Quote:
Originally Posted by HogDriverWanabe Since I know you replaced your entire suspension and rear, I'll ask this here and see if anyone reading can help...
I'm about to do the rebuild and have read a lot about suspensions over the past couple weeks... however, i know nothing about how to remove or install the components and I'd like to do it all myself... i know you guys found out some good info when trying to do the struts without the engine in...
would anyone be able to point me in the direction of a full write-up on how to do the un-install and re-install... what special tools are required, good techniques for how to do it, what logical order i should follow, etc...
the final idea is to build a suspension that will handle well in basic city driving but will be able to lock it down hard on the dragstrip when required
any input is greatly appreciated as i know you guys have a lot of work on your hands as it is... |
Your best bet for the special tools is O'Reilly Auto Parts. I am not sure about the store in other places, but here, you deposit the replacement cost of the tool. When you return it, they refund all of your money. We did that with a really nice pair of internal coil spring compressors, but they wouldn't fit through the A arms.
I will find some time this weekend and put something together for you......
Although I am not sure we did it the best or most highly recommended way

. The other part that will make a difference as far as the springs are concerned is whether or not you already have lowering springs on the car.
Special tools....hmmmmm......
I know that we needed a couple 21mm 1/2 in drive sockets along with 18mm 1/2 drive sockets. If you have a complete 1/2in drive socket set with decent rachets you should be good for the most part.
Having an extra 15mm, 18mm, and 21mm would help you alot unless you like box wrenches.
Oh and a really good breaker bar!!! We went down to the local hardware store and got 2 15 in lengths of pipe and a threaded female to female connector for them. It worked wonderfully!
Torque wrenches are another thing we had to borrow from O'Reilly's. We broke one 125 ft/lb max wrench, and had to borrow a similar one and a 225 ft/lb max. The strut to spindle bolts are supposed to be torqued (I believe) to 190 - 225. Don't have the spec sheet in front of me, so that may be off just a bit.
Find out if the new struts you are buying are supposed to use the stock nut or are provided with a new nut!!!!
Strange uses a stock strut nut, and the previous owner put struts in that used a different nut. It has created a head ache for me.
As for the struts going back in with no engine...... you have to ask the non smart a$$ Reggie about that!
His re-install went much more smoothly than mine did. I did after all need 400lbs of sand bags and about 800lbs of human body in the engine bay to get those B@STARDS back in....

. LMAO.
Give me an idea of what you are planning to actually replace or rework both front and rear.
For example, are you planning to rebuild the rear end also? If so, are you going to do it with it totally removed from the car or leave it in there? It actually does make a difference when you are re-installing upper and lower rear control arms, etc.
Are you changing your brakes to disc all around? Changing the axle shafts from 28 spline to 31? LMAO.... it really is an endless number of possibilities!
H