Well I just rolled over 115000 miles today. Kinda sad. I tried to take a picture of the odometer with my phone, and it's the only time that it hasn't worked. It's getting on up there so maybe it is time to get a new car and have some fun with this one. How many miles are foxbody's good for?
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1998 Mustang GT-SVO Headers-Steeda Tri-Ax-Flowmaster American Thunder Mufflers Dumped-Eibach Springs-Edelbrock Shocks-Tokico Struts-MM CC Plates-CAI
Not for sure. mines at almost 150000, still runs smooth as can be. jus lil minor things. as long as u keep up maintenance any decent motor can go 200k plus
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Grover
1990 LX 5.0 HO-- center force clutch(heavy duty);Hurst competition short throw shifter; 3.55's;Pro-M air w/ K&N; 65MM throttle body and spacer;1.72 Roller rockers; 1/2 inch plenum spacer; Big Tube Headers; pizza box kit??; Fuel pressure reg and gauge; GT-40 heads(ported and flow tested); Pulley Kit; 24LB injectors, Chip(not sure which one); 180 thermostat; Flowmaster off road X-pipe(no cats); 110 lph fuel pump; mobile1 5-30 synthetic; Corbeau VX2000 racing seats.5 lug conversion..
I think you'll be good for quite a while if you've kept up the maintenance-100K+ isn't as scary as it was 25 years ago.If you like it,keep it and keep it up-upkeep cheaper than buying another...wish I had realized this myself a long time ago
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"Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out and loudly proclaiming.....WOW!.....What a ride!
"As you grow older,don't slow down,speed up-there's less time left"--over 45 and just now realizing how much I don't know
Pull a compression test on each cylinder and see if they are where they should be. If the motor's compression is still good, consider keeping the car and just cleaning it up. We all have those lists of little things that need fixing - consider starting a working class restoration.
My philosophy is that if the motor, transmission and differential are still sound, I can fix up the rest. When those key items start to fail, THEN you start soul searching.
One thing I've learned is that attitude is extremely important. I meet people all the time who complain about their cars - yet when you get them to tell you the details, you discover they have a 7 years old car with 100,000 miles that has been trouble free but now needs a water pump or new alternator!
I tell them that my view of things is that as a part goes bad, I now have an opportunity to UPGRADE the car. I plan to install a Meziere electric water pump when my oe item goes bad. I'll install a high output chrome alternator, when THAT goes out!
When you've got an aging car, you CAN just swap it in (along with a basket full of cash, of course) and get a new one.
OR you can keep all that cash for something else and just address each little item as they come along, with an attitude that many of them give you an opportunity to upgrade that portion of the car either functionally (more power, better response, or in the case of brakes, better braking) or cosmetically (ka-bling).
More fun, if only you can swing the attitude around.
Best of luck - I bet the old motor still has good compression!
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tripleblack
"You can never be free until you let yourself go."
Well, the Fx body itself will hold together as lng as you take care of it an will give it some TLC. You may need an engine rebuild and tranny rebuild to keep the drivetrain up to peak performance, but with proper maintenance, you should be able to put that off for some time.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
Nowadays some people take the Owners Manual and Scheduled Maintenance Manual and throw it in the trunk with all their other junk and can still drive their cars 150,000. They look like crap but they still run.
Some areas to examine critically on the fox bodies:
1. Rear torque boxes (unibody sections above the differential and over both wheel wells). These tend to come un-stitched (like mostof the unibody, they are just spot welded). Repair kits are easily available and cheap, though its best to hire a good welder to seam-weld them in place. The car will actually be stiffer and stronger than new afterwards.
2. Motor mounts. These go bad with age, and most cars with over 100,000 miles with the oe mounts still under the motor are gone. The passenger side goes first.
3. Transmission mounts. Though not as stressed as the motor mounts, once the motor mounts go, these usually follow.
4. Brake fluid. Few people flush out the brakes and replace the fluid. If this has never been done, consider adding this to your next maintenance.
5. Engine coolant. Same deal as the brake fluid. Flush it out and replace. I recommend Mercedes coolant - its the only coolant that is ph balanced and non-acidic. Costs like Mercedes stuff, though.
6. Switch to synthetics. Engine oil, but also tranny and differential. Longer lifespan for everything.
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tripleblack
"You can never be free until you let yourself go."
With some TLC and using synthetics your car should be fine. I bought my 89 with 156K on her. I have since rolled the 89 and replaced her with an 87. I am still using the motor out of the 89 and it runs fine. (I have one small oil leak from a drain plug that I need to replace.) My motor has 216K + and I still pull down 20-22 mpg. The car runs strong, doesnt burn any oil. I use full synthetics like triple said , in the engine, tranny and rearend. I have replaced the tranny mount. Motor mounts are next. I flush the system once a year. I do need to check my torque boxes.
115K isnt anything to be worried about as long as the compression test is good and you arent burning oil and just keep up on the maintenance. Its still new
Drew
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If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
My bros car has 210K miles on it and still runs strong. Original motor, trans and rear. Just normal maintanence keeps it running great. He actually raced a newer gt and beat him. My bros car is an automatic and granted i have no idea whether the other kid knows how to drive...lol but still, to win with an automatic car with over 200k on the ticker is pretty damn good in my book.
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
It gets a lot of TLC and i bought it as a restoration project. I'm fixing up the intertior and exterior as we speak along with a new windshield wiper motor, ac compressor, etc...I haven't had the time or money to start looking at the motor. I will give it a once over and I plan on having the car forever and giving it to my son when I have one, god willing. I was just curious if I should start being easier on it and maybe driving it a little less.
I could handle not getting so much attention from everyone, including cops. It also wouldn't hurt to have an economy car so I can pay my tuition and still eat. But what do I do...eat or drive the greatest thing that has ever happened to me?
I can always have a PB and J to hold me over!
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1998 Mustang GT-SVO Headers-Steeda Tri-Ax-Flowmaster American Thunder Mufflers Dumped-Eibach Springs-Edelbrock Shocks-Tokico Struts-MM CC Plates-CAI
PB & J is my lunch of choice. Its cheap takes 5 seconds to make and it never gets old. Plus it helped me save for the stang goodies.
Drew
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If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
mine has 215+ an shes still runs hard actually im sure it would run real good i just dont do it till i throw a tremec in it since autos have no warning signs of when there about to go out wtf a steel toe boot in Fords @ss for that one lol, when shes a tremec its gonna be fun!!! my bread an butter unless i ride the city but to work.
my 89 5-speed has 304,000 miles on it... i change semi-syn every 5000miles... ive changed plugs 3 times... had one water pump... havin a small sputter problem now... but im addressing that next week... going to the stang king in east tennessee... she has been totaled twice... got scars to show fer it... no smoke... my first ford ever... my best car ever... bought her in 94 for 6200 w/ 68000 k miles
115000 Miles, Getting Old 
now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
hi-mileage baby doll 
