[ztpkng]

Hey guys... I'm doing my first shortblock rebuild, and it's an '86 302. I had a little "help" during disassembly, a few things were taken off without my being there to watch, so I was hoping you could check a few pictures and make sure everything looks ok coming back together. It's just minor stuff.

First, the balancer sticks out further than I thought it would. When I drew it down, the inner lip came down flush to the end of the crank, so that seems right, but I thought I'd check.

Also, the metal heater hose... it has a mounting bracket that sits about 2/3 towards the back of the intake, which almost lined up with an intake bolt. I had two intake studs and I swapped one under it's location, and I was able to get the mounting bracket over the stud and torqued down, but it took a bit of convincing. Can you make sure I didn't do something stupid there?

Finally, there are a few gaskets that I don't recognize. I attached a picture for reference. Here's what I do know..

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8. Distributor O-Ring?
9.
10. Intake Gasket (already installed)
11. Intake Gasket (already installed)
12. Scrap piece? It came between the two cork intake gaskets

I expect there are some extras so they can make a general kit that covers a few configurations, but I thought I'd ask. I'm guessing one of 1-4 is a throttle body gasket.

Any help would be great. Thanks!

[kilog55]

7 is for a manual fuel pump
9 looks like egr to me

[EagleAutosports]

1-4 are for different size throttle bodies, find the two that fit your size. One for the throttle body to spacer, the other for spacer to intake. I believe it's 1 & 4 that you use.
5-6 aren't used on your engine.
7 is for a fuel pump that bolts to the timing cover, your engine doesn't use that type so you discard that one.
8 is the distributor o ring.
9 is for your IAC valve.
10-12 are cork end gaskets for the intake, you don't want to use those because they'll push out and cause a leak. You want to use a thick bead of silicone instead.

How did you put on the balancer? Hope you didn't hammer it on, that needs to use a balancer installer. Did you clean out the threads for the crank bolt? It seems to be out too far.

The metal heater line is installed right, that stud is just for that reason.

[ztpkng]

Thanks!

With regards to the balancer, I drew that down with the crank bolt and washer. Once it was torqued to spec, I backed the bolt and washer back out and looked down inside, and the balancer was perfectly flush with the end of the crank, so that the washer was sitting on both surfaces. Any deeper, and the washer will be sitting on the crank but not touching the dampener, and that doesn't seem right, but it was out a little further than I expected, so I figured I'd check.

Edit: You know, I guess it will be immediately obvious if it's too far out once I put the pulleys back on. If things don't line up, then I'll know it's not fully seated.

[EagleAutosports]

That would tell you, yes. The balancer can look further out when looking from the side but if it's all the way flush then it must be all the way on. Good idea about using the crank bolt to draw it on, I've seen so many ruin the crank snout by hammering on a balancer crooked.