AFR head and lifter preload - Ford Mustang Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
GT Member
 
squekster's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2014
Location: shirley
Posts: 1,647
   
AFR head and lifter preload

I recently installed a set of AFR 165 heads. They claim that they are a direct bolt on
which they are except for the pushrod lenght. I bought the pedestal mount heads which
in retrospect I shouldn't have. I have the crane 1.7 rollers. These were used on the stock
heads I removed. After bringing number one up to TDC I mounted the first set of rollers
with the stock lenght rods. After tighting down the first rocker I had zero lash. The lifters need
to have a preload of .030 to .060. Stock lenght of original rods are 6.272 to be exact. I bought
a set of comp cam 6.300 lenght rods.A difference of .028 in. These new rods should give me the
preload I need. Just shy by .002 in. This means that I don't need to shim the rockers .Does
this sound right?

squekster is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago
PONY Member
5.0L Member
 
my89foxbody's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Dracut
Posts: 820
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by squekster View Post
I recently installed a set of AFR 165 heads. They claim that they are a direct bolt on
which they are except for the pushrod lenght. I bought the pedestal mount heads which
in retrospect I shouldn't have. I have the crane 1.7 rollers. These were used on the stock
heads I removed. After bringing number one up to TDC I mounted the first set of rollers
with the stock lenght rods. After tighting down the first rocker I had zero lash. The lifters need
to have a preload of .030 to .060. Stock lenght of original rods are 6.272 to be exact. I bought
a set of comp cam 6.300 lenght rods.A difference of .028 in. These new rods should give me the
preload I need. Just shy by .002 in. This means that I don't need to shim the rockers .Does
this sound right?

Did you get 1/4 to full turn while torquing them down? I was able to use stock length push rods because I stayed with 1.6 rockers. This video helped me out quite a bit.... FYI you're going to love these heads




AFR165cc heads, Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, BBK 70mm Throttle/EGR, BBK X-Pipe, BBK C.A.I., C&L 76mm Mass Air Housing,RAM HDX Clutch, Knock off Edlebrock upper/lower intake, 3.31 Ford Racing gears, Smog delete, Spintech Sportsman, 2.5in Flowmaster
my89foxbody is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
GT Member
 
squekster's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2014
Location: shirley
Posts: 1,647
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by my89foxbody View Post
Did you get 1/4 to full turn while torquing them down? I was able to use stock length push rods because I stayed with 1.6 rockers. This video helped me out quite a bit.... FYI you're going to love these heads

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJSj-3XS8ts

I watched that one. My point is with the rocker torqued to 20 ftlbs there is no preload.
I can spin the rod by hand but no up and down motion. When i was tightening the hold down
bolt by hand it bottomed out, at that point I had zero lash. Torquing the bolt to 20 ftlbs did
not increase the preload hence the need for longer pushrods. So an increase in rod lenght
of .028 will theoritically give me .028 preload. And no I didn't get the 1/4 to 0ne on the bolt
I got less than that. I am just hoping I got long enough pushrods.
squekster is offline  
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago
MACH I Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,264
           
You decided not to roll the dice on the off brand heads?
90lxwhite is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
GT Member
 
squekster's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2014
Location: shirley
Posts: 1,647
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
You decided not to roll the dice on the off brand heads?

Absolutely they sounded good but I decided to spring for the extra money and
go with much better one's
squekster is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago
MACH I Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,264
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by squekster View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
You decided not to roll the dice on the off brand heads?

Absolutely they sounded good but I decided to spring for the extra money and
go with much better one's
I hear ya. Better safe than sorry.
90lxwhite is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago
PONY Member
5.0L Member
 
my89foxbody's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Dracut
Posts: 820
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by squekster View Post
I watched that one. My point is with the rocker torqued to 20 ftlbs there is no preload.
I can spin the rod by hand but no up and down motion. When i was tightening the hold down
bolt by hand it bottomed out, at that point I had zero lash. Torquing the bolt to 20 ftlbs did
not increase the preload hence the need for longer pushrods. So an increase in rod lenght
of .028 will theoritically give me .028 preload. And no I didn't get the 1/4 to 0ne on the bolt
I got less than that. I am just hoping I got long enough pushrods.

I wonder if it's the 1.7 rockers vs the 1.6 that you need the longer push rods

AFR165cc heads, Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, BBK 70mm Throttle/EGR, BBK X-Pipe, BBK C.A.I., C&L 76mm Mass Air Housing,RAM HDX Clutch, Knock off Edlebrock upper/lower intake, 3.31 Ford Racing gears, Smog delete, Spintech Sportsman, 2.5in Flowmaster
my89foxbody is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
GT Member
 
squekster's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2014
Location: shirley
Posts: 1,647
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by my89foxbody View Post
I wonder if it's the 1.7 rockers vs the 1.6 that you need the longer push rods

That's a good possibilty.
squekster is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago
PONY Member
 
mhuggler's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Location: uno
Posts: 643
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by squekster View Post
That's a good possibilty.
Do you have a dial indicator? Run the hold-down bolts down until you hit zero lash, zero the indicator and buzz it down the rest of the way. That'll tell you for sure what you have.

1987 GT 5 speed- BBK 65mm TB & FP reg., 1.6 roller rockers, 31 spline axles, 3.27 gears, Aluminum driveshaft, emissions deleted, FMS headers, B&M starter, Tubular rear control arms.
mhuggler is offline  
GT Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Severna Park, MD.
Posts: 2,201
 
Why don't you do it right the first time and perform the P/R check on both the intake and exhaust valves?

Ken
Severna Park, MD
1964 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt Resto-Mod
333 cu.in, dual Webers, CI cam, TW heads,TRI-Ys, 3.55 rear, T5z, TCP susp., real leather seating
kenash is offline  
MACH I Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,264
           
How about this? A pushrod checking tool. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca...FZS2wAodXCkE0g
Just curious, what cam and intake?
90lxwhite is offline  
MACH I Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,264
           
90lxwhite is offline  
MACH I Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,264
           
Upon further googling the pushrod lengths for afr 165's were all over the place. You'd probably ought to measure.
90lxwhite is offline  
post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 6 Days Ago Thread Starter
GT Member
 
squekster's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2014
Location: shirley
Posts: 1,647
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhuggler View Post
Do you have a dial indicator? Run the hold-down bolts down until you hit zero lash, zero the indicator and buzz it down the rest of the way. That'll tell you for sure what you have.
That's the problem the pedestal is completely seated when tightened by hand.
Torquing the bolt has no effect on the preload. I used this method originally.

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/hydro-lift.pdf
squekster is offline  
post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 6 Days Ago Thread Starter
GT Member
 
squekster's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2014
Location: shirley
Posts: 1,647
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
Why don't you do it right the first time and perform the P/R check on both the intake and exhaust valves?

You are absolutely right. I have been known to cut corners.

squekster is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome