Mustangs plus as well as speedconcepts.net sell a 1979-93 Ford Racing 8.8" 5-Lug Rear Brake Drum/Axle Shaft Kit that allows a five lug swap for the rear while still keeping the drums in the rear also. Has anyone tried this kit before or know of anybody who has because I'm doing some research on which method I want to try and this sounds like a pretty easy and reliable way.
I used the Ford Motorsport cobra 5-lug kit (2300-k I believe) on my car, what kinda ticked me off is that I was told 6" offset 17x9's would work, that was not true. I had to custom order some new 17x9's with a 6 3/4" offset so I didn't have to flair the fenders. The kit will work with 17x8's fine but not standard 9"ers. The reason for this is the use of axles and parts from newer sn95 mustang which space the wheel mounting surface out 3/4". They don't tell you this in the kit anywhere so I just thought I'd throw the comment out here so people know if they go to use the kit in the future. =)
p.s. with 17x9's I fit 275 rear tires in too and only had to roll the inner lip a bit to have clearance.
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86' Mustang GT
-155k miles bone stock still purrs
88' Mustang GT T-Top
-Frame off'd. Built 347, tremec tko road race 5-speed, stripped interior, no stereo, caged, race seats, Maximum Motorsports susp incl. PH bar & Torque arm, Bilstien shocks, H&R springs, 5-lug conversion, big 4-wheel disc's, American Racing Torq Thrust M 17x9's, 3.73 gears, TOYO RA1 tires, Cervini Cobra/stalker body kit, 2.5" cowl hood, painted flat black
I used the Ford Motorsport cobra 5-lug kit (2300-k I believe) on my car, what kinda ticked me off is that I was told 6" offset 17x9's would work, that was not true. I had to custom order some new 17x9's with a 6 3/4" offset so I didn't have to flair the fenders. The kit will work with 17x8's fine but not standard 9"ers. The reason for this is the use of axles and parts from newer sn95 mustang which space the wheel mounting surface out 3/4". They don't tell you this in the kit anywhere so I just thought I'd throw the comment out here so people know if they go to use the kit in the future. =)
p.s. with 17x9's I fit 275 rear tires in too and only had to roll the inner lip a bit to have clearance.
I used the M-2300-K Kit also but it tells you that it uses 94-98 Axles and if you want to run 17x9s that the Correct Backspace to use is 6.42" and that you should roll your Fenderwell Lips.
I got my 17x9's with the 6" backspacing from Maximum Motorsports right before my brake kit came in, the moron on the phone at MM told me that thier 6" offset wheel was made just for the Ford kit. So once I had my brake kit a week later I didn't read through it all right there, I waited a few months til I started on my actual project and found out the first time I bolted up my new wheels and tires that they stuck out past the fenders.
So rather than believe anything I read in anything I got out an old fashioned tape measure and decided I wanted 6 3/4" for the rear cause they are the perfect offset. In the front I had to use a 1/4" wheel spacer to have proper amount of clearance to my strut. I would much rather have to space out a tiny bit than find out that I need new wheels all together.
Now that its all finished I can see where a 6.42" offset would prolly work, you would have to roll the back fenders a bit more than I had to but front would be perfect.
Just don't let anyone on the telephone tell you that 6" is special made for what your doing with the 2300 kit. I was not properly informed when I believed this and it cost me a thousand bucks to fix the mistake. But in the end the limited edition Shelby Torq Thrust M wheels look WAY better anyways.
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86' Mustang GT
-155k miles bone stock still purrs
88' Mustang GT T-Top
-Frame off'd. Built 347, tremec tko road race 5-speed, stripped interior, no stereo, caged, race seats, Maximum Motorsports susp incl. PH bar & Torque arm, Bilstien shocks, H&R springs, 5-lug conversion, big 4-wheel disc's, American Racing Torq Thrust M 17x9's, 3.73 gears, TOYO RA1 tires, Cervini Cobra/stalker body kit, 2.5" cowl hood, painted flat black
The Ford Racing 17x9 '03 Cobra wheels I'm running have a 6.125" BS. This put the wheels about even with the fenders which is where I wanted them. I did have to roll the lip on the rear fenders, no modifications to the front. I'm also lowered about an inch with no serious rubbing issues, but I do take into careful consideration the routes I take into certain parking lots, driveways, railroad crossings, etc.
I have a 1966 Mustang with a 5.0L engine, T5 transmission, as well as front and rear suspension from a 1987 Mustang which makes it 4 lug. I'm going to convert it over to 5 lug very soon and will be using the Mustang 87-93 conversion kit, 5 lug with 28 spline axles kit from latemodelrestoration.com. My question is that im wanting to run American Racing Torque Thrust II's with the size being 17x7 with 4" backspacing with a 225/45/117 tire and wanted to know if anybody knows if this will work. I know it may require a 1/8 or 1/4 wheel spacer but if anybody could give me some info that'd be great. I do know that the Ford Bullitt wheels use a 1/8 spacer with the kit in order to work if that makes any difference. Thanks
I just completed the 5 lug conversion, but I'm having an issue with the rims I wanted to put on. I've had these a while, and got an amazing deal, it's the whole reason I did the conversion really. Anyways they are just the Pony wheels with the center cap. They fit great, except in the front. The cap does not clear the the dust cap. Any ideas on what I should do? Just sell these rims and look for others? I really like this style though.... Ugh!
Check my profile for more pics.
Is it safe to use spacers? I think I figured out where I screwed up. I used Lincoln rotors up front, so the dust cap sticks out quite a bit. If the 1/8" spacers don't work, do thicker ones exist or shoudl I give it up?
Yes, the lincoln rotors dust cap is too tall to use with SN95 wheels. You can use spacers, I wouldn't use them for anything other than daily driving though. You should be able to find 1/4" spacers pretty easily also if you need them. Just make sure your studs are long enough to thread on your lug nuts completely.
Which would you recommend then, the spacers that use the studs from the rotor, or the kind that has their own studs, and uses the rotors studs to be attached. Seemed like that might be a stronger choice, even if it is just for a daily driver.
I've never seen any spacers that thin that have their own studs. It looks like from your picture that your lugnuts are open and the stud sticks out past the end of the nut. I'd say so long as that nut is fully engaged with the stud it will be fine.
Thats good then, the other spacers were more along the lines for 1", and I was hoping to just use 1/2" or less if possible. I'll just measure the the dust cap to see how far it needs to be offset to clear the center wheel cap. Thanks!
Still cannot believe how much easier the rear end was then the front. After the spacers are in, on to rewiring the sucker!
Issues with my new rims 
Using Spacers 
