Just wanted to say thanks to Eagle and everyone on hee for their help and advice. By the way if this ever happens again I am paying the shop the 550!!! That job sucked!!!
Anyway someone on hee had some advice on grounding the core... Anyone know where that is? I thought there were pictures and some instructions...
Oh also anyone know a good book or step by step for body work and paint?
I have read and been told that the heater core in these cars is a pain to change. My 1990 gt was already changed when I bought the car. My first foxbody was a 1988 4cyl LX and it did go bad when I still owned the car. I do a lot of my own work but that was one job I did not want to do so my friends father who is like a second father to me replaced it for the cost of the part plus $40 in labor he even wrote cheap labor on the recipt. Talk about a good deal.
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1990 Mustang gt
5-Speed
Flowtech headers
40 Series Flowmaster Mufflers
working ashtray lid
I always love how when you get done with a job there are always extra nuts and bolts.
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1979 Mustang Ghia-302 HO @ 300hp, holley 600 carb, edlebrock intake, under drive pulleys, Bullet proof C4, 8.8 inch rear end with 3.55, Flowmasters Delta 40s American Thunder 2, pioneer head unit with sony speakers.
2004 Mustang Mach 1-281 DOHC @ 305HP, Shaker, 5 speed, 8.8 rear end with 3.55, Mach 460, Sat radio, Flowmaster Delta 50s, Clear Bright Fog lights, alum items for interior dress up, and an eject button.
I always love how when you get done with a job there are always extra nuts and bolts.
Aint that the truth!!!!!! I hate doing those cores. I would like more info on grounding the cores. I unhook the battery when she goes in storage.......hoping that slows the electrolisis(sp).
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1993 Mustang GT, CAI,70mmTb w/ matching egr spacer, Edelbrock Performer,3/8 intake spacer, E-303 cam,Ported gt40's,A/C delete, Electric fans, 3g conversion,smog delete,MAC Longtubes w/ matching mid pipe(no cats),Dynomax cat back,Smog delete,Eibach lowering springs,King Cobra clutch,Welded subframe connectors,3:73's, All rolling on245/50/16 Toyo proxes 14.5 at 96.5mph 2007 13.73 at 100.45mph 2008 underlined is new for 09
adabiri2 is right. As long as your touching metal to metal (i.e. core to engine block or frame) you've got a ground. You could just strip a long enough piece of wire and tie a knot around the core if you wanted to. However, a hose clamp, or better yet, solder, will give you a much better connection. That way any charge that the coolant may pick up will discharge to ground and slow the corrosion.
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83 Mustang GLX Convertible 5.0/5 spd
78 Mustang II, t-tops, 347/4 spd King Cobra?
74 F-100 302/FMX 4x2
76 F-250 390/4 spd 4x4
1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. All original drivetrain. Factory center console and power top. Dual res. MC and power brake upgrade. Rust bucket brought back to life, I am the 2nd owner of "Lucy".
1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. Dynomax cat-back, K&N, the usual crap. Welded in subframes, welded in reinforcement plates (Ford riveted them in. Go Ford! )New engine and transmission. Date coded radiator hoses. Second owner of "Katie".
Oh no you guys are really scarin me. I've got to change mine as soon as we get some warmer weather here. I'm just glad its not a daily driver so there's no hurry.
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82 Gt, 331 stroker,Eagle rotating assy.World prod.Roush heads,E cam,crosswind intake W/ Holly carb,subframe connectors,BBK headers and H pipe,flowmasters,8.8 rear with 3.55 gears,10.5" king cobra clutch, T5 Trans,Hurst shifter.