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This is an introduction to the first steps to take for increasing your 5.0L Mustangís performance. Although this article is built around the fuel-injected 5.0 liter Mustang most of whatís here applies to other Mustangs and many other cars.
Read all you can before you dive in. If you ask 50 people their opinions on what you should do youíll get 50 different answers! Thereís lots of information on the web and in Mustang magazines. Note that these specialty performance car magazines are not only there to help you enjoy the potential of your car more, but to sell their advertisers' parts. Look at the return on your investment before buying. Lots of parts suppliers are on the Web.
If youíre like most people youíll want to jump in first with straight-line performance enhancements. If you do then later youíll discover the weaknesses in the other areas of your car. Philosophy
This is a balanced approach, not just looking for the best quarter mile times, but a car that can turn and slow down too.
It wonít be necessary to rob a bank to afford these enhancements.
Want a streetable, reliable, legal car.
This isnít meant to be all-inclusive on how to buy a particular part, or even why you should do this instead of something else. Itís just meant to give you an idea of where to start researching.
Chassis stiffening Philosophy
If you want to accelerate hard or corner hard the Fox bodied chassis needs to have the flex taken out. If you have a convertible you should do this now whether you make any other changes to your car or not. When you corner hard and you carís body flexes the tire contact patches change and your alignment is thrown off. Tightening up Subframe connectors. This is the single best thing you can do for you chassis. Get weld-on connectors, not bolt-on. Strut tower brace. Get a three-point that bolts to the firewall, also. G Load or K member brace. For better turn-in.
These three together make a good basis for future modifications.
Any improvement you can afford to make is good. Most Fox bodied Mustangs have inadequate brakes. They fade too quickly in performance driving and lock up prematurely. Cheap braking improvements:
Change your brake fluid. Put in a good quality fluid.
Put on new brake lines. Stainless steel if you want, but just new rubber ones will help.
Replace the front Ford pads with something better.
Replace the front calipers.
Repack the front wheel bearings while you're in there.
Upgrading the rear drums to discs. This is an expensive undertaking, but worthwhile for performance applications.
Upgrading the front brakes. If you go to the expense of putting discs in the rear think about upgrading the fronts also. About 80% of your braking is done with the fronts.
Install a brake bias valve to allow manual adjusting of the front-to-rear brake bias. Get a better master cylinder.
You can buy kits that include all the necessary parts.
Running racing pads on the street. This is a quick way to ruin your expensive rotors. And racing pads don't stop very well when cold. You could be surprised some winter morning. Hard pads have to heat up before working their best, but they don't fade with repeated hard braking. Softer pads don't have to warm up much and are best for street conditions. Investigate and find the proper pads for your needs.
Not doing anything! There are lots of Mustangs running lots of HP upgrades with OEM brakes that were inadequate in a stock Mustang.
Straight line performance
Your engine makes power by pumping air. In general, the more air you can flow through the more horsepower. At some point you may have to improve the fuel and the ignition systems.
The basic rule is cubic inches equals more HP so if your displacement stays the same as you increase HP with modifications then something has to give. Modifications to increase HP usually moves that horsepower higher up in the RPMís and you may be robbing torque. This is OK for the drag strip, but not so good for the street or road course. You can fix this by changing you rear gears to bring that power back down to where you want it. Philosophy
First, work on increasing the flow of your intake and exhaust before getting into the engine. That is, look at the air intake, fuel intake and exhaust before worrying about cams and new cylinder heads. I donít cover superchargers or nitrous because they can cause lots of stress on an engine if not done correctly. Thereís careful investigation you need to do if youíre interested in one of these options.
More is not always better. Increasing one part too much will create a bottleneck elsewhere that can actually bog you down. Think of your engine as a complete system.
Once you go over about 300 HP you need to upgrade your fuel delivery and spark. Also, over 300 HP is where youíll find other weak links like your tranny, driveshaft and rear-end so this is where it starts getting expensive as the stress levels on your engine increase. Cheap horsepower gains:
Tune up Ė good quality plugs, wires, cap, rotor Clean injectors
Remove air silencer -- it's under the air box in the wheel-well
K&N air filter
Advance timing Ė experiment to see how high you can advance it and not have pinging. Synthetic fluids. Not a lot of HP gains, but definitely a good idea for you performance carís longevity. Change the motor oil, tranny and rear end to synthetics. Underdrive pulleys. Slows down your accessories, your alternator and A/C, that rob power. Warning: This may slow down your alternator enough to where it discharges at idle.
Lower (numerically higher) rear gear. 3.55 or 3.73ís are good all around gears.
Tuned cat-back exhaust. Just mufflers donít make much difference in HP. H pipe and high flow cats. Your stateís emissions laws determine what you can do.
Intake manifold, Extrude Honed or new, and a bigger throttle body. Stock TB is 60mm. Go to 65 for lightly modified cars. Then new cylinder heads.
Convert the Speed Density air intake to mass air metering. 1989-up ('88 for Calif. Mustangs) came with MAF. This probably only needs to be done for more highly modified cars, especially when increasing the air flow with a better intake, heads or cam. Even then, in many cases, Speed Density can work OK if you have a custom computer chip made for your modifications, but then if you change your car you may need to re-program the chip.
Too big of anything. Too big of a throttle body or carburetor, too large diameter of headers, etc. Ram air using hot under the hood air Ė cold air is denser therefore better. Draw the air from outside. Warning: Drawing air from under the car is a good way to suck up water, road kill, etc.
Using more octane than you need can actually rob power and will at least waste money.
Colder plugs Ė Maybe for the race track only
Putting a lot of money into fuel flow (fuel pump, injectors) and after-market ignition on a nearly stock engine. Computer Chips - Putting a chip on a stock or nearly stock engine is a waste of money. You can advance your timing yourself! Once you go into fairly heavy modifications then it's time to think about having a custom chip made to fit your particular engine, especially if you're experiencing drivability problems. Don't bother with an off-the-shelf chip on a stock engine -- put the money into something better.
So how much horsepower do you gain?
Part vendors make unsubstantiated claims. Other improvements move the horsepower way up in the rpm's so the car may actually feel slower around town. And since your engine is a system you may not realize the full potential of a particular upgrade until you do something else. All that said, here's a shot at estimates of horsepower increases for some popular modifications:
Underdrive pulleys -- 5 to 10 hp
Cat-back exhaust -- 10 hp
Headers -- 10 hp
H-pipe -- 5 hp
K&N-type air filter and remove air silencer-- 5 hp
Throttle body -- 5 to 10 hp
Intake manifold -- 15 hp
Don't forget about gears. No HP increase, of course, but the most performance bang-for-the-buck.
Hereís where "streetable" really comes into play with getting the right compromise between corning ability and a decent street ride. Itís easy to make the car ride so hard you actually lessen your carís ability to handle on the street as every little imperfection in a corner sends the car skittering off in the wrong direction. Cheap gains
Performance alignment. Get rid of the factory spec positive camber (causes understeer). Go for minimal toe in. Find a good alignment shop. Try Ė.5 to -2 deg camber, 1//16th toe-in.
Stiffer bushings at front sway bar, lower control arms and steering rack. These will be noisier than the stock rubber bushings (the newer polygraphite bushings don't squeak). If you have a higher mileage car just replacing these with new rubber ones would be helpful.
Lowering springs and new struts and shocks.This is a package. Do it all together. You probably shouldnít lower more than an inch-and-a-half if you use your car on the street. Donít get springs that are too stiff. Progressive rate springs are best to retain a good ride; linear rate will provide sharper turn in on the track. Camber plates to fine-tune the alignment on a lowered car. Aluminum steering rack bushings help control bump-steer, especially on a pre-90 lowered car. These later cars have redesigned tie rods that take care of this problem. Stronger control arms for better rear end bite when accelerating from a stop or out of a turn. Tires. If you want lower profile or wider tires get bigger wheels fitted with tires of the same circumference (called "+1" sizing).
Lowering the car too much. Gets into other problems with your suspension. Puts too much stress on the wrong parts of the chassis; canít get a good alignment. Thereís ways to fix this, but itís expensive.
Too stiff springs Cutting the stock springs. OK if you're doing it just for looks, but this doesn't work if you are interested in performance.
Keeping old struts and shocks when putting in new lowering springs. Likewise, putting expensive Konis in with high mileage springs.
Wide sticky tires with an otherwise old, stock suspension. It looks good, but itís a waste of money performance-wise on a soft suspension.
Letís assume you have a mostly stock 5.0L Fox bodied Mustang with a few miles on it and you want to enhance the performance, but youíre not quite sure where you will end up. This is a pretty typical starting point. So what do you do first? First step recommendations:
Tune up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor as needed. Check timing. Clean injectors if it hasnít been done in over 30k miles.
Change to synthetic fluids.
Remove the air silencer and put in a K&N-type air filter.
Get a performance alignment. Subframe connectors.
New brake lines, fluid and better fade resistant front pads.
If you were to have a shop do all of the above for you it would be about $800. Second step recommendations:
Finish off the chassis stiffening with a strut tower brace and G Load brace.
For straight line performance:
Exhaust headers and a cat-back tuned exhaust system
Springs, struts and shocks.
You're looking at about $2000 for all of these.
When you get into moderate improvements unless you know what you're doing think about buying a package whether it's a complete disc brake conversion or a suspension package. As I said before your engine, brakes and suspension can be thought of as a complete system. Changes to one part may cause problems elsewhere. If you go with a reputable company that has maybe engineered and at least tested all the components together you may have fewer problems then if you do things piecemeal. The disadvantage is a larger outlay of money at one time. Do Your Homework!
Have a plan if you go beyond the simple, basic changes. Where do you want to end up? Are you modifying for street use, drag racing, autocross, or open track? How important is a street drivable car? There will always be someone faster than you at the track, but they may not be able to drive their car on the street. If you commute 40 miles on the freeway everyday you may not want the 4.11 gears and the loud exhaust. If air conditioning is a necessity and you sit in stop-and-go traffic a lot then the cam and underdrive pulleys may be a bad idea.
Most modifications have a trade-off. You have to be aware of what they are so you can make an informed decision as to what's worth doing for your needs. There's a reason the Ford engineers built the car with the parts they did. Often it's just a matter of money, but their decisions may also be based on reliability and NVH (noise, vibration, harshness).
1990 Mustang GT,Mac Longtubes,Mac O/R H-pipe,Flo Master super44's Pro Dumps,Cold Air intake,Polished upper intake,King Cobra Clutch:happydancer:
AFM Site Administrator
Member: Mustang Club of America #82740, White Mustang Registry #362, NMRA, Fun Ford Weekend, Mustangs of Burlington MOOG Certified Technician For mods and sound clips, see profile and gallery.
Yes, I dont mind when people sign up to just ask a few questions here.... however, sometimes the same questions are asked everyday and it starts to get annoying. I figured this is why we have the sticky posts for people to see at the top, and not have to ask over, and over, and over again.
I try to keep my patience with temporary people just asking about their horsepower or what they should do next, or for a diagnosis on their problem only to never return or contribute their own insights...
I will continue to bite my tongue because that is why i joined this forum at first, but then became an active member.... I guess there is still a chance that the temporary people can become part of the family here...
1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
FMS Ceramic Shorties, pacesetter off road h, force mufflers, 3 row radiator, smog eliminator pulley, underdrive pullies, Yukon 3.55 gears, posi diff... Waiting in garage: rebuilt block, Crane 1.7 rr, bare GT40 cast heads, Summit billit distributor, 9mm plug wires, MSD blaster coil, GT40 upper and lower intake, E303 cam 70% of drivers say "oh Sh** when they hit ice, the other 30% are from Michigan and say "Hold my beer and watch this sh**!"
i think its a good thread...im trying to find things for this site so people dont have to ask everyone....right now im trying to look up common t5 tranny problems and so far i found some good things... maybe ill have to compile them and turn it into a big thread but we will see what happends
1990 Mustang GT,Mac Longtubes,Mac O/R H-pipe,Flo Master super44's Pro Dumps,Cold Air intake,Polished upper intake,King Cobra Clutch:happydancer:
Good info... I do think this info is actually on this website already, if it's not then I read this somewhere else before. This is good information still the same.
And yes, there are pages upon pages of questions that have been answered in all the forums. There have been many questions that have been asked multiple times. I do know though, that it's hard to find the right thread for your exact question though without searching for a couple hours.
-1994 Mustang GT "The Red Baron": 3.73 gears,K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16 -Check profile for pics of our car collection! - AmericanMuscle ROCKS!! - "True Hot-Rods don't have valve covers!"
The magical yet elusive search box that holds all the answers.
I think they just need to make the search box BIGGER so that more people would use it.
2014 V6 Deep Impact Blue Mustang, Borla Type S, 2.73 (Uughh need 3.73) 1989 Sonic Blue Mustang LX Coupe, 349 ci, 392 rwhp 424 rwtq....Mustang Dyno "There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers-
You gotta keep in mind though a lot of the new people,myself included,dont know how to navigate the site or use the tools right off the bat. I can sure turn a wrench,but my puter skills leave more to be desired.
When I first got my car I was all excited and a flood gate of questions,not really knowing how to get info for specifics cuz ah mi lak uv puter skilz.
However...some of the questions are really basic(annoying) and posted in one of the many stickys that you HAVE to pass over getting into the individual threads.