i have about 1000$ to spend on my 1990 5.0 lx automatic (with a 302 v8).
pretty stock besides a cold air intake and flowmasters.
alright well what should i get to get more power. i would rather have a couple things that make it better then one big thing but i cant decide what i want to get.
my personal opinion would be pure suspension upgrades...i was always told what's the point of having a bad ass motor and tranny if you cant ever get it to hook up? look into better springs, shocks, weld on link bars, aluminum driveshaft...just my 2cents.
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88' 4 banger swapped to 92' 5.0 HO bored .030, e303 cam, 600cc edelbrock carb, ford racing blue fuel pump, weiand intake, BBK longtube headers, BBK o/r h pipe, 40 series flowmasters, ford racing suspension, T5, 373's and a few other things
things in the making...T5 "Z" tranny, edelbrock RPM heads, scorpion 1.7 rr, 750 demon carb, and a procharger at 9lbs
Last edited by peterikan187; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:34 AM.
Reason: grammar
my opinion if you have an aod i would recommend 4:10 gears or any lower gear ration. if you have a clutch fan or anything like that take it off and get an electric fan and take the smog off if your still running it, that should free up maybe 5 hp.
i have about 1000$ to spend on my 1990 5.0 lx automatic (with a 302 v8).
pretty stock besides a cold air intake and flowmasters.
alright well what should i get to get more power. i would rather have a couple things that make it better then one big thing but i cant decide what i want to get.
thanks.
my opinion, within $1,000, from summit
3.73 gears. $150
underdrive pulleys $46
1 5/8" shorty headers $140
2 1/2" H pipe $130
76mm maf meter $210
65mm throttle body $153
Gears will make a night and day difference in how the car feels, especially with it having an AOD.
Good idea to get the power to the ground too. What good is making power if it can't reach the ground?
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my opinion, within $1,000, from summit
3.73 gears. $150
underdrive pulleys $46
1 5/8" shorty headers $140
2 1/2" H pipe $130
76mm maf meter $210
65mm throttle body $153
so those gears going to install themselves? its atleast another $100 to do the install yourself IF you know what you're doing and you want to do it properly.
$400-600 installed 4.10's, trac-loc rebuild kit, new bearings, seals, etc.
$130 good lower control arms
$100 subframe connectors + install price
$50-150 used or new shorties
$250 AT MOST GT40P intake w/ gaskets, etc.
$100-200 H or X pipe, used or new
Pick any of the above and go from there.
start w/ that then do the nickel and dime stuff as extra money comes in.
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'90 LX Under the Hood: Stock Block, Ported Edelbrock Performer 2.02's, Victor 5.0 intake, B31 cam w/ 1.7's, 5115 150 shot, GMS(POS) K member, A arms, Coilovers, Strange 10 ways Out Back: MVB C4, 4.10's, Baseline Uppers & Lowers, UPR ARB & Comp 3 ways Rollin' on: 15x3.5 & 15x10 Greg Weld Racelites w/ 275/60-15 Nittos
my personal opinion would be pure suspension upgrades...i was always told what's the point of having a bad ass motor and tranny if you cant ever get it to hook up? look into better springs, shocks, weld on link bars, aluminum driveshaft...just my 2cents.
I could not agree more.....
if you build a house you build from the ground up
same goes for a car........
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
New seats are very nice...I know those old notchbacks have the worst seats Ford ever put in a Stang, look into some GT takeouts, besides that for full out performance gains long tube headers/hi flow H-pipe will give you the most bang for the buck
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"Goose, Hollywood's fine, I want Viper"
1995 Mustang GT Cnv 347(427 stroker being built!) almost done!
1996 Cobra with Kenne Bell 2.1 Supercharger and every other conceivable part you can bolt on it...650hp upgrade in the works
2003 Infiniti M45 V8 340 hp...a methadone treatment for reformed Mustang drivers
gears should be one of the first things you ever get for these cars. 4.10 gears at minimum with an aod. any higher (numerically lower) and it'll still feel like it's lacking. also get a 2.5" midpipe, either H or X whichever sound you like better. i wouldn't worry about getting aftermarket headers at this point, the factory headers aren't the chock point in the exhaust, the tiny exhaust ports in the heads are. after that, work on suspension and chassis stiffening. i'd get full length subframe connectors, control arms, springs, shocks, struts.
not only with it pull a lot harder with the gears and exhaust, it'll put the power to the ground a lot better and feel a lot more solid and stable doing it.
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87 GT
308 rebuilt by me, Ross forged pistons, cobra intake, thumpers with 1.94/1.6s, afm n-412 cam, 65mm tb, proflow 75mm maf, 3.5" power pipe, 24# inj, 255lph fp, 1.6 rr's, kirban afpr, u/d pullies, KC clutch, pro 5.0 shifter, 4.10's, hedman L/Ts, 2.5" H pipe, spintech prostreets, frpp alum d/s, MAC c/c plates, MSD 6al, 3G alt, f/l sfc, UPR uca's/lca's, tokico shocks/struts, maxspeed springs, HID 5000k
Upgrades for 1990 Mustang lx 
