i am looking to have a motor built in the area of 450-500hp. Not interested in 1/4 i like the road racing...is it best to have a 4v built or could i use the 2v i already have? obviously i would have the motor rebuilt bottom to top. I still want to be able to drive it on the street.
thanks for your help in advance.
possibly...bottom end needs to be forged before putting on the power adder, i want it done right so i dont have to worry about the car blowing up in a year i also dont want to spend 20k either
I'm just spreading fact now... But this dude Mark in one of the other threads said the block is good way past those numbers if the kits done right. Check out Kenne bells web page. http://www.kennebell.net/supercharge...2v/gt96-04.htm those numbers are freakion awsome...
You can easily get that kind of power in a long lasting motor with a mild dose of boost. Of course I'm going to suggest a KB blower, there are other kits that will give the same peak power numbers, but at higher engine speeds. The biggest advantage to the positive displacement setup is the broadness of the power curves. Definitely do a forged crank, connecting rods and pistons. With 10psi or so, you wouldn't even need head porting or anything like that to get well into the 400rwhp range.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
I road race my '97. Make sure you set aside money for the best suspension and brakes that you can afford. I see guys at the track with all motor that get eaten up by Miatas and non-Turbo 944s because they can't take a corner. My 2v with PI heads, intake, chip, x pipe, etc. is modest when I'm on the track with WRX STIs, 911s, etc. but I hold my own because of the its great handling and braking. Good luck!
Coast High sells a fully built 5.1 Liter stroker longblock for $7000. It has a forged bottom end, Patriot heads, and your choice of Cams. With this setup you can toss a kenne bell blowzilla on it and make 600 hp. Or you can go with a high compression and can easily make 450 rwhp on race gas.
I would steer clear of anything with Patriot heads. A 5.1L 2V motor should make well in excess of 600 ponies with a Blowzilla on it.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
Coast High sells a fully built 5.1 Liter stroker longblock for $7000. It has a forged bottom end, Patriot heads, and your choice of Cams. With this setup you can toss a kenne bell blowzilla on it and make 600 hp. Or you can go with a high compression and can easily make 450 rwhp on race gas.
450rwhp N/A? I don't think so buddy.
Also, for everyones knowledge, CHP gets 5.1L out of a stroker because they bore an iron block to .060, which is rediculous. They also don't own a set of deck plates for mod motors, which for the business they are in, is also rediculous. But again, it's your money, do as you wish.
I would build the bottom end with forged rods and pistons. I would keep your stock crank it should hold up fine unless you start going higher then 550rwhp. For road racing I think the KB would be the best bet unless you go turbo. But remember with all that power you will need a transmission and rearend to handle it. You are probably looking at 11-12k for this build up. Thats just the engine part of it.
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1998 GT Saleen replica
New forged internals w/cobra crank, TEA CNC ported heads w/ comp cams XE270AH, AccuFab throttlebody and plenum, Spec III clutch, TKO 600 trans, aluminum drive shaft, 3:73 gears, BBK long tube headers, 255lpm intank fuel pump, Dyno tuned, Polished Procharger D-1sc 12psi, 3 core intercooler. SVO hood and 18in Budnik wheels w/toyo tires. Caster/Camber plates BBK lowering springs. Car web page
Comp cams XE262AH,T-45 with tri-ax shifter for sale
I have a new rearend....I have a tko600...just havent installed yet because i do not know what type of bellhousing i will need and do not want to waste any $$..
So all in all the recomendation is to pick up a supercharger, and forge the internals? Should I bore the block the .020? or leave it as is?
Bore the block just enough to clean up the cylinders and stop. Get a blower and forged internals and have a blast.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
Just for the record, I have a 4.6 SOHC, with a ATI Procharger (more details below), and I have around 450 HP at the engine, I imagine around 400 at the wheels. I have had the SC for around 3 years with no engine degradation. The stock lower block has been quoted to be able to handle around 650 HP. The weakest link on the base block is the Hypereutectic pistons, which are not as strong as some of the higher power pistons on the market.
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Drew's Red 96 GT Auto, Procharger 10 PSI - 2 Core Inner Cooler, Eibach Lowering Springs, Livernois Lower Intake, C&L Upper Intake, Accufab 75mm TB, Poly Spring Isolators, Front End Poly Bushing Kit, CrazyHorse UCA & LCA, KYB Adjustable Gas Shocks & Struts, Subframe Connectors, 30 lb Injectors, Excalibrator II Customer Tune, B&M Shift Improver, 2800 Stall Speed T/C, 4:10 Gears, BBK Catless X Pipe, Dynomax Mufflers, Fluidyne Rad, Battery Trunk Kit, Cobra 5 Spokes, Nitto NT555 255/40/ZR17.
engine build questions 
