[Dendro_4.6]

I'm installing new head bolts, and I was wondering if anyone had some words of wisdom? I'm using Felpro bolts. Is there anything else besides the torque settings that I should know about? Do I need to put some sealant on the end of the bolts, or do I just need to clean them, and torque them in?

Thanks

[reivaxtorres]

Originally Posted by Dendro_4.6

I'm installing new head bolts, and I was wondering if anyone had some words of wisdom? I'm using Felpro bolts. Is there anything else besides the torque settings that I should know about? Do I need to put some sealant on the end of the bolts, or do I just need to clean them, and torque them in?

Thanks

dip them in oil before you put them in, at least the threaded part. is the engine still in the car?

[Dendro_4.6]

Yes, it's still in the car. I really like the ARP head studs, but I have heard that you have to take the engine out, and I don't have the means of getting a picker. I know the Felpro bolts are better than the Ford racing bolts, but will they be okay for forced induction, and PI heads.

Thanks

[reivaxtorres]

Originally Posted by Dendro_4.6

Yes, it's still in the car. I really like the ARP head studs, but I have heard that you have to take the engine out, and I don't have the means of getting a picker. I know the Felpro bolts are better than the Ford racing bolts, but will they be okay for forced induction, and PI heads.

Thanks

in that case the heads will also have to be removed in order to remove 2 bolts on the passanger side and 3 on the drives side, or vise versa. you have to take as many of the bolts as you can out, and the ones that cant come out because of the shock towers, you have to hold up as much as you can and remove them with the heads. when you re-install the heads, those bolts have to be put partially in as well or else you wont be able to get the bolts on with the heads already installed.

since you will need to remove the heads, you might as well get some new head gaskets, as these are something i wouldnt gamble with re-using since you will be going FI (from what i gather)

[Dendro_4.6]

I talked with Summit, and they said that I can use the ARP studs with the heads on, I just have to be careful with the few that need more clerance, like you were saying. I put these heads on before, but I had a gasket leak from the OEM "new" ones. Coolant in the oil... I used little rubber tubes with slits in them to hold the few bolts in place. I just bought the ARP lube, ARP sealant, and there Hex studs. I also bought the copper self sealing gaskets, a ($260) gasket..ouch! What do you think, you think I will be able to successfully install the studs correctly with the heads on. The studs have a place to put an allen wrench to tighten them up.

Thanks

[reivaxtorres]

Originally Posted by Dendro_4.6

I talked with Summit, and they said that I can use the ARP studs with the heads on, I just have to be careful with the few that need more clerance, like you were saying. I put these heads on before, but I had a gasket leak from the OEM "new" ones. Coolant in the oil... I used little rubber tubes with slits in them to hold the few bolts in place. I just bought the ARP lube, ARP sealant, and there Hex studs. I also bought the copper self sealing gaskets, a ($260) gasket..ouch! What do you think, you think I will be able to successfully install the studs correctly with the heads on. The studs have a place to put an allen wrench to tighten them up.

Thanks

well, ive never worked with the studs, just the bolts. if your car has the bolts on it right now, im pretty sure its gonna be impossible to take out those few bolts without at least seperating the heads from the block. im assuming the studs are going to be longer than the regular head bolts because they will require the extra threads on the top to get the nut on. honestly, i dont think it'll be possible w/o taking off the heads.

come to think of it......i dont think you will even have enough clearence over the studs for the heads. i think you might need to save this project for when you can have the engine out of the car.

[Dendro_4.6]

What I was thinking off was to take the heads off, remove the few bolts still on, put on the new gasket, then place the heads back on with the 3 in them to clear the shock towers and master cylinder. I will put the nuts on the studs and put them in tlike the old bolts. I will then put the studs through the cylinder heads, hex them in (they have a place for an allen wrench on the end of them), and then torque them down to spec. The studs are no longer than 2" compaired to the OEM bolts. I think they recommend having the engine out because you have to clean out each bolt hole, place sealant on the ends, and use a special lube. I think the issue is keeping the sealant and lube off the heads, as the bolts will go through the heads.

[FDNYBullitt]

If you have the ARP studs with the hex socket at the top yes you can remove and replace the heads with the motor still in the car. I did a post about this quite a while ago explaining how you use the nuts on top so the studs are the same as bolts when using the rubber tubes to R&R them, good luck.

[Dendro_4.6]

That was what I was thinking of. I imagine the main concern is not getting the sealer and lube all up in the head. Because I will have to place a few of the studs already in the head when I put it on the motor. I will use a piece of paper for these studs. I will roll it up, place it in the stud hole, and then put the sealed and lubed stud in. After I get the head on the block, I will pull the piece of paper out, and I won't have any goop inside of the head. I think I just need to be sure the sealer doesn't harden up on me while I do this. Do the ARP studs come with good directions when it comes to sealing and lubing the studs? really want to use these studs because they are the best, you can re-use them, and they pull from the block, and push from the head, where the bolts just pull from the block. And I don't have to use a degree measure for these, just torque specs. The degree measure is a pain for some of the bolts, and I want it to be perfect.

Thanks,

[FDNYBullitt]

The ARP studs come with good instructions and you don't use any sealer on the threads in the block so there is no problem with getting it all over things. Once installed with the heads in place is when you use the Moly-lube, on the threads, washers and nuts for torquing purposes. Follow the directions and you'll be fine, good luck.

[Alfaduetto]

Can you loosen the motormounts and roll the engine one side at a time like a header change? Seems simpler that having to take the heads off and screw around with cam timing and gasket changes. BTW does Ford specify the torque sequence from Hell like on 3.8 V-6s? or is it just two or three steps on a cross pattern?