Mine guzzles a quart every 200-250 mi. (219k abused miles). I think you'll find that most of that is going through the pcv valve just like mine. Run an oil separator; it will keep your plugs clean longer and lessen any detonation tendencies.
You can do that. If in the same given amount of time it doesn't
slow it down then you are going to have to live with it. It is probably
valve seals maybe rings anyway if it still runs good just drive it.
The compression rings are probably still good,its just the oil rings that are worn.Theyre usually the first ones to go.
JFYI- Oil pressure numbers, after the engine reaches operating temp during idle, is a good sign of main/rod/cam bearing condition.If oil pressure drops low during that time,it indicates the bearings are on the way out.Once pressure drops really low & the dreaded knock begins at a red light,a bearing or the bearings are down to copper.However oil weight affects oil pressure too.
You can get an oil separater already designed solely for that purpose (Steeda has a good simple model) or you can go to Home Depot/Lowes and buy one of those plastic encased filters with a drain valve used for an air compressor & install it between the pcv valve & intake vacuum fitting.
If youre gonna run 20W50,I would make sure warm weather has hit before you begin using it.20W is a little too thick at cold start for cold weather.
5W30-winter
10W40 20W50-summer
The first # is cold start weight & the second # is operating temp weight.You want it thin at startup during cold weather then thicker at operating temp.You can increase cold start weight once warmer weather hits.
Turns out oil pan gasket was leaking it's been repaired I was parking it on the side of the driveway on gravel and dirt ....the first night I park in the garage it was on all over the floor
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