I'm thinking about adding autometer water temp and oil pressure guages on my stang. I want to see pics of how the sending units are mounted. I know that the factory water temp sending unit is in the intake manifold water jacket by the thermostat and I need to keep that one for the ECM. I want to know if people use a T fitting so both the factory and aftermarket sending unit can be used. I'm mostly interested with the water temp one, I know how to tap into the oil system for the oil pressure guage. I'm just wondering if using a T will effect the reading because the sending units will not actually be in the stream of water going but out of it in a little pocket, may be hard to understand but I would like some pics please. Thanks in advance
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Ben Toppi
'01 Ford Police Interceptor - Daily driver
'04 Ford Mustang GT, black, 5 speed, 40 series flows, o/r H-pipe, bbk intake, SCT dyno tune, ZEX wet nitrous 125shot, MGW short throw shifter, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, Black Bullitt deep dish wheels with 270/45/17's up front and 315/35/17's out back. Goodyear Eagle F1GSD3's. BBK LCA's. Mach1 grill and assorted stainless accessories - My toy
Dyno #'s = 325hp and 420ft/lbs
1/4 mile= 13.1@110mph w/2.1 60 ft street tires
Mark's solution is probably better but what I did was get an aluminum sleeve from autometer with a 3/8 hole already tapped and put it on the upper radiator hose, you just split the hose and connect the sleeve and put the sender and you get to keep the stock and auxiliary sensor!
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96GT:BBK CAI,X-Pipe,plenum,75mm TB,JBA wires, Accel coil packs, SCT X-Calibrator II Dyno-tune, 180termo,Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch, Hurst Billet Shifter,FR(ceramic coated)shorty headers, 3.73 Gears, Magnaflow Cat Back(3.5 tips), FR handling kit,Bullit wheels: 18x9, 245/40/ZR18's front, 18x10, 285/40/ZR18's back,190gph FR fuel pump, Maximum Motorsport subframe connectors, Full PI swap. 246rwhp,288trq.
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"Drive It Like You Stole It"
Mark's solution is probably better but what I did was get an aluminum sleeve from autometer with a 3/8 hole already tapped and put it on the upper radiator hose, you just split the hose and connect the sleeve and put the sender and you get to keep the stock and auxiliary sensor!
Although it costs more than my idea, it's an easier mod for sure. To do it my way, you'll want to pull th e crossover off (since you'll be drilling into it), and definately do a coolant flush. Both of which I didn't mind doing, haha
Mark's solution is probably better but what I did was get an aluminum sleeve from autometer with a 3/8 hole already tapped and put it on the upper radiator hose, you just split the hose and connect the sleeve and put the sender and you get to keep the stock and auxiliary sensor!
I'd like to see a picture of that if you could. Also I like the idea of just drilling and tapping the crossover, a lot better than getting a T fitting. Thanks guys!
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Ben Toppi
'01 Ford Police Interceptor - Daily driver
'04 Ford Mustang GT, black, 5 speed, 40 series flows, o/r H-pipe, bbk intake, SCT dyno tune, ZEX wet nitrous 125shot, MGW short throw shifter, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, Black Bullitt deep dish wheels with 270/45/17's up front and 315/35/17's out back. Goodyear Eagle F1GSD3's. BBK LCA's. Mach1 grill and assorted stainless accessories - My toy
Dyno #'s = 325hp and 420ft/lbs
1/4 mile= 13.1@110mph w/2.1 60 ft street tires
i made a t-fitting out of alummina and welded it up and mounted between the heater hose thats going in to heater core....i have a auto meter gauge and a 180 thermostate and fan on at 188 and it always reads between 180 and 190, depending on when fan is on or off........so id say thats a pretty good place..but if u have alum crossover that would be easier too just drill and tap that with 3/8-18 pipe tap
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1996 mustang vortech v-2 sq blower with aftercooler 10psi, proffesional products 75mm tb and plenum,bbk long tubes,custom x-pipe,flowmaster cat back,3.73, optima red top in trunk,steeda clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster,poly motor and trans mounts,alum drive shaft,maxium motorsports suspension,tubular k-member/arms, qa-1 struts and shocks,steeda cc plates,custom subframe connectors,welded torque boxes,t/a rearend cover,walbro255, b&m shifter/triax handle,sct tuner.90mm lighting mam
front of the intake manifold, where the thermostat housing is. On the old school 2V's it was plastic (which is what caused all the cracking). On the 02+PI motors, it was aluminum and you can detach it from the intake manifold.
Here's the link to the sleeve: Auto Meter
It's what I ended up using.
I also ended up doing what mark suggested because on 96 GT's there are 2 sensors for coolant temp so now I'll be able to see the temp on the gauges and the dash, drilling the tap was inexpensive, the machine shop charged me 15$ while the hose adapter ran me about 70$ from summit racing( it was 2 years ago), might be more expensive now.
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96GT:BBK CAI,X-Pipe,plenum,75mm TB,JBA wires, Accel coil packs, SCT X-Calibrator II Dyno-tune, 180termo,Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch, Hurst Billet Shifter,FR(ceramic coated)shorty headers, 3.73 Gears, Magnaflow Cat Back(3.5 tips), FR handling kit,Bullit wheels: 18x9, 245/40/ZR18's front, 18x10, 285/40/ZR18's back,190gph FR fuel pump, Maximum Motorsport subframe connectors, Full PI swap. 246rwhp,288trq.
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"Drive It Like You Stole It"
front of the intake manifold, where the thermostat housing is. On the old school 2V's it was plastic (which is what caused all the cracking). On the 02+PI motors, it was aluminum and you can detach it from the intake manifold.
Hmmm, I never had the intake off of my 02'. Wish I could say the same for this damn 4v!
Thanks guys, I think when the time comes I'll just drill and tap it.
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Ben Toppi
'01 Ford Police Interceptor - Daily driver
'04 Ford Mustang GT, black, 5 speed, 40 series flows, o/r H-pipe, bbk intake, SCT dyno tune, ZEX wet nitrous 125shot, MGW short throw shifter, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, Black Bullitt deep dish wheels with 270/45/17's up front and 315/35/17's out back. Goodyear Eagle F1GSD3's. BBK LCA's. Mach1 grill and assorted stainless accessories - My toy
Dyno #'s = 325hp and 420ft/lbs
1/4 mile= 13.1@110mph w/2.1 60 ft street tires
Be careful if you put the temp sensor between the radiator and the thermostat you might not see the car overheat if the thermostat is stuck closed. It will not allow the water to flow pass the sending unit. Peugeot had a problem with this (among all the other dumb a$$ things they did) on the diesels and a lot of them would overheat but the gauge did not show it since the sending unit was located in the radiator next to the upper hose.
Pics of aftermarket guage sending units 
, MGW short throw shifter, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, Black Bullitt deep dish wheels with 270/45/17's up front and 315/35/17's out back. Goodyear Eagle F1GSD3's. BBK LCA's. Mach1 grill and assorted stainless accessories - My toy
