How many miles can a stock motor take without a rebuild? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-16-2010 Thread Starter
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How many miles can a stock motor take without a rebuild?

Hey everybody, my odometer on my 87 LX 5.0 says 70,000 but it's all crooked so I'm sure it's 170,000. It was maintained for the most part but has been sitting around and could use some new gaskets and vacuum lines. Just wondering how many miles these motors can go before really needing a rebuild. Mine's a project car that I purchased for $400 and I wouldn't mind doing a rebuild, but would like to get the most out of it. I have all the new gaskets and vacuum lines, but I'm waiting on some warm weather. If I don't beat on it, how many miles would I be able to get out of this engine? Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010
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it's hard to say with out knowing how the engine was treated before you got it. if the owner/owners before you took good car of the car it could last a good bit longer if you take care of it. Have you started the car up/ driven it for a bit? if it drives well then you should be ok for a bit.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010
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I think some owners here say they have 250,000 miles on their motors and counting. 5.0's are strong motors and underestimated as well.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010 Thread Starter
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Wow, 250,000 is a lot, I was expecting maybe 200,000 at most. I personally know the previous owner and it was taken care of in regards to regular maintenance. It hadn't been ran in a while since I got it and the last time it was used was when the previous owner though it was a good idea to burn the tires until the steel belts were showing...that was the only time it was really beaten on. I mean it runs pretty good, but has a slight vacuum leak, so it kind of stutters at first. Also, the clutch quadrant could use a replacement, but for now to tension things up, I cut a washer in half and jammed it in between the quadrant and it works good enough for me. As long as this motor can last till I have enough money to rebuild it, I'll be satisfied. If it blows, I'll bore it to a 306 and call it a day. Does anybody know an approximate cost of boring it out? Thanks again.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010
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not sure for an 87 but i looked into a 95 5.0 and it says 150-225k miles depending on how it was drivin and mods
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010 Thread Starter
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Mine is still a stock engine with absolutely no mods and was driven fairly conservatively and wasn't really beaten on too much. So I guess I can squeeze a little more life out of this engine till it blows. Then, it'll be bored out and I'll put in some forged internals so it can take a beating and last a lifetime. That's when mod-mania is gonna hit, haha.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87mustangLX113 View Post
Mine is still a stock engine with absolutely no mods and was driven fairly conservatively and wasn't really beaten on too much. So I guess I can squeeze a little more life out of this engine till it blows. Then, it'll be bored out and I'll put in some forged internals so it can take a beating and last a lifetime. That's when mod-mania is gonna hit, haha.
Why a 306? Why not a 331 or a 347?

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010
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When I took my 5.0 apart with 137k on it never been opened before you could still see the hash marks on every cylinder.
And because Foxx88, be are too cheap to buy new cranks :hihi:

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010
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If the car was well maintained a 5.0 (302) will run forever......
post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Why a 306? Why not a 331 or a 347?

I'm only boring it out to clean up the cylinders up a little. At least that's the story I'm gonna stick with. I don't have the money to stroke it yet, otherwise 331 or a 347 would be on the agenda. I figure since everything's gonna be torn down eventually, I'll toss on some GT40 heads and a GT40 intake manifold. I'm sure I can find a 5.0 Exploder at my local junkyard and I'm real cool with the guys so I'll get everything for cheap. Also, this is gonna be my DD after I get it all cleaned up and I'm not sure how streetable one of those strokers would be.
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I think it depends on how the previous owner treated it. When I got my notchback it only had 80,000 miles, but had a blown headgasket, blown shocks, ruined interior, and messed up paint. A kid had owned it....

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mines over 200k im sure

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010 Thread Starter
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It was treated well and maintained for most of it's life up until the last couple months when all it was used for was to do little burnouts and screw around with. The final burnout lasted until the tires were nothing but steel belts. As of now, it needs valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and a throttle body gasket (which is a main cause of my vacuum leak) because it is missing. Other than that, it's not too bad motor-wise.
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Another alternative is to find a complete engine a a local JY. You can rebuild it at your leisure. Once complete, a weekend swap could take place.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLG34750 View Post
If the car was well maintained a 5.0 (302) will run forever......
reg as you already know
its clean oil, air and not over heating that will insure one to last.

i have broke down several 5.0's the most recent was a 98 explorer w/ 286,000 wrecked by a 17 y/o female and it looked perfect on the inside. the cylinder walls still had the cross hatches and there wasnt a lip on the corner cylinders(1,4,5,8), i could have passed this one off as a low milage motor if i was a crooked.

the highest milage 5.0 i can personally atest to is 350,000, it was w/ an auto in a late 80's four door car, now this one was due for anr and r but still ran good for a daily driver.

1990 GT 5.0 T5 3.73 w/a 96 explorer motor ported gt40 heads, E-CAM,tfs-street intake,bbk-everything. put down 252-302TQ on a dyno jet with all kinds of issues...cheaper is seldom better epecially after your tach passes the 6200 mark....purchasing cheap chinese made parts teaches us a lesson on the importantance of doing it right the first time...ie the valve train and/or internal parts
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