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Unread 11-29-2010   #1 (permalink)
MyPony1992 is offline Apprentice

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Default How to hide Wires in an Engine Bay?

Hi Guys,

Is there someone who can guide me where to start and how to get rid of most of the wires under the hood. I would like to have a nice and clean engine bay and have no idea where to route all the wires. My Pony is a 1992 now carburated with no inner fender guards anymore, was like that when I bought it!
Would be nice if there's a link or any places where I could find guidelines or idea lol...

Thank's guys...
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Unread 11-29-2010   #2 (permalink)
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Try this link...

soniccherry.com | Supercharged '92 Mustang 'vert

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Unread 11-29-2010   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPony1992 View Post
Hi Guys,

Is there someone who can guide me where to start and how to get rid of most of the wires under the hood. I would like to have a nice and clean engine bay and have no idea where to route all the wires. My Pony is a 1992 now carburated with no inner fender guards anymore, was like that when I bought it!
Would be nice if there's a link or any places where I could find guidelines or idea lol...

Thank's guys...
My old site is down with my write-up and pictures of how I routed thing when I hid my wires and vacuum lines so this is about the best I can do for you for right now. If you need more information or are looking for something more specific let me know.

Hopefully this helps?


WIRE HIDING 101
Disconnect the battery; jack up which side of the car you want to work on (or both sides). Use jack stands or something similar to support the car. Remove the tire and then remove the plastic fender liner.
To remove your plastic outer wheel well liners there are just a few screws in the outer fender lip and 1 or 2 that hold the plastic liner in place under the bottom attaching it to the floor panel? There are also a couple of plastic plugs that need to be removed and thatís about it. Then take your hand and hit the plastic liner in an upward motion which should help release the liner, then just pull it out of your way.
Step One: The Basics
To remove your plastic outer wheel well liners there are just a few screws in the outer fender lip and 1 or 2 that hold the plastic liner in place under the bottom attaching it to the floor panel? There are also a couple of plastic plugs that need to be removed and thatís about it. Then take your hand and hit the plastic liner in an upward motion which should help release the liner, then just pull it out of your way. Some people have removed there fenders for easier access, in my case I didnít. Itís just that I didnít want to deal with re aligning of my fenders later is the reason I removed the plastic liner which would have to be removed any way if you remove your fenders. This way I was able to see and access the hole on the back of the Strut Towers to get the connectors and wire through. It also made it easier for me to tie wrap the harness up and out of the way, along with being able to put the solenoid as high as possible on the inside fender, keeping it as high and dry as possible.
Step Two: Wire Time
All the wires and the harness will fit through the back of the strut tower. You donít have to remove any wire from any of the connectors. All you need to do is unplug (pull apart) the connector or deal with individual wires that were individual to start with.
First mark both ends of any connector that youíre separating, it will make it easier when you start to put thing back together, a camera is also a big help when it comes time remembering how thing went. Most people seem to forget what wires went where when it comes to the solenoid/ starter relay wires just mark each wire and its location and it will make life easier later.
Next separate the two ends on the different connectors then run the largest connector through the Strut Tower first then followed by the next largest and so on. All the connectors will fit through the hole without having to enlarge the hole in the back of the Strut Tower. It may seem that not all the connectors and wires will fit in to the hole when you first try but with a little finesse everything will go through. It does help if you have someone help you feed the connector and wires through the hole while you pull them through but itís not necessary.
Now that you have all the wires and connector in the inner fender check where you want to put your solenoid/ starter relay (I found that the farther you go forward with the solenoid/ starter relay and related wires the easier it when you do the other harness such as the headlight harness) making sure all the wires will re attach to the solenoid install the solenoid and then just tie wrap the rest of the harness as high as possible. You will be able to see place on the upper fenders where you can run the tie wraps. Another reason for keeping the harness as high as possible is so when you so when you reinstall the plastic wheel liner they fit like they use to. You can also run your hood release cable through the back of the Strut Tower if you like.If you weld the holes up on the inner fenders, Iíd suggest not running your MAF wire harness through the hole in the Strut Tower. You wonít have enough wire to hook it back up without cutting and splicing. Just my $.02
Headlight harness: I also ran my head light and turn signal wire harness on the driverís side inner fender. The only thing you have to do with the light harness is to make a couple of holes for the ground wire. Just run the light harness in front of the radiator and under the radiator bracket.
Main Harness: As for the main harness that runs on top of the pinch weld at the fire wall, I found the easiest method to hide this harness was to remove all the old original plastic shielding (which measures almost 1-1/4) and snuggly rewrap the main harness with black electrical tape, which will then make the same main harness less than 7/8 in thickness which can easily be tucked under the pinch weld, basically being hid out of sight.
Side note; As long as you have the old plastic shielding off main harness which expose the wires to the passenger side and drivers side try pulling those wires to the side the wires need to go, either drivers side or passenger side. This helps in lengthening those wires so that later you shouldnít need to cut and lengthen any wires.
As long as your re routing the main harness too under the pinch weld you can also re route the 2 brake lines that run with the main harness on top of the pinch weld to the underside of the pinch weld by just rolling them under the pinch weld and gently pressing the against the main harness that you just placed under the pinch weld. The brake line also helps hold the main harness tight to the underside of the pinch weld.
Once youíve got your entire harnesses together and reconnected hook up the battery and start your car to make sure everything works. Next strap the harnesses in place, reinstall the plastic liner etc. etc. if youíre welding up the inner fenders do the welding first, then reroute your wires. If your wonder I only had to cut and splice 2 different set of wire when I re routed my wires. One set to the A/C compressor and the other set to the Overflow bottle. You may also need a longer positive side battery cable depending on where your battery is located and how you want route the battery cable, and possibly longer starter cable again depend now you want to route the starter cable.


Step Three: Vacuum Lines
As long as you have the plastic fender off now would be the time to hide the (2) Vacuum tree on the upper fire wall. This can be done by putting the vacuum trees under the fenders, one on each side and running new lines through the hole in the inner fenders. Use the factory hole no need to drill new holes. Take the Large Vacuum Tree (Lettering Left to right) S(source), B/R (capped), A/C (air conditioning) S/C(driver side fender), B/B (brake booster) that on the firewall by the brake booster and put it under the driver side fender close to the Speed Control Module, or up high in the fender well as possible.
All you need to do is extend (2) of the rubber hoses (Manifold, Brake Booster) and shorten the hose that comes from the Speed Control Module (cruise control) which is a black looking ball under the driverís side fender. The other smaller vacuum module (not sure what is called) thatís on the passenger side upper fire wall close to the hood hinge. I moved to under the passenger side fender. The basic purpose is for vacuum module is for to the A/C.
I bought a package of air shock tubing (hard plastic line use for filling air shocks $10) because I couldnít find the smaller hard plastic tubing. The air shock tubing has approximately the same inside and outside diameter as the factory plastic tubing and fits snugly on 3/16 wiper tubing (7/32 ID), I also bought approximately 12Ē of 3/16 rubber wiper tubing. Or you could buy 3/16 (7/32 ID) rubber wiper tubing to do it all. Itís just harder to hide the larger diameter rubber hose under the pinch weld.
I cut the factory hard plastic line leaving approximately 3/8 of the plastic line stick past to the stock rubber boot, I then cut a 3/4 ď piece of wiper tubing to couple the 2 ends together. Youíll need some sort of lube (nothing with and oil base) to couple the factory end with rubber boot to the air shock tubing, believe me itís a snug fit. Take a line (hard plastic or rubber) from the larger vacuum tree that youíve put under the drivers side fender and run the line from the tree marked as A/C under the pinch weld to the passenger side through the factory hole in the inner fenders and connect it to the smaller vacuum module. Then take another line (hard plastic or rubber) and run it from the vacuum module back through the same hole and under the pinch weld to the vacuum line that comes out beside the heater lines.

Disconnect the battery; jack up which side of the car you want to work on (or both sides). Use jack stands or something similar to support the car. Remove the tire and then remove the plastic fender liner.
To remove your plastic outer wheel well liners there are just a few screws in the outer fender lip and 1 or 2 that hold the plastic liner in place under the bottom attaching it to the floor panel? There are also a couple of plastic plugs that need to be removed and thatís about it. Then take your hand and hit the plastic liner in an upward motion which should help release the liner, then just pull it out of your way.
Step One: The Basics
To remove your plastic outer wheel well liners there are just a few screws in the outer fender lip and 1 or 2 that hold the plastic liner in place under the bottom attaching it to the floor panel? There are also a couple of plastic plugs that need to be removed and thatís about it. Then take your hand and hit the plastic liner in an upward motion which should help release the liner, then just pull it out of your way. Some people have removed there fenders for easier access, in my case I didnít. Itís just that I didnít want to deal with re aligning of my fenders later is the reason I removed the plastic liner which would have to be removed any way if you remove your fenders. This way I was able to see and access the hole on the back of the Strut Towers to get the connectors and wire through. It also made it easier for me to tie wrap the harness up and out of the way, along with being able to put the solenoid as high as possible on the inside fender, keeping it as high and dry as possible.
Step Two: Wire Time
All the wires and the harness will fit through the back of the strut tower. You donít have to remove any wire from any of the connectors. All you need to do is unplug (pull apart) the connector or deal with individual wires that were individual to start with.
First mark both ends of any connector that youíre separating, it will make it easier when you start to put thing back together, a camera is also a big help when it comes time remembering how thing went. Most people seem to forget what wires went where when it comes to the solenoid/ starter relay wires just mark each wire and its location and it will make life easier later.
Next separate the two ends on the different connectors then run the largest connector through the Strut Tower first then followed by the next largest and so on. All the connectors will fit through the hole without having to enlarge the hole in the back of the Strut Tower. It may seem that not all the connectors and wires will fit in to the hole when you first try but with a little finesse everything will go through. It does help if you have someone help you feed the connector and wires through the hole while you pull them through but itís not necessary.
Now that you have all the wires and connector in the inner fender check where you want to put your solenoid/ starter relay (I found that the farther you go forward with the solenoid/ starter relay and related wires the easier it when you do the other harness such as the headlight harness) making sure all the wires will re attach to the solenoid install the solenoid and then just tie wrap the rest of the harness as high as possible. You will be able to see place on the upper fenders where you can run the tie wraps. Another reason for keeping the harness as high as possible is so when you so when you reinstall the plastic wheel liner they fit like they use to. You can also run your hood release cable through the back of the Strut Tower if you like.If you weld the holes up on the inner fenders, Iíd suggest not running your MAF wire harness through the hole in the Strut Tower. You wonít have enough wire to hook it back up without cutting and splicing. Just my $.02
Headlight harness: I also ran my head light and turn signal wire harness on the driverís side inner fender. The only thing you have to do with the light harness is to make a couple of holes for the ground wire. Just run the light harness in front of the radiator and under the radiator bracket.
Main Harness: As for the main harness that runs on top of the pinch weld at the fire wall, I found the easiest method to hide this harness was to remove all the old original plastic shielding (which measures almost 1-1/4) and snuggly rewrap the main harness with black electrical tape, which will then make the same main harness less than 7/8 in thickness which can easily be tucked under the pinch weld, basically being hid out of sight.

Side note; As long as you have the old plastic shielding off main harness which expose the wires to the passenger side and drivers side try pulling those wires to the side the wires need to go, either drivers side or passenger side. This helps in lengthening those wires so that later you shouldnít need to cut and lengthen any wires.

As long as your re routing the main harness too under the pinch weld you can also re route the 2 brake lines that run with the main harness on top of the pinch weld to the underside of the pinch weld by just rolling them under the pinch weld and gently pressing the against the main harness that you just placed under the pinch weld. The brake line also helps hold the main harness tight to the underside of the pinch weld.
Once youíve got your entire harnesses together and reconnected hook up the battery and start your car to make sure everything works. Next strap the harnesses in place, reinstall the plastic liner etc. etc. if youíre welding up the inner fenders do the welding first, then reroute your wires. If your wonder I only had to cut and splice 2 different sets of wire when I re routed my wires. One set to the A/C compressor and the other set to the Overflow bottle. You may also need a longer positive side battery cable depending on where your battery is located and how you want route the battery cable, and possibly longer starter cable again depend now you want to route the starter cable.


Step Three: Vacuum Lines
As long as you have the plastic fender off now would be the time to hide the (2) Vacuum tree on the upper fire wall. This can be done by putting the vacuum trees under the fenders, one on each side and running new lines through the hole in the inner fenders. Use the factory hole no need to drill new holes. Take the Large Vacuum Tree (Lettering Left to right) S(source), B/R (capped), A/C (air conditioning) S/C(driver side fender), B/B (brake booster) that on the firewall by the brake booster and put it under the driver side fender close to the Speed Control Module, or up high in the fender well as possible.
All you need to do is extend (2) of the rubber hoses (Manifold, Brake Booster) and shorten the hose that comes from the Speed Control Module (cruise control) which is a black looking ball under the driverís side fender. The other smaller vacuum module (not sure what is called) thatís on the passenger side upper fire wall close to the hood hinge. I moved to under the passenger side fender. The basic purpose is for vacuum module is for to the A/C.
I bought a package of air shock tubing (hard plastic line use for filling air shocks $10) because I couldnít find the smaller hard plastic tubing. The air shock tubing has approximately the same inside and outside diameter as the factory plastic tubing and fits snugly on 3/16 wiper tubing (7/32 ID), I also bought approximately 12Ē of 3/16 rubber wiper tubing. Or you could buy 3/16 (7/32 ID) rubber wiper tubing to do it all. Itís just harder to hide the larger diameter rubber hose under the pinch weld.
I cut the factory hard plastic line leaving approximately 3/8 of the plastic line stick past to the stock rubber boot, I then cut a 3/4 ď piece of wiper tubing to couple the 2 ends together. Youíll need some sort of lube (nothing with and oil base) to couple the factory end with rubber boot to the air shock tubing, believe me itís a snug fit. Take a line (hard plastic or rubber) from the larger vacuum tree that youíve put under the drivers side fender and run the line from the tree marked as A/C under the pinch weld to the passenger side through the factory hole in the inner fenders and connect it to the smaller vacuum module. Then take another line (hard plastic or rubber) and run it from the vacuum module back through the same hole and under the pinch weld to the vacuum line that comes out beside the heater lines.

Some Pictures of how things were relocated into the fenders.

Wire Hiding pictures by almoststock - Photobucket
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Unread 11-29-2010   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302Feen View Post
I was the one who helped Sonic Cherry (Dave) clean up his wires and vacuum lines in his engine bay.
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Unread 11-29-2010   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STK View Post
I was the one who helped Sonic Cherry (Dave) clean up his wires and vacuum lines in his engine bay.
It looks great!

I love seeing a nice organized engine bay. One of the worst sites is lifting up the hood and seeing nothing but old wires and hoses laying across everything.

I am still wanting to clean up my engine bay. But I decided just to wait for my engine rebuild and do it while the engine is out. I figured it would be much easier that way.
I tried doing this to my car a few months ago (you actually provided me with a couple of links to help me out) but all I ended up doing was hiding my hood latch cable. I had no idea where to start or even what to do. But I'm sure that when the engine is out it'll be much easier.

Hope that link helps the OP. Plus I'm sure there are a few others on here that will chime in soon that have done this same thing already.
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-Check profile for pics of our car collection!
- AmericanMuscle ROCKS!!
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Unread 11-29-2010   #6 (permalink)
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I do remember us talking about hiding your wires a few months ago, and it's to bad that you've only gotten as far as hiding your hood latch cable because it's really not that hard to hide the wire harnesses.
No doubt it's a little easier to reroute your wires with the engine out but it can also be done with the engine done.
It's also a little easier to work with the stringing and fastening wires in the fenders with the fenders off which I didn't do the 1st time I rerouted my wires but it can be done. It all depends on what you feel comfortable with.

Quote:
I love seeing a nice organized engine bay. One of the worst sites is lifting up the hood and seeing nothing but old wires and hoses laying across everything.
I can't agree more and why I felt I needed to clean up my engine bay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tock/ASB04.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tock/ASB07.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC01003.jpg
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Unread 11-29-2010   #7 (permalink)
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I can't wait to do mine.
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got my next project!!!!
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I need to fly Almost stock over here to do the green machine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STK View Post
I do remember us talking about hiding your wires a few months ago, and it's to bad that you've only gotten as far as hiding your hood latch cable because it's really not that hard to hide the wire harnesses.
No doubt it's a little easier to reroute your wires with the engine out but it can also be done with the engine done.
It's also a little easier to work with the stringing and fastening wires in the fenders with the fenders off which I didn't do the 1st time I rerouted my wires but it can be done. It all depends on what you feel comfortable with.



I can't agree more and why I felt I needed to clean up my engine bay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tock/ASB04.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tock/ASB07.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC01003.jpg
Wiring/electrical is my weak spot when it comes to cars (or just about anything actually. :hihi, so that's why I'll just wait til the engine is out and my dad can help me.

Last time I messed with something electric was when I repaired my garage door opener... After it was all put back together I went to plug it in, as soon as I plugged it in the thing blew up and I fell off the ladder cuz it scared the bejeebees out of me! Ended up pinching one of the wires when I put it back together and it blew circuit board up into pieces.
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Unread 12-03-2010   #11 (permalink)
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Black split loom and heat sink works wonders!
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I know this is a real old posting, I have just one really easy question. Do I have to remove the GT trim to remove the inner liner

Thanks
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^^^ No you don't have to remove the GT trim.
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Unread 06-16-2012   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply on this late posting.I figured out that you do not have to remove the trim but I had to loosen it since Ford in all its wisdom had two of the screws that held in the inner liner partly covered by the trim
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I know this is hella old, but can't thank you enough
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