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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017 Thread Starter
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I'm lost

Well I figured I would start a new thread. So my car is still running like crap. So I put everything back the way it was before I started to add stuff to it, except for the 24# injectors. Still won't idle, extremely rich, fluid coming out the exhaust, pops, spits and sputtering. I made sure that the car was at tdc and installed the distributor correct. Could my injectors be bad? Or do I need 24#?

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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017
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If its pig rich you do not want to add a larger injector. Have you checked the ECT sensor yet or put a vacuum gauge on the car to see if it has a vacuum leak as suggested in other threads?


90 LX 5.0 5spd
14° of initial timing on 93 octane
Ported 93 Cobra Intake Manifold -- BBK 75mm TB
FRPP shorties -- BBK O/R X
Spintech Prostreets -- 2.5in Flowmaster Tails
Hurst Billet Plus Shifter -- BBK CAI
FRPP 3.73s -- Walbro 190lph
3G alt -- Contour Fans
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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017 Thread Starter
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I have replaced the ect, put all new vacuum hoses on, put new o2 sensors on, put my old coil, distributor and wires back on. the car ran fine when I parked it last October. did some upgrades this winter. MSD coil, distributor and box, new aluminum radiator and electric fans. Timing should be good, I set it to tdc and all plug wires are located where they should be. the car had 24# injectors when I bought it. Could the computer have been tuned for them?

88 GT Hatchback,BBK headers, H-pipe and flowmaster 40's
Gt40 heads,Gt40 upper and lower intake,E303 cam
BBK cold air intake, 3.73 gears
BBK 76mm mass air meter calibrated for 19# injectors
Accufab 70mm throttle body and spacer
Smog and A/C delete
Aluminum drive shaft
MSD coil, distributor and ignition box
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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017
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I have been following your thread and can appreciate your frustration by now. At this point, if it were me, I would take it to a competent shop who deals with Mustangs and have them diagnose the problem(s). Limp it there, push it, tow it, whatever. The time and money you have spent on the car may likely go on trying to diagnose it yourself. Just my $.02.


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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017
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If the car has been tuned you will be able to visibly see a chip sticking out of the computer. Its in the passenger side foot well. When you say you set the timing did you set it to 0 or to the stock 10 BTDC? Remember the SPOUT connector has to be out when doing this. I also agree with Randy, at some point you have to call it quits and take it to a shop to figure it out. Could save you money and the headache in the long run.

90 LX 5.0 5spd
14° of initial timing on 93 octane
Ported 93 Cobra Intake Manifold -- BBK 75mm TB
FRPP shorties -- BBK O/R X
Spintech Prostreets -- 2.5in Flowmaster Tails
Hurst Billet Plus Shifter -- BBK CAI
FRPP 3.73s -- Walbro 190lph
3G alt -- Contour Fans
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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017 Thread Starter
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I may have just figured something out, the only other thing I haven't put back on the car was the throttle body that was on there(bbk 70mm). I replaced it with an accufaf 70mm. I just noticed in my old bbk there is a hole in the throttle plate and the accufab does not. Does it need to be there?

88 GT Hatchback,BBK headers, H-pipe and flowmaster 40's
Gt40 heads,Gt40 upper and lower intake,E303 cam
BBK cold air intake, 3.73 gears
BBK 76mm mass air meter calibrated for 19# injectors
Accufab 70mm throttle body and spacer
Smog and A/C delete
Aluminum drive shaft
MSD coil, distributor and ignition box
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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017
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It doesn't necessarily need to be there. If I recall the stocker has a hole in it. All it does is smooth out the idle a bit but the IAC is perfectly capable of compensating for this by itself. It will not cause an overly rich condition or severe idle issues.

90 LX 5.0 5spd
14° of initial timing on 93 octane
Ported 93 Cobra Intake Manifold -- BBK 75mm TB
FRPP shorties -- BBK O/R X
Spintech Prostreets -- 2.5in Flowmaster Tails
Hurst Billet Plus Shifter -- BBK CAI
FRPP 3.73s -- Walbro 190lph
3G alt -- Contour Fans
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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krem12 View Post
It doesn't necessarily need to be there. If I recall the stocker has a hole in it. All it does is smooth out the idle a bit but the IAC is perfectly capable of compensating for this by itself. It will not cause an overly rich condition or severe idle issues.
ok, I'm going to pull the computer to verify I do not have a chip installed from the previous owner.

88 GT Hatchback,BBK headers, H-pipe and flowmaster 40's
Gt40 heads,Gt40 upper and lower intake,E303 cam
BBK cold air intake, 3.73 gears
BBK 76mm mass air meter calibrated for 19# injectors
Accufab 70mm throttle body and spacer
Smog and A/C delete
Aluminum drive shaft
MSD coil, distributor and ignition box
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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017
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Another thing you can/should do when you get the computer out is remove its panel and inspect the 3 blue capacitors on the printed circuit board.Look for signs of leakage,buldging and corroded/broken posts.These capacitors wear with age and they can cause alot of the symptoms youre having too.The panel is held on with torx bits.The thread below details the capacitor inspection & has numerous pictures of some damaged capacitors.The pictures shown below are a few taken from that thread,so youll know what to look for.
Disconnect the neg battery cable before disconnecting the ecm harness.


2nd. case of three (3) A9L ECMs getting refurbished - Hackfabrication
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91 LX 342ci (10.5:1) - TFS 190cc (stage ll)
TFS Track Heat - Lunati 61011 (.549" .565")
Flowtech 1 5/8" - ProChamber w/ FM
QA1 Coilovers - KB Matrix System
Weld ProStar XP's
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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
Another thing you can/should do when you get the computer out is remove its panel and inspect the 3 blue capacitors on the printed circuit board.Look for signs of leakage,buldging and corroded/broken posts.These capacitors wear with age and they can cause alot of the symptoms youre having too.The panel is held on with torx bits.The pictures shown below are what youre looking for.
Disconnect the neg battery cable before disconnecting the ecm harness.


Thank you, I will do that.

88 GT Hatchback,BBK headers, H-pipe and flowmaster 40's
Gt40 heads,Gt40 upper and lower intake,E303 cam
BBK cold air intake, 3.73 gears
BBK 76mm mass air meter calibrated for 19# injectors
Accufab 70mm throttle body and spacer
Smog and A/C delete
Aluminum drive shaft
MSD coil, distributor and ignition box
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Im not sure if you done the maf conversion or if it was done already when you bought the car,but make sure the map sensor doesnt have a vacuum hose attached to it,the port is left open to atmosphere on the sensor & the intake port/hose is capped.

If youve checked/replaced all of the vacuum hoses,there are plenty of other components that could be leaking vacuum too,not just the hoses.Solenoids,pcv valve grommet,gaskets (intake,throttle body,egr spacer,iac) air intake hose,injector bosses,etc.You can use propane,carb cleaner or water to spray suspect leak points,while the engines running.Youll hear an idle change when you hit a leak.

91 LX 342ci (10.5:1) - TFS 190cc (stage ll)
TFS Track Heat - Lunati 61011 (.549" .565")
Flowtech 1 5/8" - ProChamber w/ FM
QA1 Coilovers - KB Matrix System
Weld ProStar XP's
wbrockstar is online now  
post #12 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017 Thread Starter
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so I pulled the computer, no chip, everything internal looked good. I checked all my grounds. today I am going to test my fuel injectors one by one and put a new fuel pressure regulator on. I will keep everyone posted on what I find. thank you all for your help. how long does it take the computer to adapt to new items?

88 GT Hatchback,BBK headers, H-pipe and flowmaster 40's
Gt40 heads,Gt40 upper and lower intake,E303 cam
BBK cold air intake, 3.73 gears
BBK 76mm mass air meter calibrated for 19# injectors
Accufab 70mm throttle body and spacer
Smog and A/C delete
Aluminum drive shaft
MSD coil, distributor and ignition box
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post #13 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017 Thread Starter
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Ok, had it running ok today. All fuel injectors were fine, warmed it up and set timing at 12deg. Codes I got were. Koeo 31, 85, koer are 94, 44, 31. My concern is I couldn't get much for bolts to my TPS. I'm pretty sure I tested it correctly. .06 is all I got
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post #14 of 61 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017 Thread Starter
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Car ran good, let it cool down with battery disconnected to do a idle reset. With IAC disconnected it wouldn't start. Any thoughts?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeroyj2 View Post
Car ran good, let it cool down with battery disconnected to do a idle reset. With IAC disconnected it wouldn't start. Any thoughts?
Look at the throttle set screw and see if its touching the throttle stop on the tb linkage.It sounds like the set screw might be backed out so far that its not even touching/opening the throttle blade.With the iac disconnected, you need to adjust the screw inwards so it'll open the throttle blade enough to make it idle below 650rpm,if possible.Then once the iac is reconnected,the computer should take over from there.

Adaptive learning begins anytime the engine is running, in open & closed loop.The only difference is,nothing is updated during open loop,only closed loop.It'll learn as you drive.Theres really no magical time frame.Tmoss gives a good explanation in the link below.

Ford Mustang | MustangWorks.com - EEC-IV Adaptive Control. Your best friend or your worst nightmare?


91 LX 342ci (10.5:1) - TFS 190cc (stage ll)
TFS Track Heat - Lunati 61011 (.549" .565")
Flowtech 1 5/8" - ProChamber w/ FM
QA1 Coilovers - KB Matrix System
Weld ProStar XP's
wbrockstar is online now  
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