[PETESGT]

As per your request sir,
Here's the vid, Mt Scott included. I'm driving the red one and wife is in the white Fox

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URPa84G5p-w

[302Feen]

Look out for them buffalo! LoL that cracked me up!!
Yeah, in case anyone is wondering, Mt. Scott is the biggest mountain in Oklahoma... Yeah, not very big.
That looks like it was a lot of fun. Is that a mustang club here in OK or just Lawton?

[PETESGT]

It's actaully not really a club per say. More like a group of folks who get together when we can. The majority are focused on gathering at the track on Fri & Sat down here in Lawton, (1/8 mile)

----------------

Spent all of Friday morning down at the body shop and our focus was just to check the fit of the body kit. A couple things added to the to-do list. (As a side note, I know there is an issue of Fast Fords in my house where they did up a white GT with the 1993 Cobra kit. As always, when you go to look for it you can never find it when it comes to articles and so on.) Based on yesterday, I'm hoping to find it before Monday just to make sure all our bases are covered with this kit.

- The metal guide plates for the lower ground effects all need to be removed in order for the new pieces to sit flush. This consists of drilling out the rivets.

REAR WING- three holes need to be filled on the hatch. A hole needs to be added to the wing in order for the wiring for the 3rd brake light to be routed. And finally, a total of four holes added to the hatch in order to secure the middle post's of the wing
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...f/100_0220.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...f/100_0218.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...f/100_0219.jpg

REAR BUMPER- struggled a little bit because the two braces which hang down, were snagging on the new bumper cover. The kit comes with two other braces that will mount to the new bumper and into exsiting holes on the underside of the bumper renforcement. We removed the two braces from the car.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...f/100_0217.jpg

FRONT BUMPER- No real hidden surprises here, not yet anyway. I'm not exactly sure if we need to transfer any thing off the factory one, besides the two L braces up top, and the fog lamps? Which the article might clear up, when I find it.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...f/100_0223.jpg

HOOD- Looking for your thoughts. If you look at the pictures, you'll see a large gap in between the firewall and the underside of the hood. I am taking into consideration that the rubber piece (hood to fiewall seal) will close a bit of the gap, but does this seem right? I called the wife down from work to take a look at it, and she had no problem with it. The hood sits flush and tight up against the corner of the fenders etc. But it just seems like such a large gap to still beable to look down into the engine.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...f/100_0221.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...f/100_0222.jpg

And then the other thing, now that I have thought about it, and I'll have to look underneath, is that I'm going with the Trick Flow intake with a 1" spacer. I'm pretty sure this will clear the underside of the hood, but not 100% certain w/o doing an eye ball judgement at this point. If it doesnt, now would be the time to obviously to figure that out prior to paint and select a different hood.

Securing the hood, I am wanting to go with just hood pins (no wire's hanging off), and negate using the hood release and the safety latch. Also, ommiting the prop rod, and going with hood struts, which came yesterday from LRS/Redline in a polished finish.

Overall though with the Cervini parts fit and looked really good out of the box. The body shop guy himself was pretty impressed sice his initial judgement of what I wanted to do was with pieces built using 1970's technology. For the most part, "just the standard prep work". There was also enough new hardware with each piece, that a person does not have to reuse the factory bolts and nuts.


I know these pieces and look have probubly been beat to death. But its different this time cause its actually my car and just not a monthly article in a magazine. For me and hopefully others, it also reinterates the fact that the price of any body kit is only a very small fraction of the cost once its painted when other things have to be fixed, Ie. holes on the hatch.

I am still working on the engine posting. I need to confirm the head specs, cam, and other stuff before just posting it. I want it to be as detailed and complete for everyone to analyze it and what-not. Look for it tommarow.


-PETE-

[RLG34750]

i think that gap is combo of the cowl grill & the hood ...you can't a real perpective from the angle of picture....

but the hood lines up and fits i would not fool with it....

with regard to the hood fastening you could always go with dzus fastener...

Racecraft Inc - Product Details

[PETESGT]

Ordered some more parts today,

headers, mass air meter, and plug wires. Also, called LRS and ordered the firewall to hood seal, in hopes to close the gap on my hood the way it should be. We'll see how that works, and if it doesnt look right still I will order out a Harwood 3" cowl hood.

[302Feen]

It's looking good!
Cervinis is a good brand. The hood I have is Cervinis and I had NO problems whatsoever with the fit and/or prep and paint. You're definitely working hard on this project and I'm sure it will look awesome once it's done. Keep us updated.
As for the Hoodpins... Mine are mostly there for looks because I still have my hood latch. I'm paranoid that if I took my hood latch off, some jerk might think it's funny to steal my hood pins and I'll drive off not noticing until my hood is in my windshield.
Just some advice on the engine... Since you're here in Oklahoma, forget about all the EGR and smog pump crap. Don't gotta worry about emissions testing here! (not sure if you already thought about that or not...)

[PETESGT]

Originally Posted by 302Feen

It's looking good!
Since you're here in Oklahoma, forget about all the EGR and smog pump crap. Don't gotta worry about emissions testing here! (not sure if you already thought about that or not...)

I know. I have all my cars registered here. And with eventually retiring here I'll be ok.

AND THANKS!

[PETESGT]

I have a new MSD 6AL box, and blaster coil, so do I need to go with the stock replacement, PN# msd-8456, or can I go with the 8598? MSD Ignition, Distributors - summitracing.com

[RLG34750]

Originally Posted by PETESGT

I have a new MSD 6AL box, and blaster coil, so do I need to go with the stock replacement, PN# msd-8456, or can I go with the 8598? MSD Ignition, Distributors - summitracing.com

since are buying the whole ignition system

the #8456 is all you need.....

been running one for years with no problem.....

[PETESGT]

and...........ordered. ty

Short Block ETA- no later than Friday afternoon. Pics to follow, as always

[302Feen]

Who are you getting the short block from?

[PETESGT]

Originally Posted by 302Feen

Who are you getting the short block from?

building it in the shop. Let me see if I get some time tonight to post it all up, as it relates to the engine.

[PETESGT]

Comp Cam COMP Cams® - Cam Details

Trick Flow track heat cylinder heads
2.02 intake valves and 1.64 exhaust
62cc
o-ring-groove
Comp Springs

DSS 20 Block
Track Heat Intake
Trick Flow Pistons, actaully made by Probe (forged)
1" spacer
Scat Crank/Hbeams
1.7 rockers(gold)
Fendoza flywheel
DSS Main Support
DSS Windage Tray
DSS Oil Pan
Fel-Pro Gasket Kit
ACCUFAB 75mm TB/EGR delete
Anderson Powerpipe
Velocity 90mm MAS
Power Master 140amp alternator (chromed)
MSD6AL
MSD Distributor
Super 40 Plug Wires
Anderson Headers (1 3/4) ceramic shorties
Blaster HVC Coil
mini starter- (not sure yet)
Smog Delete

This is really not every nut,bolt,rocker girdle,etc. But I think the key things are touched on.
The last couple days were spent cleaning all the machining residue of the parts and waiting on JEGS to drop off the little odds and ends we hadn't ordered yet, (Ie. Stainless Steel Bolt kit). By Friday afternoon we should have a short block assembled.

I left my camera at the shop, so I'll catch back up later with pics and all that good stuff

[RLG34750]

if you are going with a mini starter this what you want......

CSR Performance Online Store- Electric Water Pumps, Starters, Transmission Shields, Flexplates: <span class="menu2">FORD</span>

[302Feen]

What is the advantage of a mini-starter???