I have a pretty stock 96 GT. It has about 150,000 miles. The check engine light has been going on and off since about 30,000 miles. Nobody can figure out what the problem is. My registration is due today and I need to pass smog, but they won't pass it with the light on. Is it possible to simply take out the fuse and then go get the smog done?
why do that when you can get it scanned or buy a generic ODBII scanner and just fix the problem?
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1996 Mustang GT 248A
barely any mods, Daily driver
1965 Chevy c-10 350 chevy getting pulled for 402BBC and Th400
1984 Caprice Classic 305 getting pulled for mild 350, hoping for high 14s
They will be able to read the code if the light is on, then search the code on this forum with the search function and see related posts of people who already had that code before you. otherwise if you dont care and just want to pass emissions you can pull the light bulb out.
They will be able to read the code if the light is on, then search the code on this forum with the search function and see related posts of people who already had that code before you. otherwise if you dont care and just want to pass emissions you can pull the light bulb out.
I had the car diaognosed on a couple different occasions. I forget the exact codes that it gave, but I do remember that it was very vauge and didn't say what the exact problem was. I even took it to a Ford specialist and they tried a whole bunch of different things like changing different sensors, and even changing the gas cap. The light stays on.
Anyway, if I want to take out the light bulb do I have to take off the whole front gauges? I was thinking I could just unplug the fuse for about half an hour while it's getting smogged. Does anyone know if that will work?
Taking out the bulb won't help, the computer that they (the inspection people) will hook to your car will read the check engine light status from the ECU and it will not pass. Gonna have to get the code read and then go from there. Sounds like you might have an ECU problem
I didn't see the last post until it was too late. I tried taking out the fuse but the smog station computer knew, so it failed. They did have a code for me. P1443.
I went to Autozone and I was told it is the Emission Control System Valve. They didn't have the part so I drove to the Ford dealership. I was told the Emission Control Sytem had 2 parts; a solenoid and a canister. I bought the solenoid for $75. I changed that and the Check Engine Light stayed off for a couple days, but then it came back on this morning; and I didn't have a chance to get it smogged yet .
So now here I am, back to square one. I did a search of P1443, but no one seemed to have a consistant answer. My car does seem to have the symtoms of a faulty Idle Air Control Valve, so I think I will be changing that, but I dont know if that has anything to do with the Check Engine Light. Does anyone have any other advice? I need to get this smogged ASAP.
do this right before you smog it:
1) have someone scan the code and erase it so the check engine light turns off. (or simply unplug the battery for an extended amount of time, for me it was about 8 hours, but thats cuz i was working on the car for something else)
2) drive it around for about 30 minutes to an hour, so the computer can be ready. if you said it took a few days for the light to turn on again, driving it around for a little while shouldnt trigger it again.
3) take it to the smog shop and have them smog it.
it should pass, or at least the check engine light wont interfer with it passing.
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4/26/61 - 10/30/07
The best Mom-lady I could have ever asked for
do this right before you smog it:
1) have someone scan the code and erase it so the check engine light turns off. (or simply unplug the battery for an extended amount of time, for me it was about 8 hours, but thats cuz i was working on the car for something else)
2) drive it around for about 30 minutes to an hour, so the computer can be ready. if you said it took a few days for the light to turn on again, driving it around for a little while shouldnt trigger it again.
3) take it to the smog shop and have them smog it.
it should pass, or at least the check engine light wont interfer with it passing.
you will be golden if you follow those rules. they will not fail a P1000 code, which is what you will get after unplugging the battery. there are 7 obd drive cycles, and to smog in the state of california, you only need 5 completed to pass smog. if you take out the bulb, you will fail they do a bulb functional check, and if it doesnt come on and prove out, it will fail. you said you replaced the gas cap so you will be good with the gas cap functional check.
so it sounds like you have an evap leak, once you disconnect the battery, let us know how long it takes for the light to come back on. if you have a slow leak, you will be alright, have you had your fuel pump replaced recently, or had the tank down for any reason?
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Sr. Master Ford nerd.
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I changed the fuel filter not to long ago, but I never touched the fuel pump. My car did have the symtoms of a faulty IAC. I changed that last night and I experienced a big change. It seemed to make it worse??? Idleling rougher. Hopefully it just takes a day or two to adjust. So I changed the IAC, and the Emission Control System Valve. I guess I'll have to wait a day or two to see if the light goes off. Do you think I might have to change the Emission Control System Canister?
Check engine light 
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