Ring & Pinion help - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018 Thread Starter
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Ring & Pinion help

So after having a Yukon diff and 31 spline axles installed and switching from 3.73 to 3.31 r&p, it whistles upon deceleration. I don’t hear any clunking just like a whistle, or a whirl I guess is how I’d describe it. I did not have this issue with the 3.73’s and oem differentail. The 3.73’s are Ford and so are the 3.31’s that are in it now.
I told the guy who put the 3.31’s etc in about the noise and he said something to the effect that he went by Yukon’s specs and they call for a looser tolerance than Ford. So he set them to Yukon’s specs to not void the warranty. I’m thinking he should’ve used Ford specs since it is a ford gear set. Don’t y’all think? I’m thinking the install pdf I sent him for the Yukon diff and axles also must have had the Yukon r&p install instructions as well. Does the fact that it once was a 28 spline diff/axle and now it’s a 31 have play any factor? It shouldn’t huh?
He says that nothing is runbbing or being damaged. It’s irritating though. I want to take it back to him and tell him to fix it. But I kinda want to have my ducks in a row as far as what I’m going to tell and ask. It sucks to have to get more oil and friction modifier. Yukon also says to change it after the first 500 miles, so that’s another handful of dollars.
Here are the ford and Yukon r&p install pdf’s. Can y’all make since of what ford calls for and what Yukon says?
https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...htM-4209-8.pdf

https://lib.americanmuscle.com/files/T103222-manu.pdf

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018
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You can inquire about the noise you are hearing but i think
it just might disappear after the break in period. You have a new
carrier and ring and pinion. They have to get used to eachother.
Nice and easy for a while.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018
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My experience with ring and pinion gears if they are making noise when first installed and you don't address it immediately they will make noise for the life of the rear end.

FWIW, I used Yukon gears in my Barracuda and set it up according to Yukon's specs and the have been quiet for the past 80k miles.

I would also go by the manufacturer of the gears not Ford for the set up. The Yukon gears are not necessarily made to the same specs as a set of Ford brand gears.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018
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Me I'd first drain the rear and install the "Correct" fluid as recommended by the MFG. Some guys build and install with what ever their favorite lube happens to be. I've seen ATF. Higher weight lower weight that recommend. Various after market compounds and additives. Go with a good quality gear lube in the recommend viscosity with the additive recommend by the posi unit.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018
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I must have misread something in one of your other threads. I was under the impression that you had Yukon gears on the Yukon diff.

That might be it, then. Ford gears should be set to Ford specs.

(Also, since the gears are Ford, your break-in period might be less intensive than the Yukon one. The Yukon gears are said to have a "phosphoric coating" that contaminates the oil, necessitating a fluid change after break-in, unlike Ford's simpler break-in procedure. EDIT: on second thought, the Yukon diff's spider gears probably have that coating on them. So maybe you should proceed with the 500-mile break-in after all.)

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018
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Ford gears should always be set up to FORD specs. The carrier , limited slip , posi , trac lock , spool , whatever has NO effect on ring and pinion set up. The gears have to mesh correctly or they will be noisy. Noise equals abnormal wear and eventual breakage.
You need to take it back and have the installer correct it , fast.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
I must have misread something in one of your other threads. I was under the impression that you had Yukon gears on the Yukon diff.

That might be it, then. Ford gears should be set to Ford specs.

(Also, since the gears are Ford, your break-in period might be less intensive than the Yukon one. The Yukon gears are said to have a "phosphoric coating" that contaminates the oil, necessitating a fluid change after break-in, unlike Ford's simpler break-in procedure. EDIT: on second thought, the Yukon diff's spider gears probably have that coating on them. So maybe you should proceed with the 500-mile break-in after all.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gt350HR View Post
Ford gears should always be set up to FORD specs. The carrier , limited slip , posi , trac lock , spool , whatever has NO effect on ring and pinion set up. The gears have to mesh correctly or they will be noisy. Noise equals abnormal wear and eventual breakage.
You need to take it back and have the installer correct it , fast.
Thanks fellas. The differential and axles are Yukon brand, and the ring and pinion are FORD. So I guess I’ll have to take them to dumb nuts to have him fix them.
I have 75w90 gear oil and Yukon brand friction modifier in their now. Yukon brand is what Yukon calls for to not void their warranty.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squekster View Post
You can inquire about the noise you are hearing but i think
it just might disappear after the break in period. You have a new
carrier and ring and pinion. They have to get used to eachother.
Nice and easy for a while.
500 miles is Yukon’s stated beak in period. I’m kinda scared to let it go so long. Thus far it’s been 12.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2018 Thread Starter
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When I went from the oem 2.73 to 3.73 it was quiet.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
500 miles is Yukonís stated beak in period. Iím kinda scared to let it go so long. Thus far itís been 12.
The break in period is for the limited slip only. The gears will not last that long. Noisy gears do NOT get quiet after time . The only way they are quiet is when the car isn't moving LOL That comes from my 50+ years of Ford differential work.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gt350HR View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
500 miles is Yukon’s stated beak in period. I’m kinda scared to let it go so long. Thus far it’s been 12.
The break in period is for the limited slip only. The gears will not last that long. Noisy gears do NOT get quiet after time . The only way they are quiet is when the car isn't moving LOL That comes from my 50+ years of Ford differential work.
Thanks man, that’s what I was affraid of. I knew they shouldn’t be making any noise.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2018 Thread Starter
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So I called him and explained the situation. Long story short he was like “I set it to specs according to the literature.” I was a having a hard time getting him to understand that the Yukon differential instructions also included ring and pinion instructions but they assumed one would be using Yukon brand gears, so they listed then specs for a Yukon gear set.
I even sent him the ford racing pdf and he still didn’t get it. He was like why would Yukon day it’s supposed tothat way??
Talking wasn’t working so i sent him a text stating what that the gear set wasn’t included in Yukon’s warranty and that the Yukon literature was giving the specs if one was using a Yukon gear set. I said since it’s a ford gear set it needs to be setup to ford specs.
His feathers are getting kind of ruffled, but the rear isn’t right. I drove around today and it sounded like a supercharger whine coming from the rear upon deceleration.
He said he’d take a look at it. But he was still kinda offended like I was questioning his work. He was like I set it just to where they said to. And I’m like, you used the wrong instructions!
Also, I have an oil leak where the trans mates to the engine down by oil pan area.
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Man what a headache. Not just for you, but for the installer too. I can totally understand why he'd be hesitant to go back in and re-set the gears. But that's why it's gotta be done right the first time. Hopefully the pinion is in the right place, and only the ring gear will have to be adjusted.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
Man what a headache. Not just for you, but for the installer too. I can totally understand why he'd be hesitant to go back in and re-set the gears. But that's why it's gotta be done right the first time. Hopefully the pinion is in the right place, and only the ring gear will have to be adjusted.
Yeah it blows. You know what it sounds like? It sounds like a power steering pump howling. I can’t hear it when accelerating, only on decel.
I imagine he’ll get the gears set, but I bet he doesn’t get the leak fixed. I’m pretty sure it’s the rear main. It was leaking a little prior to the new clutch but not this bad. This is a a fairly decent leak.. F’n sucks..
He replaced the rear main and I think he put a sleeve on it. Well, didn’t work...
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Did you have him do the rear main seal work at the same time the gears were being done?
And am I seeing a crack in the 1st and 3rd pics or is that supposed to be there?


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