Car won't start after changing fuel pump. Still having problems! Help Inside! - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-14-2003 Thread Starter
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Unhappy Car won't start

I was coming across the parking lot on Sunday and I got on it good. When I reached the stop sign it died. I use to hear the fuel pump cycle when the key was first turned, now you can't hear anything. I replaced the fuel pump with a BBK 225LPH and still the same thing. The car has gas but it just cranks and cranks. Any suggestions on what to check? I'm not very good at trouble shooting so pulling codes may be hard for me. Thanks

1990LX Hatchback, Trick Flow twisted wedge heads, eletric fan, underdrive pullies, BBK equal length headers, BBK cold air induction, 125 wet shot, Cobra intake, Southside lift bars, Southside upper control arms, 3.73 gears, custom Crane cam, weld racing rims, skinnies up front, 75mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, #24 injectors, AOD w/shift kit, 2500 stall, B&M Tranny cooler, Ford Racing Plug wires, 255LPH Walbro, B&M Hammer shifter.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-15-2003
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Check fuses

Have owned 10+ 'stangs from 65-95.
1st was '65 289 3 speed (bought from original owner for $300, body was straight-no rust), fastest was '86 coupe with 468 and aluminum CJ heads, current car is '95 Cobra with 18x9 and 18x10
.5 rims full length headers, SLP exhaust, K&N cool air.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-15-2003
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It sounds like the inertia switch could have been deployed. When ever you change fuel pumps or filters or anything remotely related to gasoline you have to mess with that. Your car will do exactly what it is doing if that little switch isn't plugged in all the way or the button isnt pushed. Check that, it should be in the back of your car behind some plastic paneling, mine has a red button.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-15-2003
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Ok this is for everybody.
Before throwing in parts and hoping it will solve your problems, take a while and try and diagnose as much as you can, then replace the defective part.

WhyTry, first get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge and install it on your fuel rail and check the pressure. If it is zero, possibities are a fuel pump rely and EEC relay the inertia switch or a wiring problem.
If you do have fuel pressure then it has to be electrical. Spark related, primary or secondary side of ignition system. If the check engine light was on when you were driving then there should be a code stored in the memory. If it simply won't start then I doubt that there is a code.
Fuel pumps and relays and ignition systems are not sensors so there will not be any codes.

This gives me an idea for a thread....... good luck
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-15-2003 Thread Starter
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Ok, this is what I learned today. I pulled codes and the only code that I got was 95 (fuel pump secondary circuit fault). I went and talked to the Ford house today and the parts guy had no clue. He went and talked to a mech and the mech said the systems are just opposite of the way you would think. Primary means relays and fuses. Secondary means the fuel pump or mechanical problems. Now to me this don't make sense, does it make sense to anybody else? I borrowed a fuel pump relay from a buddy and still nothing. I stopped by Pep Boys on the way home and talked to a mech. there and he said that there are two relays. One under the hood pass. side and one under the drivers seat. I also tried the one under the seat and nothing. Now I busted out the test light and no power to the fuel pump is present at the fuel fuel pump end. I guess what I need to know is, is there anything I have missed testing and is there any fuses for the fuel pump. All the fuses in the fuse box are good, are there any located anywhere else that you can't see. I also check the inertia switch and it was fine.

1990LX Hatchback, Trick Flow twisted wedge heads, eletric fan, underdrive pullies, BBK equal length headers, BBK cold air induction, 125 wet shot, Cobra intake, Southside lift bars, Southside upper control arms, 3.73 gears, custom Crane cam, weld racing rims, skinnies up front, 75mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, #24 injectors, AOD w/shift kit, 2500 stall, B&M Tranny cooler, Ford Racing Plug wires, 255LPH Walbro, B&M Hammer shifter.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-15-2003 Thread Starter
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Ok, I'm sitting here reading the Chilton's manual and it say code 95 is
fuel pump secondary circuit failure - ECA to ground. What does
ECA to ground mean?

1990LX Hatchback, Trick Flow twisted wedge heads, eletric fan, underdrive pullies, BBK equal length headers, BBK cold air induction, 125 wet shot, Cobra intake, Southside lift bars, Southside upper control arms, 3.73 gears, custom Crane cam, weld racing rims, skinnies up front, 75mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, #24 injectors, AOD w/shift kit, 2500 stall, B&M Tranny cooler, Ford Racing Plug wires, 255LPH Walbro, B&M Hammer shifter.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-15-2003
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The ECM controls the fuel pump relay under your seat. I had my 88 GT do the same thing. My relay used to stick and the pump would cycle when the car was off. As the pump cycled it fried my computer. The car would not fire off, just crank and crank like your car WHYTRY. I used a piece of wire to bypass the relay to jump the pump and that was the only way i got the pump to run. But still the ECm was fired so the car still never fired off. You might never hear your pump stay on when you shut your car off. I only noticed it when i was working on it. All the other times you probably just shut the car off lock it up and walk away. Find a buddy with a Stang with a 89 car and up for the MAF. Plug his comp in and see if it runs. Oh yeah only buy FORD relays. Me a buddy each on diffrent time when threw a box of relays at a local PArts Pro and Auto Zone. THe FORD ones work because there not a general all purpose relay like the parts store Ford relays. Give it a try. BEfore you buy anything.

88 GT NA 306, AFR 165s FTI cam, no numbers yet
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2003
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I have a 92 and had my inline fuse go out when I had a spike in voltage and the wire fried, cutting off power to the fuel pump. I would check the wire running along the driver's side to see if there's a fuseable link there... Buy a new link. Find the short and replace wiring with proper gauge wires.

"Mad" Max
1992 LX, thanks to Chicane Sport Tuning and some friends.. it is now wrapped with new graphics and ready to hit the streets AGAIN!!!!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2003 Thread Starter
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I found the problem it was the fuel pump carriage. It had a short somewhere in the plastic connector. It runs great now. Thanks for all the help.

1990LX Hatchback, Trick Flow twisted wedge heads, eletric fan, underdrive pullies, BBK equal length headers, BBK cold air induction, 125 wet shot, Cobra intake, Southside lift bars, Southside upper control arms, 3.73 gears, custom Crane cam, weld racing rims, skinnies up front, 75mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, #24 injectors, AOD w/shift kit, 2500 stall, B&M Tranny cooler, Ford Racing Plug wires, 255LPH Walbro, B&M Hammer shifter.
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