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Old 03-30-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Question 1991 Mustang GT has hesitation under acceleration .. what could be the cause?

Sorry for the long post.
I am having problems with my 91 GT (173,000 miles) under acceleration. It has:
stock internals, stock heads, GT-40 upper/lower intake, 65mm throttle body, 76mm C&L intake with k&n, full exhaust, 3:55 gears etc...

It does it when I step on the accelerater (at about 2000 rpm). The car accelerates for about a second or two then makes a loud popping, like an explosion underneath the car. I back off the accelerator and everything is fine.

I thought at first this was the timing. Its been set at 14 for the longest time with no problems and recently its been doing this more and more. So I backed it off a bit to 13, same problem happens, 12 same thing, now at 10 and it hardly ever does it but performance sucks. I thought maybe the heat was causing it so I swapped the 180 thermostat for a new 160 and it still happened.

I checked the computer and there are no error codes. The only thing I get is when I am driving at part throttle at a steady 2000rpm it flashes the check engine light for about 3 seconds then goes off for a second then comes back on, etc.. It does this hot or cold at random times. When I take my foot off the gas the light stays off. Im not sure how to drive it and get the code number that comes up cause I use the multimeter on that connection under the hood......

For shits and giggles I did a compression test. All cylinders came out about 125-135. 5 of the spark plugs have oil on the threads,but not too much.

With exception to the oil on the spark plugs everything is in fine order (or so it seems). Plugs, wires, dist. is new.

Oh and just to see how pathetic my car was behaving I took it to the track. Best time of 15.5 in the 1/4 mile on street tires at night in 75 degree weather.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Kenny
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Old 03-31-2003   #2 (permalink)
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Buy a code scanner at Sears, codes are stored in KAM so you will be able to retrieve them.
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Old 03-31-2003   #3 (permalink)
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Ill give it a try and see what comes up. What kind of scanner is the best to buy? Would any type of OBD-I scanner work? Any idea how much they cost?

Last edited by mccoigk; 03-31-2003 at 03:08 AM.
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Old 04-01-2003   #4 (permalink)
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I was having the same problem turned out to be the egr valve. Changed the whole unit just put a used one on cost me 10 bucks.
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Old 04-01-2003   #5 (permalink)
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I would also check the TPS(throttle position sensor). If the voltage is way off it will cause the probs you describe.
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Old 04-01-2003   #6 (permalink)
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You don't need a code scanner to get the stored codes. Your multi-meter will work fine. Here is a link that describes how to pull the codes:
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

Also, here is a cut/paste of that page but I see that the pictures in the page didn't make the transfer so you'd better use the link above for the full info:


CODE TYPES AND FORMATS
TYPES OF CODES

NOTE: Some people have problems distinguishing the different codes. READ THIS SECTION CAREFULLY.
There are drawings of the code formats at the end of this section.

FAST CODES

Fast codes contain the fault information output in the normal slow codes but are output about 100 times faster.
These are the first things output on a Key On Engine Off test.

HARD FAULTS

Hard faults are problems that the computer has located RIGHT NOW. Examples are a sensor out of range or a broken wire (open circuit).

Hard faults are the FIRST set of slow codes output in a Key On Engine Off test. BEFORE the SEPARATOR pulse.

In a Key On Engine Running test, there are ONLY HARD FAULT codes. These are output right after the fast codes.

SEPARATOR PULSE

The separator pulse is a single pulse that indicates the END of hard fault codes and the BEGINNING of memory codes.
It will show up as a code 10 on most digital testers.

MEMORY CODES

Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.

NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.

ENGINE ID

The engine ID in a running test is a series of pulses equal to one half the number of engine cylinders. A 4 cylinder engine ID is 2 pulses, a 6 cylinder ID is 3 pulses and an 8 cylinder ID is 4 pulses. A diesel ID is 5.

GOOSE CODE

A "GOOSE" code (also called a dynamic response test) is output during an engine running test. This is a single pulse to signal you to quickly move the throttle approximately 1/2 way down and release.

NOTE: Not all engines give a "GOOSE" code.

CODE FORMATS

Codes are output as a series of pulses. The following charts show the (approximate) timing of the various code pulses.

NOTE: Two digit codes are shown. Three digit codes have similar timing. It just takes a little practice to distinguish between two and three digit types.





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


TESTS
[Top of Page]


NOTE: Vehicle should be fully warmed for all tests.

HOOKUP

See figure below. EEC IV vehicles have two connectors for self testing the system. They are located on the firewall or the left or right front fender. The large connector contains the self test output (STO) and ground (SIG RTN). The small pigtail is the self test input (STI).




KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST

NOTE: On 4.9L trucks with a manual transmission hold the clutch pedal in during this test.
On Diesel engine trucks hold the throttle to the floor during this test.

1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.

2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).

3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).

4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).
NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.

5. Read hard faults.

6. Separator Pulse.

7. Read memory codes.

8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

[2 digit codes] [3 digit codes]

KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) TEST

1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.

2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).

3. Hook up light and jumper (or tester if you have one).

4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.

5. Engine I.D. should be output.

6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn.
If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.

7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.

8. Fast Codes are output (ignore).

9. Read codes.

10. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

[2 digit codes] [3 digit codes]

CYLINDER BALANCE TEST

NOTE: This test is only available on Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) Engines.

Start an engine running test and press the accelerator lightly within 2 minutes after the last code is output. The PCM will cancel each cylinder in turn and measure the RPM drop. If any weak cylinders are noted their number will be output as a multiple of 10 (e.g. 30, 40). The output is the actual cylinder number, not the number in the firing order. NOTE: Will not always pinpoint bad injectors.

WIGGLE TEST

Engine running or engine off tests

Hook up for a self test but do not hook up the self test trigger. Turn key to on. Hook up the trigger, wait 10 seconds and disconnect. Hook up trigger again . Tap suspected sensors (be careful if engine is running), wiggle the wiring harnesses etc. IF the PCM picks up a fault the self test output will pulse and a memory code will be stored (The value of this is questionable. I NEVER located a problem with it. - JT).

MEMORY ERASE

To erase the memory disconnect the self test trigger while the codes are being output. You COULD also disconnect the battery but then the PCM forgets some important running characteristics.

OUTPUT STATE TEST

NOTE: Do not perform on E4OD diesel.

Run the KOEO test all the way through and leave the test hooked up.

Cycle throttle 3/4 open and closed while watching tester, light or voltmeter. Self test output will switch with every throttle activation. On some testers (like my old pocket testers) the light will only pulse every other push. But the outputs still switch EVERY time.

Solenoids (EGR etc.) will switch on or off with every throttle activation (push throttle they're on, push throttle they're off). You should be able to hear clicks as the solenoids switch states. The test will work for most solenoids: AIRB, AIRD, BOOST, EGR, EVR (NOTE: EVR does not click but vacuum cycles).
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Old 04-03-2003   #7 (permalink)
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it could be a backfire too much pressure from aftermaket exhaust..??
just an idea
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Old 04-05-2003   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks everyone for your help so far--

OK - I pulled these codes from memory:

31 and 96

Correct me if Im wrong but 31 is EGR valve position sensor? under voltage???

Looks like 89Blue5.0 was correct in assuming the EGR. I'll look into replacing that stuff.


96 is thermactor air system problem. What the hell is the thermactor air system? Is that related to the smog pump and the chracoal canister? I removed the smog pump years ago.

I checked the TPS too and its set at 0.95V

As for the exhaust - Ever since it was installed it has popped and backfired on downshifting. But I dont think that could cause the problems I was talking about..... The exhaust is BBK 1 5/8 unequal shortie headers, off-road h-pipe and flowmasters. After the flowmasters are the stock pipes.

Anyway thanks everyone for your help. Any clue about the thermactor air system.....????
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Old 04-16-2003   #9 (permalink)
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i have a stupid question but im only 17
ok what is running the codes mean how do you do it
could you email me at mustang_man002@yahoo.com thank you
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Old 04-17-2003   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by mustang_man001
i have a stupid question but im only 17
ok what is running the codes mean how do you do it
could you email me at mustang_man002@yahoo.com thank you
It means hooking up a code scanner or multimeter to the engine diagnostic hookup under the hood. ITs located drivers side fenderwall. This lets you access the error codes stored in the computers memory. The posting just up the page tells the different kinds of scans you can do to get them. You only have to do this if the check engine light is coming on.
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Old 04-17-2003   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
96 is thermactor air system problem
Maybe mass airflow needs a good cleaning. ....??? It couldn't hurt.
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Old 04-17-2003   #12 (permalink)
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Well I cleaned it about 2 months ago. I guess your right, it wouldnt hurt to do again.

As for the thermactor air system, i found out its a fancy term for the smog pump... And yes I bypassed it years ago.

I read in another post somewhere that at a mileage such as mine the timing chain starts getting slack in it??? This causes the timing to be off which supposedly could cause the problems Im talking about.
Anyone know if this is possible or not???
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Old 05-29-2006   #13 (permalink)
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Hi dont mean to interupt here, I having the same problem on a 91 5.0 Automatic, There is a loud poping noise that accurs down below just like mccoigk stated when the popoing ocuurs its starts to happen more frequently I have pulled the codes 31 and 29
31 EGR valve out of range-
29 open speed sensor
I aware that the speeometer is not working properly which is correct. But for the EGR I have tested with a vacum and turn out that it was no good, The next thing i did was disconnect the plug below the EGR valve so it wont be activated. Well poping still occurs I have replace the MAF, clean air filter and have done a complete engine test, it all reads perfectly. Any advise will be great for us I am thinking swicthing dist or the module next. I forgot to mention the engine is complete stock with Cobra intake. Thanks in advance
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Old 07-14-2006   #14 (permalink)
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if the egr valve is stuck open just unplugging it wont solve the problem. Try replacing it. Might solve your problem
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Old 07-14-2006   #15 (permalink)
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Had a similar problem. Mine would shut off in traffic and then run crappy and sputter through 2nd gear. I changed the EGR valve and it still did it, changed the egr position sensor and it went away. Afterwards had a diagnostic run on it to fix any other bugs that were there. Runs like a champ now.

Drew
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