why did the rear axle start making noise after the gear install?
as you all know i just installed my 3.73's and it has not been a pleasant experience.
1st i took the car home after the install and heard a loud rubbing sound from the back passenger tire
2nd put it back on the rack and noticed scarring around the ends of both axles (rotor side, not gear side) and both passenger and driver sides had the same visual damage though the sound is only coming from the one side.
3rd bought bearing rebuild kits for both sides (bearings, seats...) but still have a rubbing sound
4th just got in my new Moser axles, 28 spline exact replacement, and hoping that it will fix my problem...i'm sure it is the axle from a curb i hit a few days before the gear install but never heard a sound from it until we took it apart.
my 2 questions are...did taking this stuff apart make the sound of damage actually start and should this be the last part i replace to stop the rubbing sound.
ps..the rubbing sound is only apparent when i take my foot from the gas pedal...doesn't make a rubbing sound while the gas is pressed
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'99 Mustang GT Limited Edition/35th Anniversary
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Ford Racing 3.73 Gears, Moser Axles, Ceramic Brakes, MagnaFlow Cats, Basani X-Pipe, 40-Series Flowmasters, Bomz CAI(modified), Fully Loaded, Black/Silver Leather, 17" LE Pony Rims, Fuzion ZRi 275-40-17 Tires, Mach 1 Grille Delete, Black Euro Tail Lights, Mach 460 Sound System, Sony Xtreme Head Unit with XM Satellite, Pioneer 3-way Replacements, 2 10" Audiobaun DVC Subs powered by Rockford/Fosgate Amps
maybe you didnt reinstall the drive shaft correctly at the gear box.
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DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
well at first i thought it could have been a problem with the gears...some of the post here had me really scared to go through with it because of things that go wrong.
when we put it on the rack you could tell the sound is coming from my far right near the tire. when we put it on the rack and jacked up the rear...i put it in 2nd and hit the gas to about 40mph...quick presses. everytime i hit the gas the rear tire on the passenger side would jump or jerk. at first we thought the rim could be ben but the entire wheel was shifting up and down and only on one side leading us to think the axle had been bent.
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'99 Mustang GT Limited Edition/35th Anniversary
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Ford Racing 3.73 Gears, Moser Axles, Ceramic Brakes, MagnaFlow Cats, Basani X-Pipe, 40-Series Flowmasters, Bomz CAI(modified), Fully Loaded, Black/Silver Leather, 17" LE Pony Rims, Fuzion ZRi 275-40-17 Tires, Mach 1 Grille Delete, Black Euro Tail Lights, Mach 460 Sound System, Sony Xtreme Head Unit with XM Satellite, Pioneer 3-way Replacements, 2 10" Audiobaun DVC Subs powered by Rockford/Fosgate Amps
did you take the whole Axel off? it has to be centered, or the wheel could be rubbing the wheel well? I never did gears, so i don't know if you missed a step. good luck.
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DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
sounds to me like you have a pinion depth problem it is called back lash and it happens alot when people change their gears . it is carachterized by a whining like noise when you let off the gas and you might not have noticed it yet but if you drive it for awhile it will get worse and it probably will make aneven worse noise if you drive it for awhile and then stop and back up if it doesnt do it now it will eventually and your right rear wheel will ususally mislead you because that is your power wheel for instance one wheel peal when you do a burn out it will just about always be your right wheel unless their is a funny weight transfer or some thing even if you have a limited slip the right rear will spin first . that is probably why it would apear that the problem is the right rear wheel and spining your wheels on a rack like you described is usually not a very good indication of what is actually happening when you drive because their is not any real weight or resistance on the rear end. if you take your cover off you should be able to see where the pinion gear has been riding on the outer or inner edge of the ring gear it will be worn. i know this is long winded but to fix it you will have to shim the rear end to acheive the correct pinion depth there is a type of micrometer to measure it with but a cant remember the name rite now. the noise is because the gears are binding in a way thats kind of a bad way to put it though. anyways i hope this helps you !
Did you replace the axles at the same time as the gears?
I installed a set of hardened Alloy 28 spline axles last year and it was a nightmare.
The C clip locations on the new axles were toward the wheel side of the axle about 1/2 inch too far. This caused the rotors to rub the rotor bracket and make an awful noise.
When all was said and done, i reinstalled my stock axles and had to replace both ABS sensors on the rear due damage.
Your issue may be different, but you can quickly rule it out by removing both rear tires with the car jacked up, then take the rotor and axle and see if you can move them in and out. If you can, your C clips / spring aren't holding the axles tight or in the correct position.
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"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.