intake manifold install? 1998 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2006 Thread Starter
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intake manifold install? 1998 Mustang GT

i own a 98 mustang gt, and the intake manifold cracked. i bought a used one with the metal piece instead if the plastic. the only problem is that i don't know how to put it in myself, and i have no $$$ to have it installed. i don't have any experience working on cars. the ony thing i installed by myself is my exhaust. i just need to know if this install is posible with someone like me with no experience. i thought it was just a bolt on. anyways if it is possible i just need to know what i would need for the install. or if anyone knows of a good site that will help me. thank in advance.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2006
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It's a pretty easy swap, just be sure to take note of where all cables, connectors, and vacuum lines go. I usually start these jobs by taking a bunch of photos incase I forget where something goes. Also be sure to inspect your gaskets before re-using them and replace if necessary.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2006
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pretty much man - the first time i turned wrenches on my car I was installing the cai, throttle body, and plenum combo on the car and the tb and plenum are located on top of the intake manifold - easy install took me about 1.5 hours and i was a novice - shouldnt be too hard except for the fuel rails

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2006
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mustangluv14, its actually a very simple install. i have a 98 also and just replaced mine due to a crack towards the rear, but i choose to go with a PI intake manifold for the added power. its very easy, and to make things even easier you can take off the hood so you have a little more movement and dont hit your head so much, thats what i did. you will need:

New intake manifold
New intake manifold gaskets (get them, you will probably need them if yours are in the same shape that mine were. mine had about 140k miles)
fuel line disconnect kit (autozone, $5)

some simple things to make your life easier are:
take off the hood
take off plug wires and drape them over the front of the car (make sure to take note of where they go, ie which cylinder)
take off the alternator (i know, doesnt seem easy, but it is. take off the belt, uplug the alternatory, and on the bottom of the alternator you will see 2 bolts. loosen them up, you dont have to take them off as the alternator has "cuts" that will let it slide out.) this will make taking out the manifold A LOT easier.
DONT TAKE THE INJECTORS off the fuel rail, instead take the fuel rails off with all 8 injectors still plugged into it. they literally just pop off, but becareful as gas will spill.

i think this is it, other than make sure you torque the intake maifold to specs, which i think are around 15-22 ft-lbs, but double check just to be sure.
(.:. Brothers Tune-Up and Specification Guide: 4.6L Torque Specificaions .:.)
throttle body and plenum are easy to remove, you dont have to take off the throttle linkage, but it makes it easier if you do, that way you can set aside the throttle body.

also, as mentioned above, take plenty of pics if you can, you might not need them, but just in case you do, you can have something to reference. mainly take pics of the vaccum lines, and dont forget to mark them with white-out or something similar. if you need anymore help let me know, i think i still have the pics i took somewhere.

-xavier

RIP Gloria A. Torres
4/26/61 - 10/30/07
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2006
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oh yeah, almost forgot....drain the coolant before you do anything! last thing you want is to take off the radiator hose and have it spill coolant all over the place, that smell stays in there forever. also, replace the clamps as necessary. i didnt, and low and behold, 2 days after the install i was on my way to work when i got the low coolant light, turns out the re-used upper radiator hose clamps (yes, both of them) failed and were leaking coolant all over. good thing i decided to carry along extra coolant just in case, it paid off.

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006
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Horsepower

How much horsepower can I exspect after a pi intake installation? Will it reduce my 1/4 mile time at all? If so, about how much?


Thanks,

Rob
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006
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rob, from what i have read, its supposed to give you about 15 rwhp. this depends on what other mods you have, and i think that should equal about .1 second in the 1/4 mile. before and after timeslips at the 1/8 mile were 9.4/9.5 average, and after the swap it was 9.2 average. going to the 1/8 mile again tomorrow, so ill post the times tomorrow. ill dig up before slips too.

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reivaxtorres View Post
mustangluv14, its actually a very simple install. i have a 98 also and just replaced mine due to a crack towards the rear, but i choose to go with a PI intake manifold for the added power. its very easy, and to make things even easier you can take off the hood so you have a little more movement and dont hit your head so much, thats what i did. you will need:

New intake manifold
New intake manifold gaskets (get them, you will probably need them if yours are in the same shape that mine were. mine had about 140k miles)
fuel line disconnect kit (autozone, $5)

some simple things to make your life easier are:
take off the hood
take off plug wires and drape them over the front of the car (make sure to take note of where they go, ie which cylinder)
take off the alternator (i know, doesnt seem easy, but it is. take off the belt, uplug the alternatory, and on the bottom of the alternator you will see 2 bolts. loosen them up, you dont have to take them off as the alternator has "cuts" that will let it slide out.) this will make taking out the manifold A LOT easier.
DONT TAKE THE INJECTORS off the fuel rail, instead take the fuel rails off with all 8 injectors still plugged into it. they literally just pop off, but becareful as gas will spill.

i think this is it, other than make sure you torque the intake maifold to specs, which i think are around 15-22 ft-lbs, but double check just to be sure.
(.:. Brothers Tune-Up and Specification Guide: 4.6L Torque Specificaions .:.)
throttle body and plenum are easy to remove, you dont have to take off the throttle linkage, but it makes it easier if you do, that way you can set aside the throttle body.

also, as mentioned above, take plenty of pics if you can, you might not need them, but just in case you do, you can have something to reference. mainly take pics of the vaccum lines, and dont forget to mark them with white-out or something similar. if you need anymore help let me know, i think i still have the pics i took somewhere.

-xavier
he got it down. follow these directions and it will be straight forward as possible. one more thing, i would disconnect the battery before you pull off the alternator, the last thing you want is arcing all over the place if you set it down wrong. another thing. when you have it all back together, remember that since you took off the fuel rail, its not goin to be 100% full of fuel. cycle the key on and off about 6 times before you crank it over. this way you dont get scared into thinking you did something wrong and your car wont start.

Why drive a Prius when you can have a Fiesta!!
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006
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While ur in there also check the o rings on the water tube thats behind the waterpump, they can become jarred loose when u do the manifold swap, its also a good idea to replace those stupid stock ford hose clamps with some worm gear type ones, they seal better and are easier to get on and off, and if you want change ur thermostat, hey, ur in there may as well.
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Anyone seen any info related to Fords class action lawsuit with these Intakes on the 4.6L. Thought they were replacing these free of charge on a service bulletin based on being found guilty of negligence. Knowing that they wre a bad design and all..

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yeah, i tried that, didnt work. turns out that without a reciept, ford will only cover cover the cost of it IF your car was built less than 7 yrs ago, not a day over. so seeing as to how mine was built in jan of 98, i was screwed. besides, this way (PI intake) i got a little more power out of it.

and lxario, yes, it would be a good idea to disconnet the battery, huh? lol dont worry, i did that too, just forgot to mention it.

RIP Gloria A. Torres
4/26/61 - 10/30/07
The best Mom-lady I could have ever asked for
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Be sure to relieve the fuel pressure as well, before you start tearing everything down. I forgot and pulled an injector out the other night, 30 psi made quite a mess. Lucily the injector stayed in the rail and came out of the intake, had it come out of the rail all that fuel would have sprayed up!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reivaxtorres View Post
yeah, i tried that, didnt work. turns out that without a reciept, ford will only cover cover the cost of it IF your car was built less than 7 yrs ago, not a day over. so seeing as to how mine was built in jan of 98, i was screwed.
.

Well that just blows. always a fine line isn't there...

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Well that just blows. always a fine line isn't there...
Mine was built august 98, so 7 years would have been august 05 and i got my money back for intake in feb 06 with a receipt...weird.
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Thanks guys. I hope to try to install the intake in the next couple of weeks. I still am not sure if I have all the necessary parts to do it. I have the intake and the alternator braket but I have heard I will need some more parts. The bad thing is I had my original intake replaced with another npi intake last year because it cracked. At the time i didn't realize the pi intake could give me power. You live and you learn i guess.
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