which spark plugs for 1989 GT? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013 Thread Starter
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which spark plugs for 1989 GT?

I just got a set of 9mm ford racing wires and a screming demon igniton coil and I'm having a hard time figuring out whats the best plug to run with them. I am leaning toward NGK plaitnums, is this a good choice? Has anyone run the E3 plugs? Or is there a better choice? The coil says I should chang the gap to around .60 to .65 I have been told not to go iridium because they are hard to gap that far.

Thank you for any help and info:smilie
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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Do not run platinum plugs. Run cheap autolite copper core. I run 765's fod my setup, but if you're NA run what's recommended @ .54 gap.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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Iridiums are difficult to gap because the electrode is thin and fragile. You do not HAVE to increase the gap. The extra voltage just makes it possible to do so.

Multi-ground plugs, such as E3's, shroud the spark. All those extra grounds serve only to obstruct whichever one is doing work at a given moment.

I would recommend the NGK platinums for a stock or mild car(iridium is essentially the same, just more expensive...). I would only use coppers in vehicles with forced induction or high-strung NA engines. They errode quickly, requiring regapping and replacement to a point that makes them just as expensive as platinum.

1995 5.0L GT, T-5, Black, 'vert.
1996 4.6L GT, T-45, Laser Red, 'vert.
1997 3.8L V6, 4R70W, Laser Red, coupé.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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Whatever you get, don't forget to debur the ground tips with a small file, especially if you increase the gap. These burrs are a hotspot for detonation.

1995 5.0L GT, T-5, Black, 'vert.
1996 4.6L GT, T-45, Laser Red, 'vert.
1997 3.8L V6, 4R70W, Laser Red, coupé.
1997 3.8L V6, T-5, Black, coupé w/ sunroof.
1997 4.6L Cobra, T-45, Black, coupé.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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I ran a set of E3s in my 4.3L S10 a while back, I thought they were great. I had a fairly new set of AC Delco Rapidfire #4s (I think) and I could tell a difference when I switched to the E3s. I do agree with what P4452 said for the most part. I had a set of Bosch Platinum +4s in a 2.2L S10 and they were awful, worst $40 I've ever spent. They don't work like you would think. The spark only takes the path of least resistance so it will only use one electrode at a time. The E3s on the other hand seem to have solved that problem. I wasn't convinced at first; but after doing some research on independent studies and finding out for myself I can assure you they work as advertised. They really came alive when I added a Hypertech 55k volt coil to the mix! When I first put them in I picked up 1-2 mpgs, after the coil I picked up a couple more. I went from getting 21 mpg to 25 mpg consistently. It also had much better throttle response. They're only $6.00 each, well worth it. I'll be throwing a set on my 'Stang when my dad drops in that new engine. I'm also getting a set for my Escape, it came with new autolites in it but it only ran good with them for a month or 2. I even indexed, de-burred, and gapped them. Apparently 2.3 Duratecs don't like Autolite plugs.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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Its ur choice. but if you corectly did ur reearch. E3 plugs are hands down the best... They have proven dyno horsepower... I have used these in every application from race bikes to rock crawlers.. they are pricey but it worth it... E3's check them out...
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parker_33 View Post
Its ur choice. but if you corectly did ur reearch. E3 plugs are hands down the best... They have proven dyno horsepower... I have used these in every application from race bikes to rock crawlers.. they are pricey but it worth it... E3's check them out...
I agree

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parker_33 View Post
Its ur choice. but if you corectly did ur reearch. E3 plugs are hands down the best... They have proven dyno horsepower... I have used these in every application from race bikes to rock crawlers.. they are pricey but it worth it... E3's check them out...
Well our little cars prefer the cheap inexpensive and rather common copper plugs whether it be Motorcraft or Autolites. All the 5.0's I have worked on or helped with run 10x better with cheap copper plugs. Also I would not want to run plugs in my car for years and not check or change them. It takes 20 minutes and it gives you insight on how your motor is running.

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1989 Sonic Blue Mustang LX Coupe, 349 ci,
392 rwhp 424 rwtq....Mustang Dyno
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurf stang View Post
Well our little cars prefer the cheap inexpensive and rather common copper plugs whether it be Motorcraft or Autolites. All the 5.0's I have worked on or helped with run 10x better with cheap copper plugs. Also I would not want to run plugs in my car for years and not check or change them. It takes 20 minutes and it gives you insight on how your motor is running.
Not that I like platinum plugs but you can still pull them out and check them. I pull my plugs out on a regular basis. Its a really good way to make sure your engines running efficiently. Not trying to shoot you down Smurf but the E3s really are that good. Have you ever used them or looked into them? They are still copper core plugs with a nickel plated tip. They aren't even available in platinum. So I would guess their service life is about the same, as the cheap Autolites. Maybe just a little better. That's not the point though, the design works. That's why they're $6 a piece; not because of the materials used to make them.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKC View Post
Do not run platinum plugs. Run cheap autolite copper core.
]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurf stang View Post
Well our little cars prefer the cheap inexpensive and rather common copper plugs whether it be Motorcraft or Autolites.
I agree with the above.
Why spend extra money when you don't need to..

89 LX Vert 5.0 Mostly Stock
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2.73, TracLok still blown, but, new Spec Stg 1 Clutch
Dynomax Super Turbo
s[I]

I'm a victim of circumstance..


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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Thank you all very much for your imput... very helpfull as usual
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I just installed Autolites in my 89 from Late Model Restoration and the car is running smoother. I gapped mine at .045 as that is what Chilton's recommends for the 89.

1989 5.0 vert GT, Manual, 3.08 gears

Current mods
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Never tried E3's personally but have worked on plenty of cars some recently bought some just in need of some love after some time. Cheap copper plugs have always worked best to bring a smooth idle and a healthy running motor.

Can you gap E3's?

2014 V6 Deep Impact Blue Mustang, Borla Type S, 2.73 (Uughh need 3.73)
1989 Sonic Blue Mustang LX Coupe, 349 ci,
392 rwhp 424 rwtq....Mustang Dyno
"There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurf stang View Post
Never tried E3's personally but have worked on plenty of cars some recently bought some just in need of some love after some time. Cheap copper plugs have always worked best to bring a smooth idle and a healthy running motor.

Can you gap E3's?
Lol...nope. They were in my car when I bought it...ran good, ran the same with auto's. you can gap them with a trianglurarjigamagapper.


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motorcraft sp-450's. unless you are forced induction or a pretty radical combo, there is absolutely no reason to run anything else. them or any similar copper plug like autolites work just fine for a fraction of the price of platinum or iridium. if you're trying to gain horsepower through your spark plugs, you have something else going on.

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