I have a question to add to this. I know when you change the spindles you need to put spacers on the ball joints. Can you just use 94-95 ball joints to solve this instead of spacers?
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
I have a question to add to this. I know when you change the spindles you need to put spacers on the ball joints. Can you just use 94-95 ball joints to solve this instead of spacers?
Yes You can Press your old Ball Joints out of your Lower A Arms and use SN95 Ball Joints, but the better option is to just buy Ford Racing Lower A Arms as they come with new Ball Joints and Bushings. You still have to use a Spacer, but when you figure in the costs of new Ball Joints and Bushings for your old A Arms then the new Arms are a real bargin.
Yes You can Press your old Ball Joints out of your Lower A Arms and use SN95 Ball Joints, but the better option is to just buy Ford Racing Lower A Arms as they come with new Ball Joints and Bushings. You still have to use a Spacer, but when you figure in the costs of new Ball Joints and Bushings for your old A Arms then the new Arms are a real bargin.
Well I actually work at a parts store so when it comes to things like ball joints and bushings, I get them dirt cheap. But thanks for the info.
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
OKAY. now MY question. if i have an entire sn95 front suspension and brake system, can i go with steeda X2 balljoints.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
Yes you can press X2s into your Lower A Arms, do not use SN95 Lower A Arms because they are longer. If I remember correct X2s are nothing more than a regular Ford Part from a different car I will have to try to remember.
Well I actually work at a parts store so when it comes to things like ball joints and bushings, I get them dirt cheap. But thanks for the info.
Ford recommends changing the A Arm out instead of pressing the Ball Joints out, if you do press them out you may need to buy oversized or couple tack welds to make sure they stay in place, also you may have to weld some enforcements onto the A Arm to press the new Bushings in, again that is why it is better off in the long run to just get the Motorsports A Arms.
OKAY. now MY question. if i have an entire sn95 front suspension and brake system, can i go with steeda X2 balljoints.
why not just use the spacers? we just found an old piece of steel tubing in the back and cut it twice into to 1/3 of an inch pieces and we were done. I'm sure you can prolly just use some washers that add up to a 1/3 of an inch too.
Are you putting it on the SN95 Stang in your avatar? If you are, it's pretty much complete then. If it's going on a Fox it need more parts.
yup,going on SN95
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"Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out and loudly proclaiming.....WOW!.....What a ride!
"As you grow older,don't slow down,speed up-there's less time left"--over 45 and just now realizing how much I don't know
why not just use the spacers? we just found an old piece of steel tubing in the back and cut it twice into to 1/3 of an inch pieces and we were done. I'm sure you can prolly just use some washers that add up to a 1/3 of an inch too.
yea im not very sure yet what im going to do... im going to a tubular k-member for sure... and after hearing all this stuff about the difficulty with pressing in new bushings and balljoints, i might end up going tubular a-arms as well, but with spring cups for my standard coilspring setup. im curious if there is any advantage to the extended x2 balljoint? and whether or not anyone would recomend the "road racing" control arms that slightly relocate the wheel in a more forward position.
let me know what you guys think.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
Don't you have to switch to coil-overs with the tubular A-arms? Every one of them I've seen advertised did not have a spring perch.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
nah there are some companies that sell tubular's with spring cups. they have them on LMR. also qa1 sells bolt on spring cups for their tubulars.
if they get too pricey, ill just the ford racing ones.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
I have another question. I asked once before but I was told it didnt really matter, but that doesnt make sense to me. I have a set of stock length FOX 5 lug rear axles and right now I am using drums. Now my question is, do I HAVE to use sn95 length axles to put cobra brakes on the rear? I would think that by using the shorter fox axles, it would cause the rotor to hit the back side of the caliper mounting bracket. If you look at step 28 in this: http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...htM-2300-M.pdf
you can see how the rotor fits right in the middle of the bracket, so I would think that if you used a shorter axle, the back of the rotor would hit the bracket and if the axle was too long the front of the rotor would hit the bracket. Anyone have any input on this?
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
If you are using the Stock Brackets and Braces out back then Yes you need 94-98 Axles, if you want to use Fox Axles then you need to get Brackets and Braces from North Car
Do you know if they have a web site? I tried googling it, but i cant find anything. The reason I need to keep the stock axle length is because I have 10.5" wide rims in the rear and they will only work with stock length axles. Anything longer and they would be stocking way out of the wheel well.
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
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