the only problem to use one on a street car it is expensive....
On a basic DD with 300 flywheel HP? Doubtful.
How often would you be willing to change an electric pump on a street car as well? Until they make one as durable as a belt driven pumps -- and they haven't because in today's CAFE and emissions ruled automotive industry; OEM's would be using them right now -- I'm not swapping.
How often would you be willing to change an electric pump on a street car as well? Until they make one as durable as a belt driven pumps -- and they haven't because in today's CAFE and emissions ruled automotive industry; OEM's would be using them right now -- I'm not swapping.
Just my thoughts on it.
I was looking at the elec. wp. Then I seen the price!!
So this leads to my question. We all know the car runs better when It's cooler. would a up grade water pump and radiator help keep your hp.
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When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
--Thomas Jefferson
in theory yes it would, but it would be on a efficency scale, not HP increase, but remeber if you have no computer tunes the cold the engine gets the more fuel the car dumps, now sound great right more fuel more power, its the oppsite the stock engine and computers are programmed to read one way, the adaptive learning segement of the ECU will acccount for about 12-25% difference, its like wiping your A** with sand paper.....lol, high flow pumps would be a better option and better streetability, if you take the cost of all the hypes in bolt on, you'll find that heads, cams and intakes, and block designed to produce more power, will save you money in the long run, it looks like a big bill at first but, sit down write down the parts that are bolt-on, then make a list with true bolt on's heads, cams, intakes, and see what comes up with more denarios, now im not nieve heads, cam, intakes can be expensive, but your going to produce power you can feel, and the numbers will show
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1993 LX 5.0 stock long block, 1.7 crane roller rockers, cobra valve springs, explorer intake upgrade, 65mm throttle body, 80mm maf ,Moroso CAI,Shorty BBK headers,BBK Adj fuel reg, BBK underdrive pulleys, electric fan, B303 cam, off-road Hpipe, 40series flowmasters, 3:73 gears, Alum drive shaft, King Cobra clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, BBK gripp LCA,190lph fuelpump,Moates Burn2 Chip Programmer, with EEC-IV bank reader
in theory yes it would, but it would be on a efficency scale, not HP increase, but remeber if you have no computer tunes the cold the engine gets the more fuel the car dumps, now sound great right more fuel more power, its the oppsite the stock engine and computers are programmed to read one way, the adaptive learning segement of the ECU will acccount for about 12-25% difference, its like wiping your A** with sand paper.....lol, high flow pumps would be a better option and better streetability, if you take the cost of all the hypes in bolt on, you'll find that heads, cams and intakes, and block designed to produce more power, will save you money in the long run, it looks like a big bill at first but, sit down write down the parts that are bolt-on, then make a list with true bolt on's heads, cams, intakes, and see what comes up with more denarios, now im not nieve heads, cam, intakes can be expensive, but your going to produce power you can feel, and the numbers will show
Thats the next round!
H/C/I, I just havent bought any because so many companys out there give bunk hp numbers.
Dose anyone have any results on what gains they got with there
h/c/i?
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When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
--Thomas Jefferson
every engine is different, every condition is different, basing your purchase on others is going to be to vague, what you'll need to do is read up on engine building, a good book is building an engine on a budget, or building and blueprinting and engine, you can get these on amazon, or barnes and nobles, read these and try to understand it the best you can, i learned from actually doing the work myself, that is the route i chose but reading and knowledge will be your most powerful asset, but with that said im saying dont take your buddies word or completely ignore everyone else, but like noted above, everything is different, car, and driving habits, and actaul application. the best feeling is knowning when buying your parts you know what they will do not because the box says it will, knowning engine characteristics and how different things come into play when adding different things
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1993 LX 5.0 stock long block, 1.7 crane roller rockers, cobra valve springs, explorer intake upgrade, 65mm throttle body, 80mm maf ,Moroso CAI,Shorty BBK headers,BBK Adj fuel reg, BBK underdrive pulleys, electric fan, B303 cam, off-road Hpipe, 40series flowmasters, 3:73 gears, Alum drive shaft, King Cobra clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, BBK gripp LCA,190lph fuelpump,Moates Burn2 Chip Programmer, with EEC-IV bank reader
GT-40X 64CC Chamber
240 cfm at .550" lift (at 28" of H20) Intake
170 cfm at .500" lift (at 28" of H20) Exhaust
1.94 intake valve and 1.54 exhaust
TrickFlow 61CC Chamber twisted wedge
251 cfm at .500" lift (at 28" of H20) intake
187 cfm at .500" lift (at 28" of H20) exhaust
2.02 intake valve and 1.60 exhaust
Im going to touch lighty on certain chamber and head/piston charaterisics
TrickFlow
With those numbers we can see the heads flow similar to each other, but keep in mind the trickflows have bigger valves the flow will be more effective over the intake and exhaust, the Combustion chamber are smaller resulting in high cylinder pressure.
GT-40x
we can see the GT-40x flows alittle less then trickflow, due to smaller valve diameter and bigger combustion chambers, equates to less cylinder pressure, number wise the TrickFlows out flow the GT-40X heads but remember not always will bigger valves give you more horsepower, the piston design must match the charaterics of the combustion chamber to flow and produce power effectively, but again these are all numbers dont be surprised if you buy either of the heads and you come up short on the dyno with a stock bottom end, everything must be in perfect harmony to make these number a reality
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1993 LX 5.0 stock long block, 1.7 crane roller rockers, cobra valve springs, explorer intake upgrade, 65mm throttle body, 80mm maf ,Moroso CAI,Shorty BBK headers,BBK Adj fuel reg, BBK underdrive pulleys, electric fan, B303 cam, off-road Hpipe, 40series flowmasters, 3:73 gears, Alum drive shaft, King Cobra clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, BBK gripp LCA,190lph fuelpump,Moates Burn2 Chip Programmer, with EEC-IV bank reader
"Unbalanced" is the key word. To me, the difference ain't worth 200 bucks. I'll spend that amount of money on something better. For example, Explorer intake manifold.
I'm new to the world of mustangs with computers and FI. I have read very intently just about everything in this thread. There are SO MANY abreviations i don't know what things are. So here it is. I recently bought an 86 bone stock vert. 5.0. The rearend makes an odd sound, I feel like it is a yoke bearing. The thread I read makes me question if I can do the work myself. I wanna go fast engine. What are some good HP producing bolt-ons should I start with? The throttle body, what mm? and is everything I do going to require to find a dino shop to see if I did the right thing? Also, as the guy said, do I just save my money go to the junk yard find myself a roller motor (and what years were they produced) and build from scratch. I have no firends that are mustang enthusiasts. Did all ya'll feel a little more weight from me leaning on ya? Merry Christmas evrybody
Yes that was an abr. i did get. H/C/I . thank you . I believe I do have 3.73s the rear end sounds like a washing machine . it go waaaaaa waaaa waaa waa but after the waa it dosen't get faster as the car does it just becomes for defined. Did that make sense?
To me, the difference ain't worth 200 bucks. I'll spend that amount of money on something better. For example, Explorer intake manifold.
