well i wanted to do all of the internals. starting with a nice crank, rods, high compression pistons, that way i wont have to tear into it again unless i run across 5k and want to go supercharged. and i decided on not getting a cam for the rebuild and waiting until i have the intake heads and headers, that way i can get a custom ground cam for my applications. i just need to find a good set of heads for not too much cash.
yeah i am leaning torwards eagle, i saw a 331 kit that i like but its pricy. im thinking about going edelbrock heads. are there any other heads that are not too expensive that will work with the performer intake?
Just wondering with no back pressure on the exhaust system am i loosing power? now i have straight pipe with flowmaster 40 series and im thinking of taking out the mufflers and straight pipe but will it kill my power?
its not a daily so straight pipe being loud is ok.
yeah with no cats or mufflers even with the mid pipe you will lose power. i have an off road h-pipe with flowmasters and am switching to SLP LM1s because flowmasters are not loud enough. and the LMs will flow alot better with that kickass sound.
your exhaust is like a garden hose, if you dont have that little nozle at the end the water just pours out, but when you put the nozle on it pushes it out. same with mufflers and cats. each engine has its own mass of air it pushes out, obviously a big block will have more air mass so straight pipes with bullet mufflers are good on them. but with our little 5.0s we need more than that. chambered mufflers with off road exhaust are about the best ways to go for us.
so i have BBK HEADERS with h-pipe and flowmasters but no cats...it means i am losing power?
Yeah, I fell for the hype too.
I believe there is a lot of misinformation regarding the goodness of back pressure. I have read considerable amounts of theory that back pressure is desired. I have yet to see much of the theory backed up with good dyno data. The reverse is too true however. You are not going to pull the cats, throw on some huge tailpipes and experience a huge AVG power increase. Engine is just an air pump and you will soon find the next chokepoint somewhere upstream of your exhaust system.
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94GT, 306, T-5, AFR165, FTI Custom Cam, TMOSS ported Performer 75MM MAF, 70mm TB, 30# INJ, Shorties, forged flattops and Scat H-beams, KC Clutch, 3.73, MGW Shifter. 17" ET Streets, NX Nitrous. TWEECER tuned. 12.98 @105 No Spray. Still getting faster every time out!
I am trying to decide what to do for the money. It is between either a MAF conversion which i have heard mixed feeling about or a upper and lower GT 40 intake, larger throttle body, and gears. My gears are bone stock with the AOD. Let me know guys.. 88 GT 5.0 convertible AOD.
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1988 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Convertible. 51,400 Original Miles.
Mods: BBK Shorty Headers Chrome, MSD pre-crimped 8MM wires, MSD Blaster Coil, MSD Cap and Rotor, Ford Racing Radiator, Full March Performance Underdrive Pulleys, New HP Battery, Custom Built 10" Race Mufflers with turndowns, Custom CAI with silencer removed. AOD Transmission with TransGo Shift Improver and BG Products Full Synthetic Flush and treatment.
personally i prefer the crate motors, from frpp they have a wide variety to choose from. and you know what your going to get and they come with a warrenty. there is also a lot of other companies to choose from, unless you are building for a specific reason you really can't beat the crate motor for the money and it takes all the guess work out of it.
