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My kind of STP Build Thread

4K views 39 replies 8 participants last post by  cbydesign 
#1 ·
I purchased an '88 GT October 2015 and parked it. I had plans of doing a lot with it over the winter but life got in the way. Now I've finally started doing things with it. This is my first mustang, the oldest car I have ever owned and the most horsepower I have ever owned (not driven.)

So I like to Autocross, and I specifically autocross with the SCCA. The new class they just came out with (since they don't have enough) is Street Touring Pony. I'm not a super competitive driver, but I like to feel like I'm mostly ready to be in my class. I have way more plans than I will ever afford, but I still do things now and then. To this point, I have a Scar Pro-Car seat, not entirely sure it's a good choice as it sits a little high. S&R (AmericanMuscle) rear control arms, that I have no review of because I never drove the car without them, but I required rubber bushings on the ends, so these were the best deal on sale. AmericanMuscle 95 Cobra Replica 17x9 wheels in black with BFG Rival 255/40-17 tires all around. They rub a little on the front plastic ground effects. I'll try to do something about that and update. The wheels aren't great quality and they are a bit heavy. Out of the first four I received, two were damaged beyond using. The final 4 used, required quite a few weights on the wheels to balance. I added a used, slightly rusty and now painted black BBK intake with an unhooked up MAF till I can get a speed density adapter and sell the MAF. The last little bit is some MAC axle back mufflers that were already in the car.

I also did some maintenance. Needed a new battery tray since the old one was broken and no longer did the screw adjust. Also put in a different radio only to find out that the PO had hacked apart the harness. Now at least one of the speakers doesn't usually work at any one time. Too bad because he just put in new ones.

I've been driving the car for a few days now. I am really liking it. It feels a little rough, but it's 28 years old. And I put big tires on it. I'd like to get some Koni shocks and I'm not sure what springs yet. I'm in between Eibach Pro or MM Street and Track springs, basically deciding on ride quality. If anyone has experienced both or one of these, I'd appreciate some feedback with your setup in mind.

Thanks for reading. [emoji593]

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#3 ·
Someone got a snap of me at my first autocross, even though I had to leave early. It was a fun day. I'll try to get a video up of one of my runs if I ever get time.



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#5 ·
As far as springs and ride quality I'm assuming you're looking for something that'll handle well but won't beat you to death either? Try these http://www.americanmuscle.com/b-springs-7904.html#productInfo
I have them on my 95 and I like them a lot. They drop was just enough and they are stiff enough to where I don't have any body roll but they won't beat you death either as far as ride quality goes. My fox had eaibach sportlines and they were horrible. Way too stiff and the drop was too much to where it handled cruddy.
What koni's are you thinking about, the adjustable's? If you're looking at the nonadjustable str-t's you'd be better served with kyb gr2's/excel g's. The str-t's aren't bad (had em on my 90) but they're not any better than the kyb's (have em on my 95) which are cheaper. Subframe connectors were are probably the best thing that I ever did. I'm just using standard length weld in SVE latemodel resto's house brand and they made a nite and day difference in over all handling. Full length is probably the way to go but the standard length will work.
How long has it been since the front end has been freshened up, inner/outer tierods, and balljoints? If they have a lot of miles on them I think I'd do that before springs. For bj's you don't have to go all crazy and buy steeda's. Moog problem solvers will suffice even with an inch or so drop in ride height.


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#6 ·
The car looks nice and straight.
I love seeing pictures of these cars in action.
I'm not much help in handling department other than to agree that sub-frame connectors will make a notable difference. Definitely do weld in, and if possible full length.
Some will say they notice no improvement, but, I do notice that a strut tower brace adds rigidity, improves the feel of the car. Mine has been on and off several times, so, I have driven it back to back installed/not.
Given that, if I had a hatch version, I would look into a rear strut brace/bulkhead as well. No experience.
There is also a K member brace that can be had, but again, no experience, something to look into possibly.
I guess what I'm getting at is, for what you are doing, I'd stiffen the chassis as much as funds allow. I'm sure you've read that these car are a little flex-y. To the point, that I have heard stories of jacking one corner of the car up, then being unable to open/close the doors. I recall being at a popular Mustang shop here in the valley long ago and we had the front drivers side up in the air, I needed something out of the console and opened the door, retrieved it and closed the door back... owner of the shop had raised eyebrows and said something to the effect of "well you don't see that often..."
I had Competition engineering sub-frame connectors welded in and same make strut tower brace. Not saying they are the best, but, they seem to work well.

Good luck... enjoy your Pony.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the great responses. I actually have someone that offered to give me some 50k mile Koni Yellow adjustables. A bit high mileage, but hard to pass up free. We go about 10-45 miles an hour on the course with a lot of at the limit of traction driving. I can only do bolt in Suburban connectors for the class I'm in, but I can do ones with seat supports as well, so I was going to go with the BBK bolt in. I might be able to get a front strut tower brace really cheap if my friend is ever able to touch base with the guy selling it. I am only allowed to do a 2 point brace though, so it will need... some modification. I have been looking at the steeda k-member brace since reviews on it are great. I haven't really decided if I want to do a rear brace mainly because I like knowing I have some space in the back to put stuff and they seem pretty invasive. If budget allows this year, I'd like to do the MM panhard bar.

Thanks for the suggestion on the springs. I had been looking at those before and I thought they might be a good choice, but there was no feedback on them. I think Eibach had been making the Ford Racing springs at one point, so I figured the Pro-Kit ones wouldn't be much different. Good to have personal feed back on them though.

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#8 ·
How long do you want to have the car? If it's something you'll have for awhile I think I'd go ahead and say screw the class and get the weld in type. If you have to bump up a class and be slower than the rest for now then so bit it. At least your frame won't sag in the long run. These are what I have. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-SUBS/79-04...rs?year=1993&gclid=CK-jxPODt8wCFVc1aQod-HoF7w
If you have the 2.73 rear gear 3.55 or 3.73's would help a lot at the speeds you mentioned. With 3.73's you could probably do your whole run in 2nd and 3rd gear.
The best use you'll get out of a rear strut brace is to hang clothes on it.

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#9 ·
Do the rear brace. Without it, autocrossed or even just hard street driven fox body hatchbacks tear the rear wheel houses up from the floorboards behind the door posts. That's why my '88 was a notch. Those things are as flexible as a shoe box with holes cut in the sides, and the lid off.
 
#19 ·
I have some Steeda Sport springs, 50k mile koni yellows, steeda rear control arms, camber castor plates, a front upper strut bar, and subframe braces to go in. Let's hope I can get it all done in enough time to enjoy a little before the season is over. Haha.

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#21 ·
I got the alternator in and found out the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter was loose. So, problem solved.

BBK SFCs are installed now, along with Steeda Sport springs and Koni Yellows.



Little bits of trouble with the bold on SFCs and where they go when there is interference with the brake lines. Too tired to type more.

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#22 ·
Ok don't have pics because my phone was acting up, but I definitely needed new front springs. The last coil on the driver's front had broken off. Could explain the steering wheel being slightly off center. Anyone have some suggestions for getting the ball joints off, and then the rest of the control arm? I want to have someone press in the bushings and ball joints.

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#23 ·
Should I be having trouble removing the spindles? The passenger side came out after some exercise, but the driver side seems to be getting stuck on the rotor.

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#24 ·
No pictures today, but I finished reassembling the tie rods, but the control arms are off at a machine shop getting bushings and ball joints done. I'd have been better off getting new ones at the prices they charge. Won't be able to finish those till Thursday, since that is when I get the new control arm bolts since I had to cut one that would not come all the way off with the tools I have. I swapped in the new distributor, but I need to put the new rotor in place then cap it and put all the wires back on.

Tonight I want to finish the distributor, and attach the strut bar, with some modifications. To the intake to make the bar fit better. then I can put the coil on and test that the timing is at least letting it run mostly right. No timing light, so I'll have to go by ear. Marked it, but it's pretty easy to be off by a little I hear. First time with a distributor. I might try to put on the Gtrac bar as well if it isn't too late by the time I'm done with a the strut bar. I've already marked the positions for the strut bar and after putting it in there several times to check it looks ok, I'm pretty confident in their locations.

I also tried to swap out the steering rack bushings last night and sort of did some weird stuff. Couldn't get the rack off because the bolts were basically seized, so only the front bushings got changed to poly. Not sure how that will affect things, and I'm doing way too much to the car to know if that causes any problems.

I should get some pictures of the wheel wells all empty of anything except the tie rods. That's the most I've ever taken out if a car, haha.

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#25 ·
Got the distributor, coil and strut bar in
Just as planned. Except I'm still spending way too little time sleeping, ha. I need a timing light. It starts but needs a little touch of something because startup is a little off. Maybe just changing the IAC that I was going to do anyway will fix it. Control Arms look good, wish I didn't have to order new ones, holding me up! I don't have any deadlines to meet this weekend though, so NBD. Pics!




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#27 ·
All my suspension bits in and car is back on the ground. Now I need to figure out how to reset timing. Spark plugs are on their way out and the engine is on its way to TDC ... Hopefully.

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#29 ·
The car is driving again finally. Unfortunately I'm not there to enjoy it. I got about 10 minutes with it before I had to fly to China for work. It felt great. Handling was really smooth. Only got about -2° camber out of it, 0 toe and plenty of castor. I did end up having to beat my strut bar into fitting, which included beating up some insulation on the back of the hood. And the Steeda Gtrac bar needs a little help being snugged down. Be careful when installing those to keep to the inside of the K-member. I ended up with some new plugs too, autolite double plats, they were a good deal on Rockauto. Can't wait to get back and have some more fun with it.

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#34 ·
I got my Tri-Ax installed last night. Can't wait to get some use out of it... assuming I can make the car drive for more than 5 minutes. Still figuring out the rust tower issue.

 
#35 ·
To get my fox ready for track replaced all front end components and smaller ratio rack. Inexpensive lowering spring and shock package from LMR, C and C plates, weld in frame stiffeners, strut tower brace and definitely a pan hard bar to keep rear end in place. Only one wheel would spin and replaced clutches in rear end, also u joints. Had problems with autolite plugs cracking ceramics, don't need the platinums, have had good luck with standard NGK in all my cars. Went to pull a part for heads and intake from 1999 Explorer, only spent $ 150 for them but need to upgrade valve springs. Stock brakes but PFC pads on front. Tough little car, beat the heck out of it for five track days about 1.5 hours each time, only failure was radiator cap and it was old.
 
#36 ·
I have seen towers more rusted than yours, take a good look at bottom of towers on engine side. Mine had to have plates welded in on inside, look at frame rails themselves, somebody makes repair kit for them.
 
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