The 86' has a speed density and crappy E6 heads. But, don't panic. Start slowly, little by little. Start with basic things such as removing the air silencer and putting a K&N panel filter, installing 2.5 inch off road H or X pipe(if you live in a emission restrictive state, buy one with the high-flow cats). A high flow muffler, slp, magnaflow, 40 series 2 chamber flowmasters, etc.. Look up in google about modifying 5.0's. I learned lots of cool stuff and that's how I found this forum and other forums I'm part of.
__________________
1993 Mustang GT Convertible
*Reef blue over titanium, 89,000 original miles
*original 3.27 gears with AOD
I have been fooling around with the 5.0L mustangs for years and the only bolt on I have seen that adds any serious gains in performance is a supercharger. Yea, you can change gears and you loose top end, or you can employ the 'snake oil' fixes and gain 5 - 15 H.P. if you're lucky. But shy of replacing the heads, intake and cam, the superchargers they offer for the 5.0L engine offer up the most usable horsepower and torque I have ever seen for a stock 5.0L Mustang.
The biggest problem i see, when upgrading with a supercharger, is being able to keep from smoking the rear tires. Larger, more sticky tires and some suspension mods, geared toward increased traction and reduced wheel hop, are generally the next mods after the supercharger upgrade.
I know that one major problem with most people is the fact that they do want to throw aprts at a car and expect great numbers and usually get pissed off. Cold air intakes are good. Mufflers are good. The one thing I see all the time is most people dont stop to think about what they are doing. Your engine is a glorified air pump. With that said, everything has to balance in and out. Granted I would have to agree somewhat that H/C/I would be a great improvement over stock and the most noticeable increase for bolt ons. But you cant throw in a good healthy cam, heads with big valves, and a fat free flowing exhaust if you dont have the proper intake to support how much you are trying to push out of a motor. Throttle bodies and cold airs might give you 10hp. Now go back to stock intake then to a HCI swap. Dyno your car and then put the TB and cold air back on and see if you still only get 10hp. you will probably get more. The more air in, the more fuel you need, the more spark and compression you need to light it, and the more flow you need to release it down the pipe.
i just bought a 1989 notchback with a msd 6-al and blaster coil the person i bought it off of said the timing was set at 16*...i would get on the gas and it would ping really bad so i check the timing and it was at 16* so i set it to 10* to see what would happen the motor stopped shaking in the engine bay and ran alot better but still pings i lil not alot so what next??????timing chain an gears???
re tard the timing a bit more or disconnect the msd and go back to stock. With the msd you now have a whole lot more spark energy than stock. It is possible it is trying to ignite prematurely because of the hotter spark. What are the spark plugs gapped at? They should be gapped above stock with the msd. Approx. .10-.15 over stock. Also, you could try running a slightly colder spark plug. Has the engine been rebuilt and what is the compression at? That can cause detonation aswell. Try running 91 instead of 87. If you are try dumping some 91% or higher isoprophyl alcohol in the tank.about 1/2 a gallon to a full tank shold be anough to start with.
i really dont kno whats done to the motors inside,but im gonna do a compression test soon before i do a h/c/i swap,so u think i should check the plug gap???cuz i run 93 fuel or should i mess wit timing
I think you guys are starting to drink the coolaide......Oil now? I think you could get the same variation in successive dyno pulls if the engine was warm or cold...
And I don't mean to get off track but something's bugging me.
Why do some throw thousands into their engine, transmission, build the rear, make an awesome car... and then scrimp on the oil and fluids? Yes, synthetic is more expensive but it's far superior to conventional in all properties.
Don't scrimp on the fluids, every dollar doesn't have to go into making power, how about longevity?
An important note about synthetic oil I'd like to add is that I keep reading on various sites not to use synthetic oil during engine break in. Supposedly conventional oil allows better seating of engine components during an engines break in period. Even AmsOil synthetic says this on their site. They recommend conventional oil for the first 500 miles on gasoline engines then switching over to synthetic.
Im wondering if you guys can maybe give me an guesstimate WHP in my current status!?
91 convertible..T5 2.95-1st .64-5th, CAI, BBK equal lenght, king cobra clutch, electric fan, GT40(tubular) upper/lower Intake, Accel Billet distributor, MSD cap/rotor, Taylor 8mm plug wires, NGK V-power plugs, H-pipe(mid pipe), Magnaflow catback, Strange adjustble shock/strut, FRPP-b spring, aluminum radiator, aluminum driveshaft?
and any advise on what else should I do?
Future mods: tubular upper/lower control arm, 3.55 gear, MM subframe connector, 65mm throttlebody/EGR plate, 65mm maf 24lbs.
I havn't heard much about UIM/LIM as far as power gains!
They are a pretty simple bolt on and just about every company makes claims of "gains you can feel", but does anyone have any dyno numbers from these parts on a stock engine??
BBK says that their SSI manifolds produce 18-35 hp, and the SSI-R manifolds makes 19 more than the original SSI...
Has anyone used these parts? Are the clames true?
__________________
88 GT 5.0L/5 spd:
5 lug conversion, 18" wheels, 3:73s, BBK cai/equal length shorties/OR H-pipe Flowmasters, Hurst shifter, UD crank pulley, Intrax lowering springs, MSD cap/rotor/coil, Ford Racing 9mm wires, relocated battery. Parts to be installed: 347 Stroker(forged Scat crank/forged Manley H-beams/forged KB pistons), BBK SSI upper/lower, E5 heads professionally ported/polished with 1.7s and 1.94/1.60 valves, custom cam, Powerdyne SC! Full Throttle Automotive
Reading, PA 610-685-7025