That's a good explanation, I'll expand on it.
The stall speed of a converter is determined by several things. A converter is made up of 4 parts, the front cover, stator, impeller, and rear cover. Each part has fins inside it to direct the fluid around each part and by modifying these fin's angle, it changes the stall speed. Stall speed is essentially when the engine speed and fluid speed are the same, and stall speed is NOT when you're sitting at a stop and mash the gas while holding the brake. That rpm is NOT the stall speed, that's just where the engine torque overpowers the brakes and moves the car forward.
A higher stall speed allows the engine to get into the powerband quicker, like revving a clutch and quickly slipping it. Unlike a clutch, a converter doesn't get grabby or tempermental. But a higher stall speed creates more fluid slippage inside it, creating more heat so an auxiliary
trans cooler should be considered mandatory.
A higher stall speed can also take the shock out of the drivetrain when the
trans shifts, making it actually easier on parts.
The stall speed can also be affected by the engine it's behind. A converter that stalls at 2000 behind a stock small block could stall at 3800 behind a big block. This is why converters should be custom made for your combination for the best performance.
A manual valvebody is just that, manual. There is NO automatic shifting features in the
trans anymore, if you stop with it in third and not pull it into first, you'll take off in third. Think of it as a manual
trans without a clutch. I have one and the AOD really wakes up with one, I won't have another automatic AOD.