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Supercharger for 2002

2K views 21 replies 4 participants last post by  sleeper bird 
#1 ·
Purchasing a used sc for my 2002 vert,car has around 140,000 miles.The sc comes with everything but fuel injectors and high flow fuel pump.Upon reading the procharger instructions it stated to run colder plugs,anyone have any suggestions on those and injectors and such.I would like to do it once.Also i have bama lifetime tunes although i think they are hit or miss but it might be ok untill i can get it tuned on a dyno.
 
#2 ·
1) Do not run the Bama tune with the supercharger. Get a tuning session setup at a shop, they will email you a start up tune to get the car there. If they don't go to a different shop.
2) DO NOT RUN THE BAMA TUNE
3) A step colder should be fine. NGK TR-6s are a common choice. Gap them around .035 for now and close it up if need,
4) 39s or 42s shoudl be enough injector but it kind of depends. Every car is different.
5) Get a 255lph or larger pump. I know the Walbro 255 drop in assembly is probably plenty of pump for your application.
6) DO NOT RUN THE BAMA TUNE
 
#7 ·
Depends on a few things, mostly how much boost you intend to run. If shooting for the limits of stock internals (8-10 psi/400 rw, give or take) I would say that 39# is pretty common. A much more concise answer can be had by speaking directly with whoever you intend to tune the car when it's done.
 
#9 ·
I'm making 330 at the wheels at 8 psi boost and I'm using 19# injectors and vortech's fmu. When I had it tuned the dyno guy recommend 42# injectors if I wanted to not use the fmu.
Your stock maf is fine. The tune will take care of the injector size swap so there's no need to buy a maf that's "calibrated"'for the new injectors.
Speaking of tuning- It's very important on a forced induction car. N/A my car made 223 rear horse, the first pull on the dyno after adding 8 psi only made 240 some odd horse because it was wicked lean. After the tuning was over it made 332. Don't beat on it until you have a good tune.
 
#11 ·
http://www.americanmuscle.com/deatschwerks-dv2-injectors-42lb-8604.html
Or cheaper
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/acc-150844
What I would do is find a tuner first and see what they want you to do and have prior to tuning before I bought anything. Mainly find out what kind of tuning software they use. If they want you to buy another maf I'd go somewhere else if there was another place to go. I don't think I'd do a remote tune or any kind of tune where data was emailed back and forth. I think it'd take too long to get it right and the "expert" wouldn't be there too actually see what's going on. At the dyno a few pulls and a few clicks of the mouse and you'll be done.
I'm not sure if you have an intercooler or not, but if you don't it's not a necessity at 8-10 psi.
As for the colder spark plugs get one step down, copper works well.


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#13 ·
They use sct,what they were saying was they will email a start up tune to get me to the shop about 10 miles.on the maf they didnt tell me to get one i was just making an uninformed guess.Another member suggested ngk plugs.tr-6.As far as the sc the head unit has no play whatsoever might send it in to have it checked out anyway.I am still collecting things needed right now for the install.Oh and yes it does have a front mount inter cooler.cant really progress much right now due to sending it into the tuner to have them check the health of the engine they came back with a laundry list of things that need to be done first.engine mount needs to be changed,hydro-boost leak,evap code (not sure there) rear main leak.Thanks for the feedback
 
#14 ·
The rear main seal can wait unless it's leaking so bad that you have to add oil all the time. I'm not saying to not have it done but if you didn't notice it until they looked at it, it won't hurt performance. Just make sure it's not low on oil. There's plenty of older mustangs with a leaking rear main. When you do have it replaced it'd be a good time to replace the clutch if you have the extra money. If you don't get a new clutch out of the deal you end up with a lot of labor for a $20 seal.


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#15 ·
Oh and for the evap code, don't let them charge you to trace that down and fix it. A tuner can "tune around" a vacuum leak to get a car running if they wanted to. If you didn't notice you had a problem then it's not serious enough to where they shouldn't be able to tune it. The evap is an emissions thing anyway.
I'd go to another place. It sounds like they gave you a list of things so they could milk you dry even prior to tuning.


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#17 ·
How much power are you looking at?
 
#18 ·
I'm using vortech's version of boost-a-pump, the "t-Rex," and the oem (high mile) in-tank pump. It's adequate enough for the 330 rear horsepower I'm making, but if I was to shoot for 400 I'd get a 255 in-tank and ditch the inline pump.
Make sure your guy tunes the sht out of it.


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