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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #1 (permalink)
mechanic1025 is offline Made Member

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Default Removing an 8.8 Rear End

How hard is it to remove the whole rear end? How do the brake lines and emergency brake line disconnect?

I want to remove the rear end to give it an overhaul and take it to the shop without taking the whole car there.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #2 (permalink)
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Just set car on jack stands (frame) Then undo the brake line at the T above the rear end. Jack up rear a little to relieve the control arms and shocks then remove them from the rear. Undo the driveshaft and ebrake cables and drop the rear. Its pretty easy.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #3 (permalink)
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alright and then im gonna have to pump the brakes and refill the master cylinder for re-installation?
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #4 (permalink)
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yes, and once you undo your brake lines make sure you have something to catch the fluid that will drip out!!!

i took my rear end out with just basic hand tools, and not much knowledge about how to do it.. really a simple thing.

then of course bleed your brakes after you hook it all back up, and refill the fluid.

are you removing your rear end to install different suspension? or to redo the internals?
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #5 (permalink)
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Anytime the brake system is opened up you must bleed it. Fill the all the way up and pump for a while. This is supposed to send the air bubbles to the wheels. Then, starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) have someone open the bleeder valve while you slowly put the pedal down. If the air bubbles are continuos put the pedal all the way to the floor and don't let it come back. Tell him to close the valve. Repeat until there are no bubbles or he can close the valve when he sees no more bubbles. Check the reservoir and do the next farthest wheel. When the bleeder valve is open, don't let the pedal come back or you will suck air back in. There are the one person bleeders but I haven't used one. Another thing to remember on your rear end removal is to centre punch alignment marks to the drive shaft and pinion yokes so they are in the same position when it goes back together. This way you won't be hunting down vibration problems. I pulled one in a scrapyard and I was surprised at how easy it was (no air tools or penetrating oil). Look at it and you will do well. Beware releasing the bottom control arm as even with the rear dangling there is a preload from the springs so it will release with some force but use your head and you will do fine.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #6 (permalink)
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May consider some penetrating oil for a couple days prior to removal
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #7 (permalink)
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Im removing it to take it to the shop to get new gears and axles in it. Also gonna paint it black or coat it and put a ford racing rear end girdle on it. and maybe some new control arms, but i wanna paint it when its not under the car lol.
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