1995 Mustang 5.0l HO standalone wiring harness - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018 Thread Starter
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1995 Mustang 5.0l HO standalone wiring harness

Hey all,
New here to the forum, thanks for having me!
I have been searching sites and forums for some time to figure out the best way to address my engine wiring.
So here is the story, I do not have a mustang but I have bought a 5.0 ho from a 95 Mustang to put in my 1965 F100.

I want to maintain the EFI but rather not pay $600 for a harness, seems like a rip off to me. I thought best to talk to you folks here in the Mustang forum as you would most likely know the most about the engine and its EFI system and wiring needs.

I have seen plenty of options for vehicles to harvest a harness to use to build a stand alone system. I am unclear on whether I can use my 1995 distributor and engine sensors if I use an older harness, or say one from an F150 or even explorer. It seems like Mustang has mass air flow, but some other models may not, even in 95?

Anybody have a link to a thread that shares info on this topic, or maybe has a suggestion of the best way to go as far as building my own harness/system from a donor vehicle? I want to try keeping the performance of the 5.0 ho as the mustang would have. I don't want it to me a sluggish old truck type of deal. lol

I really appreciate any input!!

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post #2 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018
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The '95 HO may be a little more challenging than some of the earlier versions, due to its computer and general layout, but the issue is all on top of your engine. The block itself, internals, heads, all the goodies except for the intake should do great. If you've enough determination, I'm sure you can make the wiring work too.

The '89-93 are favorites, due to their simplicity and mass air, along with the upper intake having a 90 degree bend for the air inlet stuff - which allows you to turn it 180 degrees from stock, putting it on the driver's side and using your existing throttle linkage instead of a cable pull throttle.

Here's some info from another forum that may be of use to you: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mo...swap-66-a.html

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post #3 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018 Thread Starter
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I guess I need to look at what a 95 engine requires. I have watched some youtube videos of people setting up F150 harnesses to make stand alone set up for the engines up to 93. I guess I am not clear on what is different when we get to the 95.
The engine is going into a 65 F100 so space is certainly no issue.
I am planning to hit the local salvage yard soon, hopefully before the week is out just to look at what is available. I have no issue using the 87-93 set up if I don't have to replace everything on my engine as it sits now. I realize something between distributors might be different in my 95 style. I guess it depends if I can find a 95 Mustang to use as a donor. I think the truck stuff is a little different in 95 than the mustang, but maybe I can accomplish the same thing using truck parts and my engine components? Or most of them anyway.

My goal for the EFI is to be completely on its own from the truck aside from ON/OFF and start. I want it to have all separate fuses and relays and power supplies from the trucks original stuff. I don't need the ECU operating fans or AC or anything else, I only want it to manage the EFI system and fuel pump to provide it fuel. Trying to keep the rest of the truck pretty basic, so a simple harness to operate the fuel injection and ignition would be great!
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post #4 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018
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Cool

I plan on doing the same thing to my '54 Ford Customline. I purchased a donor '93 Mustang and plan to use the motor, tranny, ECU and wiring harness from it. I see you're from Greenville. I assume that's Greenville, SC. If so, a quick search turned up this. Type in 1995 Ford Mustang. They have one that just came in.
https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/loca...e-212/recents/

Use this as a guide.................................
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif

Go up to the yard this weekend and pull the computer and necessary wiring harness. Not sure if the transmission shift points are controlled by the ECU or not. You might have to research that a little more.
In my '93, the engine harness is separate from the rest of the wiring and my AOD isn't computer controlled.

'93 5.0 LX ragtop - Donor car for '54 Ford Customline
'89 LX ragtop with turbo'd TC motor - Thunderstang!
'86 Turbo Coupe (daily driver)
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post #5 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018 Thread Starter
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Yes Greenville SC is right!
Thanks for the info, my set up is going to be a 5 speed manual so I don't have to worry about trans wiring.
I just need it to run. I need the engine harness, the under hood body harness from ECU to engine, and I need the ECU itself. I also need the MAF sensor so I might just grab an air filter box with one, and the tubing that goes along with it. I think if I follow a good pin-out and wiring diagram I should be able to eliminate the stuff not needed in a stock harness and build what I need into it for fuses and relays to operate what I need. Easier said than done I expect!
Is the 1995 system good to use, or better or worse than older system?? I see the preferred set up is pre 1994. I assume some of that is due to the length of time they were made that way and just more available. But if the 94-95 system is good, I am OK going that way. I think level of difficulty is probably the same either way. If I understand things right, if I want to use the 93 or older system, I would need to swap my distributor to the older style. Not sure if other sensors stay or go?
What is good, or bad on the 95 setup? Vs the pre 94 setup? I guess I need to know that before I go junkyard shopping.lol
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post #6 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018 Thread Starter
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Something else I just thought of, is a 95 OBD-2?
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post #7 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018
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There may be more differences that I'm not aware of, but the first thing that comes to mind is how the '94-'95 uses a remote ICM. This helps keep the module cool and avoid stalling when the engine gets hot.
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post #8 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuelsmoke1 View Post
Something else I just thought of, is a 95 OBD-2?
The 1995 mustang is OBD1. 1996 is the first year for OBD2.
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post #9 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018
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Here's one of the big differences, and a possible reason to go with the earlier version.

This is a pic of the '95:

And this is a pic of the earlier style:

Note how there's an 'elbow' on the '95? Well, on the '89 style where it's at a right angle, if you turn the top part around so the air intake is on the driver's side, you can hook up your throttle linkage almost exactly like it's a carb. No muss, no fuss, no need to replace your gas pedal and put in a cable-pull setup.

AFAIK, you can't do that with the '95 version, because that elbow prevents you from being able to. It may be that the throttle body can bolt straight up without the elbow, similar to the earlier version, but I'm not sure. I do know that later versions were cast with a non-removable elbow, which removes even more options.

In addition, the distributor on the '95 is kind of a pain compared to the '89, but the real kicker is probably going to be where the dipstick is located. You might be able to get away with the factory side mount, because your truck has more clearance on the sides, but I'm not sure. I know it doesn't work for those of us with shock towers, because there's no room for it. The '95 block has no place to actually mount the dipstick in the timing cover. The '89-93 version hasn't got the boss for a dipstick, but at least it has a flat place where you can drill the hole and mount it if you want.

The old EEC-IV computer is also rather friendly to do engine swaps with. The ODBC1 used in '95 is a little more persnickity.

EDIT: The top pic is NOT a stock '95 manifold, but a GT40 style. My bad!! No wonder the snout's removable.

Last edited by Grimbrand; 03-16-2018 at 12:41 AM.
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post #10 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018 Thread Starter
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I just set me engine into the truck, I have to nose off as I just did crown vic front end swap. I can keep the dipstick were it is with no problem. The mustang motor mounts were too wide for my f100 setup but I was able to use mounts for a 70's f100, that problem solved. I think my best bet by the sound of it is to swap out my distributor and go with the 93 and earlier set up. Mine does have the remote TFI (which I don't have). I also read that the explorer upper intake and throttle body are better than the 95 5.0l for performance. Sounds like my 95 TPS might be tricky compared to the earlier version. As I learn more, and see what I have, and others are doing, it makes sense why the pre-94 system is used. Seems like it is the best bet. Maybe if I had the 95 donor car sitting next to the truck it would make sense to use it, but to junkyard the whole deal, the older style seems easier to navigate!!

Do the upper intakes interchange without replacing the lower? mine is 95, the less liked style, can I just get a new gasket and throw a 96 explorer upper on it, or maybe a 92 mustang upper, or a 90's f150 etc? Just want to be sure to round up the right stuff!

I really appreciates everybody's input and experience, it is a HUGE help!!!
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I am pretty sure the Mustang manifolds have oval shaped holes, and the Explorer's are more 'rectangular' but there's no reason you can't use the upper AND lower Explorer intake - which is a bit better than the Mustang manifold. You have plenty of room in there I'm sure!
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The stock 87-93 & 94-95 intake has oval ports which are orientated in 1 single row.The Explorer gt40 intakes have round ports which are staggered.The picture at the bottom shows their port layout.The intake on top is the oem intake and the intake on the bottom is a gt40 intake.Therefore youll have to choose a upper/lower stock intake or a gt40 intake.If you were to buy a Explorer intake from Pull-A-Part,and you were planning to use the 94-95 or 87-93 throttle cable,the Explorer also came with a 65mm tb vs the stock 60mm tb.This tb can be used if you do a few small modifications to it.The first intake shown in post #9 is actually a Explorer gt40 intake,not the stock 94-95 intake. The sn95 intake has the curved elbow just like the Explorer does,but the sn95 intake elbow is cast into the intake instead of being removable like the gt40.If you use the Explorer tb,you can keep the Explorer tps in place,but youll have to remove the wires from its harness plug ,remove the wires from a sn95 or foxbody tps harness plug then reinsert the Explorer tps wires into the sn95 or foxbody plug,so it will match the sn95 or foxbody plug on the main harness.

If you decide to go with the foxbody ecm,wiring & distributor,you can actually relocate the foxbody tfi module to a remote mounted heat sink,like the sn95.Kits are available for $50+ or you can piece components together to make your own.The tfi being mounted to the distributor eventually suffers heat soak issues,so relocation of the module will get rid of those problems.

The 87-91 Mustang wiring had the fuel pump relay mounted under the driver seat on a separate harness while the 92-93 wiring had the relay mounted under the hood and the wiring is still part of the main ecm harness. Here are the ecm wiring schematics for the 88-91,92-93 & 94-95.
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D.S.S. 342ci {10.5:1}
TFS 190cc + track heat
Lunati 61011 .549".565"
Pro-M 76mm maf
Jetronic 30lb inj
QA1 Coilovers
17" Weld ProStar XP's
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Thanks for the clarification, WB. I *thought* the '95s had that curved snout on them. Was confused. =) That pic came up when I googled, and was erroneous.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimbrand View Post
Thanks for the clarification, WB. I *thought* the '95s had that curved snout on them. Was confused. =) That pic came up when I googled, and was erroneous.
Yeah parts get labeled wrong constantly on Google.The difference is easy to see when the upper & lower are side by side because of the inline ports on the stock intake vs staggered ports on the gt40.The difference between the 2 Explorer gt40 intakes is easy to see too.If the upper & lower intake has a hole in the center of them,where the uppers mounting flange meets the lower intake,its a 95-97 (Jan-Feb) gt40.If that hole is missing on both intakes,its a 97(Mar-Dec) - 01 gt40.The 95-97 has a boss at the act sensor and egr spacer return line port,but the 97-01 is missing these bosses.If its a gt40 intake from an actual Cobra,the act sensor and egr spacer return line port location will already be tapped,straight from the manufacturer and the ported fitting will be installed already. There wont be any visible signs of those two bosses either since Ford drilled/tapped those holes without the need of a visual locating reference (i.e.- boss)

1991 Mustang lx
D.S.S. 342ci {10.5:1}
TFS 190cc + track heat
Lunati 61011 .549".565"
Pro-M 76mm maf
Jetronic 30lb inj
QA1 Coilovers
17" Weld ProStar XP's
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post #15 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-16-2018 Thread Starter
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All of this info makes a carburetor look good. lol That said, I remember owning carbed vehicles, and EFI is just better in my opinion.

I am impressed with all of the knowledge here. If I can't trip across a good donor mustang or explorer, is there any point looking at an f150? I know there will be plenty of those to choose from. Just not sure how far off that may get if I try using anything from a truck.
I think one of my local salvage yards has a mustang or two, just not sure if they are 5.0 cars or 3.8s? I will try to get over there on Saturday if it isn't raining, I think I have a wet weekend in the forecast again but hopefully I get a chance to snag a few pieces!
I will try getting as much as possible from the same vehicle, and label everything also! This will be a new experience for me! Never wired , (or created from stock wiring) an efi system. I'm experienced in working with vehicle electronics but not actually making a system so this should be a fun time, and possibly a few choice words will pop up. haha Plus my experience is a little outdated. Most of my time dealing with vehicle electronics is with heavy duty trucks , like MACK and International, and the newest I touched was around 2005 or so. I'm sure the ford ecu, just like a mack system, is simple when you split up the individual systems within the whole package. Once you know how the unit communicates, it becomes easier to diagnose and work with.

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