I agree with Reggie that 18's are a little much for a FOX.
This is just my opinion, but I've always like the 5 star racing wheels with a little bit taller sidewall tire on the FOX bodies. It gives it that look like you mean business!
Since your car is white, I would get chrome 5 star racing wheels!
If you want something else, I've always liked the chrome Cobra R wheels on the FOXes too...
But you should either go with 16" 5 star or 17" Cobra wheels. That is just my opinion though.
__________________
-1994 Mustang GT... K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16 -Check profile for pics of our car collection! -Member of MBMCustoms Car Club - AmericanMuscle ROCKS!! - "Save a horse, drive a Mustang!"
I agree with both ya I think 17's might b the limit but I'm willing to check it out and see with the pair that i got. And if nothing else I can use them on the other car. The upside is American Muscle sells the Bullitts in 17x8 and 9 so I can get by with that on the white car also. But I'm curious to see how these 18's look, but I do have a feeling that it may be wayyyyy to much rim with a slim sidewall.
awesome yeah UPR use to sell one but it wasn't around very long as far as I could tell. Additionally, it didn't look as complete as this one. Just got done ordering it thank you
awesome yeah UPR use to sell one but it wasn't around very long as far as I could tell. Additionally, it didn't look as complete as this one. Just got done ordering it thank you
always looking out for you....
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
Ok, so I think after surfing numeous threads on here I think I'm on the right track...(no pun intended) subject to your disecting it, I think this would work out alright. I have no expierence in setting the pinion angle will I have to look into this later? I would think this would be an issue if I went with adj UCA
I considered the Mega Bites, but I think I'm going to need the adjustablity perk
STRUTS / SHOCKS
Strange 10 Ways
SPRINGS
Currently have BBK(Progressive Springs) thinking about keeping them
New front lower A-arms with Hydra-bushings and low friction balljoints, offset rack bushings, swaybar endlink bushings, swaybar pivot bushings, and front/rear spring isolators. Quad shocks will be removed, if they aren't already
Also, looking at the rear diff, what do I need to be setting money aside for? I looked at people who's clutch paks went out and all that because the power was getting planted better and it tore up the rear end. I don't plan on LAUNCHING from every geen light in town , lol but longevity and durability are obviously things a person expects to pay for.
Ok, so I think after surfing numeous threads on here I think I'm on the right track...(no pun intended) subject to your disecting it, I think this would work out alright. I have no expierence in setting the pinion angle will I have to look into this later? I would think this would be an issue if I went with adj UCA
unless you are planning to do a lot of racing the is no real need for adjustable control arms
I considered the Mega Bites, but I think I'm going to need the adjustablity perk
STRUTS / SHOCKS
Strange 10 Ways
I have those on my car.......
SPRINGS
Currently have BBK(Progressive Springs) thinking about keeping them
The BBK's are ok but if you planning trips to the track i recommend The Steeda drag springs
New front lower A-arms with Hydra-bushings and low friction balljoints, offset rack bushings, swaybar endlink bushings, swaybar pivot bushings, and front/rear spring isolators. Quad shocks will be removed, if they aren't already
Also, looking at the rear diff, what do I need to be setting money aside for? I looked at people who's clutch paks went out and all that because the power was getting planted better and it tore up the rear end. I don't plan on LAUNCHING from every geen light in town , lol but longevity and durability are obviously things a person expects to pay for.
I would put in a detroit locker with 31 spline axles .....
If you do that it will pretty much guarantee a bulletproof rear with the motor that you have.....
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
On the springs though, and I'm going off of Steeda write up,
you won't get the lowering effect so much with the drag springs, so I guess thats the differance between looks and better 60' times?
Thanks for the rest of the info now I gotta surf and find a decent price on the stuff
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlg34750
actually the steeda drag spring will drop the 1/2" to 1"
you can cut a 1/2 coil out and have the best of both worlds.....
I've always heard that lowering your car can hurt your weight transfer during a launching which would hurt your track times...
I even think you've said this before Reg.
Although, I would think that the adjustable shocks would help prevent that problem.
But yeah, sometimes choosing between looking good and going fast can be a give and take relationship.
__________________
-1994 Mustang GT... K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16 -Check profile for pics of our car collection! -Member of MBMCustoms Car Club - AmericanMuscle ROCKS!! - "Save a horse, drive a Mustang!"
when you lower the car 1" to 2'"
it will affect the weigh tranfer that why i advise to go with the drag springs ....it will be a happy compromise
i took a half coil out of my rear spring to get the car lever but keep in mind i have coilovers up front.....
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
I would put in a detroit locker with 31 spline axles .....
If you do that it will pretty much guarantee a bulletproof rear with the motor that you have.....
Hey, Reggie!
I have a question about all this rearend stuff. I am looking at the different differentials.
What is the difference between a Detroit Locker and Auburn? I am so confused by all of this....(this really isn't me trying to be the dumb girl or anything). I have seen Eaton, Strange, and Dana Lockers, but there are the Auburns also.
Could you explain it all to me, PLEASE?
__________________
93 GT - In-Progress - 347+ whatever the bank can afford!
00 GT - That's his baby.
i will go under the they assumption you understand the mechanics of the locker style differential.....
as far all the brands you mention above they all are basically the same...
it really is a matter of brand preference.....
and for those who don't know
Locker Differential 101.....
A locking differential or locker is a variation on the standard automotive differential. A locking differential may provide increased traction compared to a standard, or "open" differential by restricting each of the two wheels on an axle to the same rotational speed without regard to available traction or differences in resistance seen at each wheel.
A locking differential is designed to overcome the chief limitation of a standard open differential by essentially "locking" both wheels on an axle together as if on a common shaft. This forces both wheels to turn in unison, regardless of the traction (or lack thereof) available to either wheel individually.
When the differential is unlocked (open differential), it allows each wheel to rotate at different speeds (such as when negotiating a turn), thus avoiding tire scuffing. An open (or unlocked) differential always provides the same torque (rotational force) to each of the two wheels, on that axle. So although the wheels can rotate at different speeds, they apply the same rotational force, even if one is entirely stationary, and the other spinning. (Equal torque, unequal rotational speed).
By contrast, a locked differential forces both left and right wheels on the same axle to rotate at the same speed under nearly all circumstances, without regard to tractional differences seen at either wheel. Therefore, each wheel can apply as much rotational force as the traction under it will allow, and the torques on each side-shaft will be unequal.(Unequal torque, equal rotational speeds). Exceptions apply to automatic lockers, discussed below.
A locked differential can provide a significant traction advantage over an open differential, but only when the traction under each wheel differs significantly
There are two main types of lockers: automatic and selectable.
Automatic lockers lock and unlock automatically with no direct input from the driver. Some automatic locking differential designs ensure that engine power is always transmitted to both wheels, regardless of traction conditions, and will "unlock" only when one wheel is required to spin faster than the other during cornering. They will never allow either wheel to spin slower than the differential carrier or axle as a whole. The most common example of this type would be the famous "Detroit Locker," also known as the "Detroit No-Spin," which replaces the entire differential carrier assembly. Others, sometimes referred to as "lunchbox lockers," employ the stock differential carrier and replace only the internal spider gears and shafts with interlocking plates. Both types of automatic lockers will allow for a degree of differential wheel speed while turning corners in conditions of equal traction, but will otherwise lock both axle shafts together when traction conditions demand it.
Locking differentials do have some disadvantages. Because they do not operate as smoothly as standard differentials, they are often responsible for increased tire wear. All automatic locking differentials are known for making a clicking or banging noise when locking and unlocking as the vehicle negotiates turns. This is annoying to many drivers.
__________________
Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
Ok.....you assumed wrong....but the 101 was great for me. I guess the basic concept was there, but I didn't know to apply it to locking differentials.
I am trying to decide, I guess, really what to go with. The car will spend more time on the street than the strip (I would guess).
I was looking at the Auburn ECTED-Locker. Selectable rather than automatic. Turn it on at the track, save the tires on the Mustang cruise? LOL.
Is there mechanically an advantage, reliabilty-wise, one way or the other?
The Auburn uses electromagnetic force to lock the axles, all stuff I REALLY understand! But I am looking at the parts wear replaceablilty factor also.
The other part.....can I keep the 28 spline axles? Can't get a 5-lug disk brake conversion kit, like we got, with the 31 spline? I mean I know I could keep them, but..... well how bad would it be? LMAO
Thoughts?
__________________
93 GT - In-Progress - 347+ whatever the bank can afford!
00 GT - That's his baby.
on here I think I'm on the right track...(no pun intended) subject to your disecting it, I think this would work out alright. I have no expierence in setting the pinion angle will I have to look into this later? I would think this would be an issue if I went with adj UCA
(this really isn't me trying to be the dumb girl 
or anything). I have seen Eaton, Strange, and Dana Lockers, but there are the Auburns also.
