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Unread 12-30-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default Is my 2002 Mustang GT Fuel Pump Driver Module bad ?

My Mustang 2002 GT just stopped running, like it ran out of gas. Which I thought it did, because I was very low on gas, but the Low Fuel Light did not turn on. I put gas in it, but it has not started since the failure. My scanner reported a 1234 code, which is a Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) offline code. I had difficulty finding the FPDM, but have now found it. It is located on the driver side, inside the trunk, near the Inertia switch but behind the trim panels. The part number on the module is XR3F-9D372-AE.
Does anyone know if this is a high failure item on 2002 Mustang GTs? What are the odds that my scanner is correct? I have seen posts where the FPDM sends 25% duty cycle pulses on the Fuel Pump Monitor (FPM) line to the PCM to indicate that it is defective.
Does anyone know how to bypass the FPDM to test that the car will start without it?
Thanks,
Bob
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Unread 12-30-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Default Bypass

Quote:
Originally Posted by sdpony2004 View Post
My Mustang 2002 GT just stopped running, like it ran out of gas. Which I thought it did, because I was very low on gas, but the Low Fuel Light did not turn on. I put gas in it, but it has not started since the failure. My scanner reported a 1234 code, which is a Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) offline code. I had difficulty finding the FPDM, but have now found it. It is located on the driver side, inside the trunk, near the Inertia switch but behind the trim panels. The part number on the module is XR3F-9D372-AE.
Does anyone know if this is a high failure item on 2002 Mustang GTs? What are the odds that my scanner is correct? I have seen posts where the FPDM sends 25% duty cycle pulses on the Fuel Pump Monitor (FPM) line to the PCM to indicate that it is defective.
Does anyone know how to bypass the FPDM to test that the car will start without it?
Thanks,
Bob
This is an unusual problem, but not unheard of. Some things to double check first...

Look for a blown fuse. It would be located in the engine compartment box (probably), though there is another fuse box inside the passenger compartment as well.

I have had to do this sort of repair twice. Once it was a blown fuse. The other time was a wire in the harness running to the PCM from the FPDM was damaged. It is of course also possilbe that the FPDM is damaged.

Make sure you push the red button on the Inertial switch (just for luck).

As for bypassing the FPDM, I've never done that so I cannot guide you there.

stan
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Unread 01-01-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Smile

Thanks for the response tripleblack. I have verified 12v at pin 9 of the FPDM, so the inertia switch is not the problem; although a good possibility ( I was hoping it was the problem). I also verified pin 2 of the FPDM to chassis ground. I am going to measure the resistance across the fuel pump motor windings, measuring at the FPDM plug. I would expect to measure less than 100 ohms (guessing). Also, I will try to measure resistance between the PCM and the FPDM.
Thanks again
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Unread 01-02-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Default

Here is the way to check the FPDM acording to the ford manual for the Mustang Hope this can help
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Is my 2002 Mustang GT Fuel Pump Driver Module bad ?-fpdm-check.png  
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Unread 10-21-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Default FPDM support

hi John,
i am having trouble with my car not starting and i have narrowed it down to the fuel system. i can not find anything about the fpdm in the Haynes repair manual. I noticed you had a drawing of the cable pinouts. Is it saying to replace FPDM if voltage is greater than 10.5 volts? I guess what i am trying to say is couldnt the pump still be bad? Do you have anymore documentation on the FPDM?Any info would be appreciated!! Thanks.
-rey
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Unread 10-22-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Default 10.5

Quote:
Originally Posted by screecho6 View Post
hi John,
i am having trouble with my car not starting and i have narrowed it down to the fuel system. i can not find anything about the fpdm in the Haynes repair manual. I noticed you had a drawing of the cable pinouts. Is it saying to replace FPDM if voltage is greater than 10.5 volts? I guess what i am trying to say is couldnt the pump still be bad? Do you have anymore documentation on the FPDM?Any info would be appreciated!! Thanks.
-rey
If its more than 10.5, the FPDM should be replaced.
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Unread 10-22-2008   #7 (permalink)
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FPDM have been in use on Mustangs since 1999 and there all the same for V6's & V8's and although I sell alot of them (mostly to shops like Zone 5 or VMP) I can honestly say, since they've been in service, I've never sold one due to a circuit failure.....that doesn't mean thay can't/won't fail but I haven't seen any issues out of them....yet
 
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Unread 10-22-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah I have to agree with Randy,I have only seen one bad FPDM since they have been out and that was on a 99 Cont.

Try powering the fuel pump up manually first, Hot to pin 10 on the FPDM(BN/PK) and ground to pin 3 RD/BK. If pump runs ok and builds pressure then load test the 2 wires from FPDM to PCM. Pin 7 of FPDM to pin 40 of PCM (LB/OG) and pin 1 of FPDM to pin 80 of PCM (WH/RD).You can do this by unhooking connectors at each component then take a headlight bulb or and 1157 bulb hook one end of bulb to batt pos then hook other end to one of the mentioned ckts then ground the other end of the ckt and see if bulb lights up,if it does then wire is good and capable of carrying aload. If it lights before u hook up the ground u have a short to power,if u hook light to batt neg then to ckt if it lights u have a short to ground.
If wire passes a load test and pump runs then it is either the FPDM or PCM. If u have access to a good scan tool u should be able to perform data logger and manually control the duty cycle which would be able to pinpoint which one it is, otherwise it would just be a guess.
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Unread 10-23-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks alot for the support guys.I will try this.
Anyone know the location of the fuel pump relay?
thanks,
-rey
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Unread 10-23-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by screecho6 View Post
Thanks alot for the support guys.I will try this.
Anyone know the location of the fuel pump relay?
thanks,
-rey

It is in the CCRM but u said earlier u had power on pin 9 so that should eliminate the relay and the inertia switch.
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Unread 10-24-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Default Update

Checked voltage going to FPDM from inertia switch and it was about 11.9V. I also checked resistance from fuel pump BN/PK & RD/BK, it read open. Then I applied 12V and I could not hear pump turn on. Must be the pump?
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Unread 10-24-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by screecho6 View Post
Checked voltage going to FPDM from inertia switch and it was about 11.9V. I also checked resistance from fuel pump BN/PK & RD/BK, it read open. Then I applied 12V and I could not hear pump turn on. Must be the pump?


well if it is the fuel pump, I'd replace the stocker wth a SVT Focus fuel pump, alot cheaper and alows you some room to make mods
 
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Unread 02-14-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Default 2003 GT Mustang 4.6L V-8 won't start!

My son has a 2003 GT Mustang with a 4.6L V-8 engine. While driving, his engine just died out, just like sdpony's 2004 Mustang did, and has not started up since. I hooked up my scanner and several codes came up, of which two codes are fuel related. They are: P1233 Fuel pump driver disabled, and P1237 Fuel pump secondary circuit FP. I did some checks, such as checking on the fuses. They are ok, I worked my way up to the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch. With the switch in the down position, meaning pressed all the way down, I do have voltage on the wire coming from the Constant Control Relay Module, and I do have voltage on the wire that runs from this Inertia Switch to the Fuel Pump Driver Module. I disconnected the wire connector from the Fuel Pump Driver Module and I was about to do the test that jjandascog has listed in his thread. I'm a bit confused about that procedure. Perhaps I'm misinterpreting what is being said. Are you saying to disconnect the FPDM from the cars body, or from the wire connector? I just need clarification on that. Ok, since I do have voltage at the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch, I would assume that the Fuel Pump Relay is working properly, is that correct? Now, I would like to power up the fuel pump manually to see if it works. To do this, I must have the wire connector disconnected from the Fuel Pump Driver Module, correct? I must then run a postive lead from the battery to pin 10 which is the black/pink wire, and a ground lead to pin 3 which is the red/black wire. So, if the fuel pump does work, I should hear it pumping, as if I had turned the ignition switch to the on position, correct? At this point, if I don't hear the fuel pump running, would it be safe to say that the culprit is the fuel pump? If it is the problem, do I have to drop the fuel tank to replace it? How big of a job is it? Thank you for your support.
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Unread 02-14-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Default Fpdm

Yes, re-read Chuck's post above for those instructions. You just need to pull the connector from the FPDM to access the plug for testing. Be careful doing the manual bypass, take your time, follow all the steps.

A few questions...

Were there recent modifications to the audio or alarm system on the car? Remote starter? We often see problems like this downstream of those installs.

It is also possible to have PATS issues with replacement keys. Have you recently damaged or replaced the keys?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Mustang View Post
I disconnected the wire connector from the Fuel Pump Driver Module and I was about to do the test that jjandascog has listed in his thread. I'm a bit confused about that procedure. Perhaps I'm misinterpreting what is being said. Are you saying to disconnect the FPDM from the cars body, or from the wire connector? I just need clarification on that. Ok, since I do have voltage at the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch, I would assume that the Fuel Pump Relay is working properly, is that correct? Now, I would like to power up the fuel pump manually to see if it works. To do this, I must have the wire connector disconnected from the Fuel Pump Driver Module, correct? I must then run a postive lead from the battery to pin 10 which is the black/pink wire, and a ground lead to pin 3 which is the red/black wire. So, if the fuel pump does work, I should hear it pumping, as if I had turned the ignition switch to the on position, correct? At this point, if I don't hear the fuel pump running, would it be safe to say that the culprit is the fuel pump? If it is the problem, do I have to drop the fuel tank to replace it? How big of a job is it? Thank you for your support.
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Unread 02-14-2009   #15 (permalink)
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Yes, he did have an after market audio system installed. Not recent though, it has been in for a while. What he has noticed is that when his fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank, he is actually near an empty tank. I think this is how he got in trouble with this fuel pump. My thouigh is he has been consistantly running his engine on a near empty tank and the fuel pump over a period of time just burnt ifself out. How does the after market audio installs, tie in to these problems? Thank you, Tommy.
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