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Unread 06-09-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default Fuel Injected Mustangs "Crank and No Start" Checklist

First and foremost, I want all those reading this to know that I, personally, did not write this Checklist. I have only revised it, attempting to make it easier to read, and posting it to assist fellow AFM Members with their issues. This Checklist is merely a guide to help assist you in deciphering problems, rather than banging your head against the wall for hours without a clue. I give full credit to jrichker of StangNet.com for creating this checklist. His website is located here: index . Any questions about any of this, please contact the original writer.

Important Wiring Diagrams for this Checklist can be located Here:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-98 model cars

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs


Special Notes
  • All text applies to all models unless stated otherwise.
  • 94-95 Model-Specific Information in Red
  • Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.


Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle doesn’t roll away.

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Use a Metal Jumper to connect the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.


No spark: Possible failed items in order of their probability
  • MSD or Crane ignition box (If so equipped)
  • Coil
  • TFI Module
  • PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. See paragraph 5A - a Noid Light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
  • No ECC or Computer Power - ECC or computer relay failure
  • 86-93 models only: ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
  • 94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
  • No ECC or Computer Power - Fuse or Fuse link failure
  • 86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness – Check to make sure that there is 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
  • 94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
  • Ignition switch - Look for 12 volts at the Ignition Coil Red/Light Green wire. If it is not reading 12 Volts: possible blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire with the switch in the Run position. If there isn’t 12 volts then the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position, then the fuse link is blown.
  • 94-95 models only: Check inside fuse panel for fuse #18 blown – 20 amp fuse
  • Bad or missing secondary power ground. This ground is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
  • Computer
  • Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position: Pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire on the coil with the switch in the Run position. If reading 12 volts, then replace the TFI. If not reading 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.



Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and Check to see Spark.

2.) No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
  • Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
  • Distributor cap
  • Rotor
  • Spark Plug wires
  • Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil


3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs vary depending upon Brand and Size. Pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. DO NOT TRY TO START THE CAR WITHOUT RECONNECTING THE AIR DUCT.

Two reasons for this
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue.

Clue: Listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the EEC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground. The EEC connector is near the wiper motor and LH hood hinge.

If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump.

Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In a pinch, you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have. If you have any doubts about having sufficient fuel flow/pressure, rent a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store. That will tell you for sure if you have adequate fuel pressure.


4.) No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability
  • Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
  • Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most Mustangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
  • Clogged fuel filter
  • Failed fuel pump
  • 86-90 models only: Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay.
  • 91-93 models only Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
  • The fuse links for all model years 86-93 live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
  • 94-95 models only: 20 amp fuel pump fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the Dark green/yellow wire on the constant control relay module.
  • Engine seems to load up on fuel and may have black smoke at the tailpipe. Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while the pump is running. If fuel is coming out the vacuum port, the regulator has failed. Check the regulator vacuum line for fuel too. Disconnect it from the engine and blow air though it. If you find gas, the regulator has failed.


5.) Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.
  • A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector wiring.
    The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and it will flash if the injector is firing.
  • [jrichker likes] to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. [jrichker would] hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too. [Not certain about this step]
  • Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
  • No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
  • No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.
  • TPS voltage exceeds 3.7 volts with the throttle closed. This will shut off the injectors, since the computer uses this strategy to clear a flooded engine. Use a DVM, a pair of safety pins, and probe the black/white and green wires to measure the TPS voltage.
  • On a 94-95 Mustang, probe the black/white and grey/white wires to measure the TPS voltage.
  • It should be .5-.99 volts with the key on, engine not running. Note that if the black/white wire (signal ground) has a bad connection, you will get some strange readings. Make a second measurement using the battery post as the ground to eliminate any ground problems. If the readings are different by more than 5%, you may have a high resistance condition in the black/white signal ground circuit.


6.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.
  • Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle way down and try to start the car.
  • Failed computer (not very likely)
  • Engine ignition or cam timing off (only likely if the engine has been worked on recently)
  • Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
    HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
    Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
  • No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.
  • Engine that has had the heads off or valves adjusted. Do a compression test to make sure the valves are not adjusted too tight. You should have a minimum of 90 PSI on a cold engine.


Hope this helps all those with issues!

-YB
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Unread 06-09-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Wow that covers it all, great post!
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Unread 06-10-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Glad this made it to the top of the page! This sticky helped me fix my no start when hot problem. Great job!!!
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Unread 06-11-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks, This helped me solve problems on engine swap.
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Unread 06-17-2008   #5 (permalink)
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This is some good info, but my car is still giving me a little trouble.

It's an 88 GT I just frame off'd it and sometimes before I tore it all down it would just die after it had run for a while, pretty consistantly actually it will die. Also when the key is first turned to the run position all electrical works fine(blinkers all that stuff, I have no stereo so not sure about that), but after car is started I will have no blinkers or basic elec that I should have in run postion.

I still have the problem now that the car is finished, one of the only things I have not changed in the complete rebuild of the car is the starter switch, so I am going to swap that out and I am hoping that fixes the run/elec issues. Now I think that the loss of spark issue is different possibly. I did a basic test for my ignition, I went out and ran it around the block til it died then I ran a jumper wire from 12V to the coil power so I know at this point that I have power to my ignition coil. Still no spark. I am thinking I have a bad ignition switch AND a bad TFI module. The goofy part is I have a different stock distributor in the new motor than the one that was origionally in the car when it first started having problems...I can hear the fuel pump running so I know it isn't a fuel issue I have 43lbs of fuel pressure at my rails so its def spark issue. Another noticable symptom is that my starter cranks very slowly when the car is warm, I thought it was due to a bad starter, but after the car dies and loses spark it cranks over like a mofo with no problems, however I am going to put in a new starter as well with gear reduc so it doesn't have to work so hard. I have bypassed my MSD 6AL and the problem is still the same and tried diff coils, I had an extra MSD coil laying around and it origionally had stock one all see the same problem.

I am wondering if any of you have input on this one its really boggling for me, could I be having a problem with a fusable link perhaps? Or am I likely right in thinking I have two diff distributors with a bad TFI module? Any input would be great if anyone has an idea as to this problem of mine, this car straight rips til it dies so it really sucks not wanting to leave the area of a few blocks knowing that the car will die a few times on a test drive.
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Unread 06-17-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1170 View Post
Glad this made it to the top of the page! This sticky helped me fix my no start when hot problem. Great job!!!

Which part was your problem, I missed your post in my origional read? Maybe I have the same issue.

P.S. My ECT sensor is brand new also.
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Unread 06-26-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Default ignition issues

Is there a correlation? Many people with ignition problems also run MSD?!?!

A friend of mine had a smooth running engine, put in an MSD unit and now occasionally gets a "hiccup" with the thing. Not bad enough to shut him down, just annoying.
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Unread 08-23-2008   #8 (permalink)
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wish it was simple as fuel, fire, and compression.lol i believe that is just the base of things
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Unread 08-24-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Also this one I had there is a little box I guess that's what it is at the ignition solenode that was keeping mine from firing up it was missing . this on my 86 wire harness and I also noticed it on other 80's fords with fuel injection.
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Unread 09-09-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Glad to help.

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Unread 11-09-2008   #11 (permalink)
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ya i have the same kind of problems i just got another wiring harness had short in there also plug at end that hookd to distr. had short in it but was not all the time.ranwhen it wanted and did not run when it dident want and i notice power was falling off .after changing distr,wires coil re-doing grounds.had module tested really hope this does it im dying to dyno tune the CAR GET A #
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Unread 12-22-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks that's some good info
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Unread 01-13-2009   #13 (permalink)
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there should be a carbed version of this
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Unread 03-20-2009   #14 (permalink)
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I tried all this and I'm not getting any fire passed the distributor and my fuel pump is not kicking on, I think its a bad ground. Any suggestions?
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Unread 04-02-2009   #15 (permalink)
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In Young Buck's forum #6. If engine won't start when hot & must push throttle 1/4 down. Replace ECT. ECT? Coolant Temp Sensor?
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