96 GT Dyno Results... - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016 Thread Starter
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96 GT Dyno Results...

Hey All.

Over the past couple of years I've been upgrading my 96 GT Convertible, it's an automatic 3.73 rear end. I have added all the bolt-ons. I have recently upgraded my heads to PI modded heads from MHS along with Stage 2 NA cams. Upper intake PI, 78mm TB, 24# injectors shorties, x-pipe, pullies etc.. and professionally tuned. Suspension is fully done too.

It dyno'd at 270 RWHP and 285 ft lbs. I was a bit disappointed, I was hoping for closer to 300; I was told when buying the heads I would be there, I'm not sure what happened... I really want to hit the 400 RWHP range but not sure at this point if I want to dump the 7K in a supercharger kit.

I'm interested to hear your thoughts about the 270. Don't get me wrong, I felt a significant gain and it sounds awesome, the car has only 69k and is in really nice condition.


I'm curious on your thoughts around the HP and putting on a supercharger.

Jim


1996 GT Convertible with all the bolt-ons, including upper PI swap.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016
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Seems a bit low. What were the weather conditions? What type of dyno?

Dynos are heartbreakers dude. I wouldn't be too butt hurt. There was guy on here awhile ago who had a similar setup and made the same numbers as you. He was obviously upset but he said he pulled hard on LSs. Numbers are numbers and I wouldn't worry too much about it.


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1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016 Thread Starter
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Seems a bit low. What were the weather conditions? What type of dyno?

Dynos are heartbreakers dude. I wouldn't be too butt hurt. There was guy on here awhile ago who had a similar setup and made the same numbers as you. He was obviously upset but he said he pulled hard on LSs. Numbers are numbers and I wouldn't worry too much about it.
I was hoping for more... but it is what it is. I'm not sure what type of dyno he used but the weather conditions were mid 80's and dry.

I can definitely feel the power increase difference. I'm contemplating a supercharger at this point but maybe next year.

1996 GT Convertible with all the bolt-ons, including upper PI swap.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016 Thread Starter
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I'm curious what type of gains I would get if I did a set of LT Headers? Anyone know if it's worth it? Right now I have shorties.

1996 GT Convertible with all the bolt-ons, including upper PI swap.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016
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Quote:
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I'm curious what type of gains I would get if I did a set of LT Headers? Anyone know if it's worth it? Right now I have shorties.
Going from shorties and off road pipe to long tubes and off road pipe would get you a bit more, but I personally do not think it would be worth the money and hassle. Some people don't even see gains between the two. With your cams and heads you would probably gain more than the average person with stock stuff.

If you are going blower than it won't matter so save the money and put it towards the blower.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016
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96 GT Dyno Results...

270 is in about the ballpark of what I would've guessed. With the npi heads you started with 200 or less rwhp. So you made a pretty big jump from stock. I'm thinking that bolt-on 99-04 GT's usually put down somewhere around 250 rwhp or so, so you still came out ahead of those guys, but I don't think very many of them make 300 stockish head, bolt-ons and a cam swap. TB's and MAF's won't make any extra power until the stock ones are too small and become a restriction. Your auto also will make for lower dyno numbers. Long-tubes might help but I don't know if they'll put you that much closer to 300 and or if they'd be worth the hassle.
If it's running nice and strong I wouldn't sweat the numbers. Take it to the track and see what happens. No need to spend $7k on a supercharger, get a $3k-$4k centrifugal kit. With the blower you should make at least 100 more hp.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016 Thread Starter
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If I were to go with the Vortech Centrifugal Supercharger Kit what else would I need? Would I have to upgrade my injectors etc..?

1996 GT Convertible with all the bolt-ons, including upper PI swap.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016
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Should have shaved the heads .050" and increased the compression some more. Then long tubes would have made a bigger difference.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016
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Quote:
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If I were to go with the Vortech Centrifugal Supercharger Kit what else would I need? Would I have to upgrade my injectors etc..?


You could use the fmu that comes with the kit and it'll work ok after you get a new tune. But if you have the money you'd be better off with larger injectors, like 42 #'ers. You won't have to get a new maf with either route, the maf and injector "calibration" will be handled via the tune.


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I still can't help but feel like something is a little off here. Either your car's tune or the dyno, not really sure. But hoping for 290-300 rw was definitely not an unrealistic expectation on your part. As mentioned though it's not the numbers that really matter it's how it runs.

Thinking about it though, 270rw = approx 320 at the flywheel. Which is give or take a 100 hp increase from stock.

As far as blowers, you don't have to spend $7K. Look at and itemize what's included in the all inclusive kits that usually go for $5K or more and you can piece it all together for around $3.5K. JPC Racing has Procharger head units (P1SC) for about $2200; you just need to get a bracket, plumbing, heat exchanger and figure out your fuel system after that. Have someone email you a startup tune so you can baby it to the dyno and with the mods you already have I would think very moderate boost (like 7-8psi) would get you very very close to 400rw.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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Do you have the graph? How high did they rev it?


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