Discuss True Horsepower gains for popular mods..... on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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Awesome find! This is a really good thread, and I agree that it should be stickied!
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-1994 Mustang GT... K&N filter,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 14*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16 Just added: GT40 tubular intake (painted by ME!) -Check profile for pics of our car collection! -Member of MBMCustoms Car Club - AmericanMuscle ROCKS!!
And I don't mean to get off track but something's bugging me.
Why do some throw thousands into their engine, transmission, build the rear, make an awesome car... and then scrimp on the oil and fluids? Yes, synthetic is more expensive but it's far superior to conventional in all properties. It has higher tensile strength, higher sheer strength, and doesn't drain completely off the parts, making practically a pre-oiled start. Conventional oil takes approximately 150 psi to squeeze it out from two surfaces, synthetic takes nearly 3000 psi to do the same. What could that do to internal rotating parts?
Don't scrimp on the fluids, every dollar doesn't have to go into making power, how about longevity?
I always hear the argument "if synthetic is better, why don't we have it from the factory?". It's because they want you to buy a new car every 3 years, they don't WANT you to know about it.
Pay the $5 a quart, walk right by the 89 cent store brand. Your $8000 engine deserves the better product.
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MOOG Certified Tech. For mods and sound clips, see profile and gallery.
Member: NMRA Member: White Mustang Registry #362 Member: Fuzzy Dicer
Yes there IS another side to the power-making coin and that is to reduce parasitic HP losses. Synthetic lubes in engine/tranny/diff can yield a ~2% gain in rwhp so that's a good place to start but there's more. Don't forget about reducing HP-robbing oil windage in the engine (thinner oil, windage tray, crank scraper), and underdrive pulleys also reduce the HP that's robbed by the accessories (water pump being the biggest HP thief).
yeah i imagine it a little overboard for the street. i plan on building my 88' for street and strip so every bit helps. i'm leaning towards buying a built dart motor, i dont have too many if any good speed shops around unless i go to jersey.
i was leaning towards a 331 with FI and a bottle with full susp. upgrades.
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1988 T-Topped GT 5 speed
BBK equal shorties
Pypes O/R X
Pypes Violator Catback
3.73 gears w/ 03-04 cobra track-lok clutch kit
MAF Conversion
K&N Drop in
i know it's not practical for most street cars, but what about a dry sump oil system? turning an oil pump takes LOTS of power, and you can see for yourself. next time you change your oil, notice what rpm the engine idles at for that couple of seconds before the oil pressure builds. the rpm will drop off by like 1000 rpm once the oil pressure builds. think about it, it takes 1000 rpm worth of power to turn the oil pump at idle. thats gotta be about 15-20 hp.
the horsepower gains with all parts mentioned, about 2% of it goes to the wheels, with everything i have my car, i should be 300+ at the wheels, and the dyno doesnt lie, i mean all the parts mentioned are very popular and they mostly work, but the best bolt ons for your money, is heads, intake manifolds, headers, and rotating assemblies if you wish to go that far, those are true bolts, the other are like the fast food bolt ons, if you match your heads to the intake, and exhaust i:e. port match, make sure the facts on the parts you buy work with what you want to achieve, you can buy a huge cam and think wow im going to make power, but if you have stock heads and the small valves it houses, and think its going to work you've been lied too, im not trying to 1up anyone, but lets face it ,better flowing heads and intakes are going to rule over any electric water pump, cold air intake, bigger throttle, etc...
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1993 LX 5.0 stock long block, 1.7 crane roller rockers, cobra valve springs, explorer intake upgrade, 65mm throttle body, 80mm maf ,Moroso CAI,Shorty BBK headers,BBK Adj fuel reg, BBK underdrive pulleys, electric fan, B303 cam, off-road Hpipe, 40series flowmasters, 3:73 gears, Alum drive shaft, King Cobra clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, BBK gripp LCA,190lph fuelpump,Moates Burn2 Chip Programmer, with EEC-IV bank reader
well yeah i think most of it was to squeeze out that little extra to give an edge at the track. cause we all know tq gets ya moving but hp is what makes ya win.
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1988 T-Topped GT 5 speed
BBK equal shorties
Pypes O/R X
Pypes Violator Catback
3.73 gears w/ 03-04 cobra track-lok clutch kit
MAF Conversion
K&N Drop in
