Thread Starter
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Well, it idles a little funny. It is a little funny under about 1700 rpm when you start to rev it, but after that it revs fine. I reset the computer last night, and took it out for about 30 mins. and it ran a little bit better, not to much. It had a loud high pitched ping also at over 4000 rpms. Now, I went out this morning, and it is doing the same thing again. The reseting of the computer did nothing for me. Here is what I am going to do today: 1.) Pull out hte plugs and see if any of them are fouled 2.) Check for any kind of vaccum leak 3.) Puit in a new PCV 4.) Kick it if none of the above works! lol. Really though, I don't understand what the problem is. Maybe the o2's, maybe the plugs, wires, coil pack, maybe the...? There was a slight cut out problem beforebefore the stock h-pipe was put back on, and after, but as soon as I did the Valvoline fuel injectin system cleaner, it ran horribly. I am wanting to think that it did something harmful, because it happened immediately after the service was done. What do you all think?

randy964.6
1996 Moonlight Blue Mustang GT
offroad h-pipe, 3 chamber flows, motorsport "c" springs, removed air silencer, '98 17" GT wheels, Clarion 12 disc changer, Viper 650 ESP
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-13-2002
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Maybe the air flow sensor. My sisters car was running really weak and she took it to the dealer and they replaced the air flow sensor and then it ran just fine.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-13-2002 Thread Starter
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Okay, here is the latest revelations. I hooked a scan tool up to it today and it gaveme two codes. 1.) o2 sensor, bank 1, sensor 1. 2.) Engine misfire on cylinder 8. So, I replaced the o2 sensor and reset the computer. I drove it around for a while, but no dice. It still cut out and missed and studdered and... Next, I pulled the plug and wire out of cylinder 8, and they were both good. I then took the fuel injector out of cylinder 8 and the holes did actually appear to be clogged, so I cleaned them out with brake cleaner and put it back in. Still, the car is running bad. I also did an ohm test on all of the fuel injectors on the drivers side bank and they tested out as follows: 5= 14.3, 6=14.2, 7=15.0, 8=14.5. This is still normal. It could still be the mechanical side of the injector, I guess. So I switched te number 7 and 8 injector so when I run the scanner on it tommorow, and it says I have a misfire on cylinder 7, I'll know what to replace. Anything else I can checi none of this works?

randy964.6
1996 Moonlight Blue Mustang GT
offroad h-pipe, 3 chamber flows, motorsport "c" springs, removed air silencer, '98 17" GT wheels, Clarion 12 disc changer, Viper 650 ESP
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-13-2002
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Randy,
Sounds like an ignition problem. To prove it is an ignition problem, pull out your "Spout" or Timing Plug and drive your car. If the problem goes away, it is your ignition.
Then it is just a matter of working out whether it is plugs, wires, cap, stator or rotor etc
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-13-2002
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:green How old are your spark plugs? If they have over 40 thousand miles on them try changing them. Cheap and easy. I have found this to cure more problems than anything else. "Bad" wires are often plugs with high resistance from hard use "cause" bad plug wires. When drag racing I have changed plugs as often as every 20 runs to keep down high speed miss-fire even with the best of ignition systems.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2006
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I recently installed an off road h-pipe and my car is now running bad, it is missing under acceleration. The car ran fine befoe I installed the h-pipe. I do not have MIL's but think these may solve the problem, but am not sure.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2006
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Change the plugs if you havent done so already. If you have, i'd put my money on the coil packs! Had mine go out and it drove me nuts.....no one could figure out what it was...car reved and idled fine until underload....it would literally no rev past 5500 rpm....turned out....COIL PACKS

2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L
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Get new spark plugs and make sure the boots are still good. Clean your MAS and you throttle body plate. Reset your computer and see what happens. Other then that you might want to take it to a mechanic. When I destroyed a spark plug and fried one of my boots, Ford wanted $2500 to tear down the engine. Took it to a mechanic who fixed everything for $300.

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