i just purchased a used procharger kit for my 00gt. couple questions about the bypass valve. i've read that the stock proflo one leaks by a lot, so i tested it. i could pretty much blow right by it, with resistance, but still. i was wondering what other types i could replace it with that would pretty much fit right where it goes. i looked at the bosch 710n due to a lot of people using that one, but the entire thing is made of plastic and it's a 90deg bend. that still work ok? $50 is doable, $200+ for the procharger race one is a bit steep.
also, the bottom of the valve has two connections that i'm not sure where they connect to. one looks like a nipple to slide on a vacuum line, but i'm not sure what vacuum line and from where. the other one kinda looks like a small tire filler fitting, have no idea what connects to that if anything does. and the directions aren't that great.
help!?!?
i'm pretty sure you guys will have an idea of what i'm talking about, but i attached a pic of the bypass valve and the connections on the bottom just in case.
I think the ProCharger race one is pretty popular, but it's been a whle since I did any reading on forced induction stuff.
You're correct about the vacuum connection on the bypass valve. It gets connected to a line that senses manifold vacuum, I'm not sure which one though either.
The valve stem looking thing is how the release point on the bypass valve is set I think. I'm pretty sure the bypass valve uses a diaphragm with boost pressure on one side and a preset air pressure on the other. Once enough pressure builds up on the boost side (i.e. throttle blade slamming shut) the air pressure on the other side is overcome and the diaphragm opens up to relieve the boost pressure. I have no idea what this preset pressure is though.
Sorry I couldn't be more help but it's early and my brain isn't completely functional yet and it's been a while since I dealt with stuff like this.
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yea ones for the vacume signal and the others to set when the valve opens ....tighten center stud down and it will take more vacume to open it i believe............
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i just purchased a used procharger kit for my 00gt. couple questions about the bypass valve. i've read that the stock proflo one leaks by a lot, so i tested it. i could pretty much blow right by it, with resistance, but still. i was wondering what other types i could replace it with that would pretty much fit right where it goes. i looked at the bosch 710n due to a lot of people using that one, but the entire thing is made of plastic and it's a 90deg bend. that still work ok? $50 is doable, $200+ for the procharger race one is a bit steep.
also, the bottom of the valve has two connections that i'm not sure where they connect to. one looks like a nipple to slide on a vacuum line, but i'm not sure what vacuum line and from where. the other one kinda looks like a small tire filler fitting, have no idea what connects to that if anything does. and the directions aren't that great.
help!?!?
i'm pretty sure you guys will have an idea of what i'm talking about, but i attached a pic of the bypass valve and the connections on the bottom just in case.
. Attachment 28523
You are right, and it is not just the leak but the fact that the valve does not close up instantly that sucks too. Any BOV that has a hose opening (non-flanged) will be a direct replacment. Don't get a Vortech, they have a flange (I have one on my Boss Shinoda). Check Ebay, I have seen some for buy it now $45 for a decent one
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1998 Saleen S-281 (Metallic Purple)
ProCharger P-1SC supercharger with sheet metal intercooler,Stage II Methanol injection,D.S.S. Level 20 short block .040+ balanced/ blueprinted,310 Stroker,Patriot Motorsports heads,Diablosport chip custom tunedn,Comp Cams (custom grinds)...and so on...
i've seen a lot on there, but a lot look to be replica/knock offs. i saw the flange you're referring to, yea, i don't want that. any brands that work well that you can recommend? they have a lot of the bosch ones, but thats plastic, wasn't sure if it would work better or not. also they mention different sizes(in mm), is there anything in particular i should be looking for as far as size goes. or is it just the fact of it having the hose connection on both sides that i care about?
i've seen a lot on there, but a lot look to be replica/knock offs. i saw the flange you're referring to, yea, i don't want that. any brands that work well that you can recommend? they have a lot of the bosch ones, but thats plastic, wasn't sure if it would work better or not. also they mention different sizes(in mm), is there anything in particular i should be looking for as far as size goes. or is it just the fact of it having the hose connection on both sides that i care about?
Actually, the Ebay no namers are fine. I have a friend who has one and he says it does not leak at all... and it has a fast R/T. The main thing to look for as far as fitment is the hose imput or output. You can even run the flanged type on a Procharger by hooking it up backward, the only thing is that you will either need to fabricate a flange pipe to go back into the intake tube or simply leave the BOF dumping directly into the atmosphere. As far as the size is concerned, don't worry about specs that much. They all basically do the same thing unless you are runnung a 25lbs. boost drag car set up.
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1998 Saleen S-281 (Metallic Purple)
ProCharger P-1SC supercharger with sheet metal intercooler,Stage II Methanol injection,D.S.S. Level 20 short block .040+ balanced/ blueprinted,310 Stroker,Patriot Motorsports heads,Diablosport chip custom tunedn,Comp Cams (custom grinds)...and so on...
From what I've heard, the Bosch replacements are too small, but work well if you use 2. Like Cragar said, the ebay knock-offs are fine. Nothing wrong with a knock-off, especially if it's based off of a good design.
Bypass valves vs. Blow-off valves are kinda like 32V motors vs. 4V motors... they are pretty much the same thing, just how they are worded. You actually are not supposed to adjust most bypass valves, as they are set by the factory at the correct settings. You can test the reaction time of a valve by taking a short piece of hose and connecting it to the vacuum port. Then, suck on the end of the hose creating vaccuum and causing the valve to open. Then, let go of the hose with your mouth and see what happens to the valve. Every basic (black) Procharger valve that I have seen seems to stick closing back up. I have not seen this with Vortech valves or other aftermarkets. The Procharger race valve does not have this delay either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnole23
how do i know what they're set at, how do i adjust it, and what does it need to be adjusted to? an can i test it's response time?
i'm running the 10lb p1sc setup as bypass, not blow off, if it matters
the first link is a bosch replica, but claims to be tested to allow 10% more flow, at least. think that would be enough?
i've also read that the procharger kit is designed to only boost at wot, instead of gradually. does that have anything to do with the bypass valve? seems like if there was zero leakage that it would be boosting more and more as rpm's increased, even when just reving the engine, that true or am i just making stuff up?
the first link is a bosch replica, but claims to be tested to allow 10% more flow, at least. think that would be enough?
i've also read that the procharger kit is designed to only boost at wot, instead of gradually. does that have anything to do with the bypass valve? seems like if there was zero leakage that it would be boosting more and more as rpm's increased, even when just reving the engine, that true or am i just making stuff up?
Not necessarily. The bypass valve is designed to be a progressive valve, meaning that the more you hit the throttle the less vacuum you produce closing the valve up more and more. At idle the valve is open, you do not have a boost condition. While revving the car you will stay in vaccuum until the point where the intake pipes fill with air (positive displacment). This time varies as some kits such as a non-aftercooled system have shorter plumbing than say a Procharger which has about 3 miles of plumbing. As far as the Bosch replica, you will be fine with that one, in my opinion, with 10psi. The Procharger is a progressive boost system, but yes, in a way it produces it's maximum boost at WOT and yes, this is definately due to the valve.
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1998 Saleen S-281 (Metallic Purple)
ProCharger P-1SC supercharger with sheet metal intercooler,Stage II Methanol injection,D.S.S. Level 20 short block .040+ balanced/ blueprinted,310 Stroker,Patriot Motorsports heads,Diablosport chip custom tunedn,Comp Cams (custom grinds)...and so on...
any recommendation on the valves i linked? i like the billet replica bosch one, simple and cheap. but i want one that works as expected.
Honestly, I have never had personal expierence with either one, but they all will do the job. If you want to go with the billet one, go for it, should work out for you fine.
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1998 Saleen S-281 (Metallic Purple)
ProCharger P-1SC supercharger with sheet metal intercooler,Stage II Methanol injection,D.S.S. Level 20 short block .040+ balanced/ blueprinted,310 Stroker,Patriot Motorsports heads,Diablosport chip custom tunedn,Comp Cams (custom grinds)...and so on...
i think i will be getting the cheaper one. the inlet/outlet fittings are bigger than the fitting on my intake tubing, so i'll have to get a reducer or something to fit it right. thanks for the input.
i think i will be getting the cheaper one. the inlet/outlet fittings are bigger than the fitting on my intake tubing, so i'll have to get a reducer or something to fit it right. thanks for the input.
No problem... good luck with it and let us know how you like it.
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1998 Saleen S-281 (Metallic Purple)
ProCharger P-1SC supercharger with sheet metal intercooler,Stage II Methanol injection,D.S.S. Level 20 short block .040+ balanced/ blueprinted,310 Stroker,Patriot Motorsports heads,Diablosport chip custom tunedn,Comp Cams (custom grinds)...and so on...
bypass valve question 
