i've been thinking about buying a set of lakewood traction bars since wheelhop is starting to drive me mad. has anyone on this forum used these before? how well do they work? any better ideas on what lca's to use? i don't have quad shocks or a pinion snubber since this is an '83
1993 GT Convertible,AOD.3.27's
Custom paint, 3 in Cowl hood
Saleen Wing.40 series Flows
Clear headlights..Removed air filter silencer,K&N air filter cheap cold air intake.More Mods to come.
1987 GT convertible.AOD some type of shift kit
transcooler,Paxton SN93 supercharger...
70mm TB,BBK headers,more mods to come.
I know people who have used them and they're lots better than the stock stamped lower arms. They change the contact point for the rear, increasing traction. They'd work just fine, you could couple them with some upper arms as well, the more control the better.
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Ask me why I ran "only" a 13.54.
Member: NMRA Member: White Mustang Registry #362 Member: Fuzzy Dicer
so how are they for street driving? i've heard that lca's with hard, two-piece poly bushings can cause suspension bind and even tear the lower torque boxes. has anyone ever had these problems?
I had lakewood traction bars on my chevy step side with a 383 and i couldnt get it to burn out with out power breaking it just hooked up and launched and it wasnt bad in town eithier i had no problems with them i took them off my 88 to put on a 4 link set up and just sold them
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1989 gt 5.0 5 speed Hurst short throw shifter, Brand new summit racing long tubes MAC shorty H pipe in to 2 super 50 series flows with 45 degree turn outs. MSD billet distributor MAC CAI 140 speedo all this and shes pretty on the way MSD 7 al ignition,
Yes thats the ones i would like to use are they ok to use on the street?
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1993 GT Convertible,AOD.3.27's
Custom paint, 3 in Cowl hood
Saleen Wing.40 series Flows
Clear headlights..Removed air filter silencer,K&N air filter cheap cold air intake.More Mods to come.
1987 GT convertible.AOD some type of shift kit
transcooler,Paxton SN93 supercharger...
70mm TB,BBK headers,more mods to come.
You should be able to use those, and the binding issues aren't a given, that problem seems to be hit and miss as to whether or not you'll have it pop up.
__________________
MOOG Certified Tech. For mods and sound clips, see profile and gallery.
Ask me why I ran "only" a 13.54.
Member: NMRA Member: White Mustang Registry #362 Member: Fuzzy Dicer
Yes thats the ones i would like to use are they ok to use on the street?
I hear they're ok for street use so long as you weld up your torque boxes as they tend to tear the stock one up pretty quick. Mostly because they hook so damned good. Good luck
having them welded in next week. Not sure i really need them, but along with the full length subframe connectors i had welded in last week, should make for cheap insurance if i ever decied to put an engine in this car that makes good power.
DO those kits come with instructions? i would think they do i would like to know so a welder would be able to install them for me...are they hard to install you think?
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1993 GT Convertible,AOD.3.27's
Custom paint, 3 in Cowl hood
Saleen Wing.40 series Flows
Clear headlights..Removed air filter silencer,K&N air filter cheap cold air intake.More Mods to come.
1987 GT convertible.AOD some type of shift kit
transcooler,Paxton SN93 supercharger...
70mm TB,BBK headers,more mods to come.
I bought a set of Lakewood Suspension 20161 traction bars and had them installed in my car(setup listed in my Sig). I first installed a stiffer set of FMS "C" springs and coil over shocks trying to fix my wheel hop problem, but it didn't. I can now burn the tires off the rims and keep a straight line no problem. The traction bars most definiatly fixed my hop problem but created a whole new problem. My car now rides like a F'ing covered wagon! If I was only using the car to race, this setup would be killer! Seeing as this is my fun car and the major amount of road hazards/pot holes I encounter driving on the weekends, the stiff suspension makes me worry I am driving my frame, car and back to an early grave! You will also lose your rear sway bar in the switch.
This is the set I am using in the link below, keep in mind this is Lakewoods best set of slapper style traction bars.
I am currently buying the parts to change my setup now because I can't stand the crappy ride anymore. After tons of research, I have decided to buy a set of Strange Engineering S6000EM shocks plus Ford Racing M-5500-A uppers and a set of Ford Racing M-5649-H lowers. I am being told this is the way to go if you want great traction and retain a decent ride.
Hope this helps,
Robert
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84 RS Capri w/T-tops, Z class T-5 w/Hurst rip stick & Alum. FMS Driveshaft , 91 roller block w/balenced Eagle 347 kit w/Forged flat top pistons, CR is around 10.5, Edel. Alum. Heads with 2.02/1.60 valves & Crower Stainless 1.6 Roller Rockers. FMS E303 Cam. Edel. RPM Airgap w/Holly 650 DP & Hi vol. mech. Fuel pump. Complete Hooker 1 5/8 to 2.25 offroad exhaust w/Flowmasters, Full Pro MSD ignition syst., 31 spline 8.8 w/eaton posi 3.55 gears, 330RWHP, FMS (C) springs, 17" Center Line Scorpions
does anyone here use lakewood traction bars? 
If I was only using the car to race, this setup would be killer! Seeing as this is my fun car and the major amount of road hazards/pot holes I encounter driving on the weekends, the stiff suspension makes me worry I am driving my frame, car and back to an early grave! You will also lose your rear sway bar in the switch.
