I am changing my spark plugs to autolite #24 as the tech tip here recommends, but I am a bit confused because the tip states:
"Now change the plugs, this is the "fun part" cause it is not that easy to remove the plug wire boots from the plugs. Use mechanics or leather gloves to do this, your hands will thank you. Start by calibrating your new plugs, we recommend you to use AUTOLITES #24 on 5.0s, stay away from "sh*tfires" ouch..mean SplitFires and similar types of plugs, also stay away from platinum's. If you cant find Autolites use Motorcraft's. Gap them to .052"
does this mean that I have to gap my autolites to .052?
No no no, not brake FLUID... you use brake CLEANER. But be careful, some throttle bodies have a clear coating inside them and harsh cleaners can take it off.
Spray the cleaner on a clean rag and wipe out the throttle body, don't spray it into the intake.
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really? somebody should fix that article then because this is exactly what it says
"7. The Throttle body and Intake can get pretty dirty after a while, the oil and gunk deposits in them can reduce your pony's performance. Also after lots of traffic driving your heads and valves might get covered with Carbon deposits that can cause PRE-IGNITION, which is as bad as detonation.
To clean it all there are a few things you can do, either remove the intake and heads to clean them OR the EASY WAY. use Carb Cleaner or BRAKE FLUID to clean them. If you use Carb cleaner just make sure it is O2 sensor-safe. Brake fluid is.
This procedure is for 5.0 engines only, 4.6 should not try this.
Now disconnect the hose that runs from the passenger side valve cover on the OIL FILL TUBE to the Throttle body hose. Disconnect at the valve cover side.
Start your engine and either SPRAY the carb cleaner into the hose or Immerse the hose in the brake fluid bottle. Do this 1 second at a time and rev the engine a bit if it starts to stall, repeat the procedure until you are half way on the cleaner or brake fluid.
You will see lots of smoke from the exhaust..this is normal and a sign that the cleaner is working.Take the car for a ride and repeat the procedure the next day."
I have my spark plugs gapped now, and I tried to get as close to .052 as i could. Is a little over or a little under going to make a problem for me? I think I have them + or - .001
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1988 mustang gt
known mods: cold air induction, gt40 intake, lowered a bit, cobra wheels.
I always used autolite 24s long before I read this. You are fine with your gap. I always used a MSD cap because of the brass contacts. They lasted about 10k to sometimes 15k but I had an MSD 6al box burning them hotter. The passenger side rear plugs can be a chore.
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Your typical Terminator with all the usual mods Ford meant for you to do right after you left the showroom.
it doesnt seem to have any problems, and it felt like it could have been advanced even more. Now, I have never actually heard what pinging sounds like, but the engine made no unusual knocking or detonation sounds. Does it sound like a backfire? rattling inside the engine?
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1988 mustang gt
known mods: cold air induction, gt40 intake, lowered a bit, cobra wheels.
it doesnt seem to have any problems, and it felt like it could have been advanced even more. Now, I have never actually heard what pinging sounds like, but the engine made no unusual knocking or detonation sounds. Does it sound like a backfire? rattling inside the engine?
Rattling would probably best describe it. Manifests itself loudest at high RPMs. I would back it down to 15 degrees with premium fuel and go to your local testing grounds. Maybe second gear from cruise to 5750-6 grand or so and see if she sounds good.
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Your typical Terminator with all the usual mods Ford meant for you to do right after you left the showroom.
the right spark plug for 1983 Mustang 
